husaberg fs 570 "project"

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Ok than I remembered the numbers wrong and I think I currently run 110 links now with 41t rear and would need 112 if I buy 43 rear
No need to get bigger rear sprocket than 43t I also have 1 41t rear sprocket still new so I could go as short geared from 13/43 to as long 15/41 altough I do'nt think a 13 front would be necessary because with 14/43 it's already a wheelymonster :D
maybe for very tight kart tracks but I prefer bigger tracks/street :wink:
 
I googled almost an hour and it's amazing but you can't find specs of the amount of stock chain links on the fs570 and all the chain kits that are sold come with 118/120 links for the fs570 so it would be very strange if it's only 108 links stock...
It's to cold to go and count the links on my bike :mrgreen:
 
Me freshly anodised stuff. 8)


ano.jpg
 
Get VT2 or ERT2!

With 5" and 160 tire clearance becomes a issue with wide link chains. ERT2 will clear about anything without offsetting the wheel, and VT2 with most tires but not Michelin 16/63 without serious offset.
 
http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html
Looking at this chart all these 3 (vx2/vt2/ert2 ) chains have the same inner+outer plate thickness so should be ok (2.0/2.0)
vt2/vx2 have the same pin length and the ert2 should be 1.1mm smaller so clearance wise the difference is only 0.55mm
The vx2 has great wear resistance thats why I chose this one my bike is now almost through the second chain kit hope this one will last longer :)
 
Oh right it was indeed same pin length with VT2 and VX2. :oops:

I go always for least rolling resistance, but for some reason ERT2 lasted only less than 2k and then snapped. But I was stupid and cut it too short in the first place, then added 2 clip type master links. :(

Then I tried the VT2 and have liked it so far.
 
Yeah I did that with my stock chain (added 2 links to use 40 rear sprocket)
After that it wore out pretty fast the links I added/rivetted myself where never as smooth as the stock links.
 
I'm expecting my fmf header next week...
I got the forks out to get them rebuild and the schock for less preload.
I just emailed fp engineering hope he understands/reply's in english or my parts will go to bergos anyway.
Already installed the new bling bling chain/sprockets 8) :mrgreen:
 
Peter understands English just fine! I had over 40 mails with him and all of them in plain English. No communication problems.

My tuner most likely takes the head under work this week. Need to send my injector for flow test and clean up so I have good working injector to minimize any troubles when starting the bike for first time with new ECU. Need also alot of wire, superseal, sumitomo and amp plugs, harness tape and harness covers to make nice OEM style wirings.
 
I already got 2 reply's :)
But you say bergos is expensive...
Fp is +- 25% more for porting the head :mrgreen:
I need to know a few more things before deciding, to be good I need a different TB/ECU.... but I do'nt want to spend that kind of money because I was already pretty satisfied of my bike and I'm just an amateur + I do'nt make 1000's € in a month and it's getting way to expensive :cry: :twisted:
 
Well for sure you need the TB if you at least want more top end. It's the single biggest issue on the bike and limiting factor.

Head, TB, more compression, stock ECU tune via UST tool, full exhaust, air filter and seat mod = fun. :D

I will post my dyno results when the bike is ready and can compare to what it was when mostly stock (exhaust and filter). Get the 450 map flashed in the stock ECU by Peter. You get more revs (10500) and slightly more aggressive timing, and then tune the fueling on dyno.
 
TB is another 400€...
I already did:
-fmf full system
-dna air filter
-cut rad shrouds

-Now head
-Get it on dyno...
= +-1700€ 8O
SO + TB+open seat+ecu it's getting close to 3000€ I'm not that crazy :mrgreen:

I start with the head this year and will see results on dyno I can do TB next winter if I stil want to :idea:
 
What If I do'nt get the head done but do the TB 46mm mod from fp engineering+cut a hole through my seat and get it dyno'd...
Would I lose a lot of midrange...
This is the cheapest option and I know is best for top end but I'm affraid it will be way slower at lower revs...
And that's what I like about this bike just from low revs great acceleration out of corners :D
 
Mate, the engine is the sum of its parts, just sticking a big TB on it will not magically endow one part of your power band. Cut a hole in the seat and get the 450 map, if you go the big TB route you need the other engine components to compliment it, like the worked head and fat cam. I learned this the very expensive and hard way. If its a wailing top end you're after maybe a jap 250 is the answer :oops: :lol:
 
You can't put the 46mm TB on stock unworked head...wanna know why? There is over 2mm gap between the intake port and throttle body mating surface. :lol:

So even if you got the 46mm TB the head needs to be off, and at least the intake side ported to match the new throttle body without any gaps and disturbing flow. This can be done quite easily by itself with correct air tools and grinding bits. Then when it starts to get near valves and combustion chambers = leave it to the pros, if you don't know what to do. I have a pretty good idea what my tuner does to the intake side of the head, but combustion chamber and exhaust looks pretty challenging.

Don't know where you came up with the 1700€ tag for head and dyno. I maybe myself have somewhere around 2500€ in parts and thats without head being done yet and dyno tune, and I have "almost" everything this thing needs.

You'll be glad with the slight loss in the bottom end and with screaming mid/top. Can stay on the gears much longer, revs faster when you don't need that massive bottom end tractor torque to get out of corners and wheelie to the moons. But really, I have no idea how this motor really responds to all these mods. Maybe it won't loose any bottom end in the reality and starts to go like raped ape above 7-8k's. Who knows. :mrgreen:
 
berglsmerg said:
Mate, the engine is the sum of its parts, just sticking a big TB on it will not magically endow one part of your power band. Cut a hole in the seat and get the 450 map, if you go the big TB route you need the other engine components to compliment it, like the worked head and fat cam. I learned this the very expensive and hard way. If its a wailing top end you're after maybe a jap 250 is the answer :oops: :lol:
Click to expand...

^ This +1

If you get more compression, you need a cam. Same goes for the TB and vice versa. Compression alone without getting more air in the same or increased (more duration) time will only increase combustion pressures. Compression gives efficiency, but will also increase heat and pressure.

Now give it a wilder cam and you really start to make some noticeable difference. Add even more air by huge throttle and maintain ideal velocity in the whole rpm range = hang on tight. :mrgreen:

Tune fueling then for optimal AFR's and timing for precise combustion from idle to redline and you get sh*t tons of power.
 

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