husaberg fs 570 "project"

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my two cents to an interesting discussion: I don't have a Carillo rod - yet - but if I do get one, here would be why: Stock rod has seen some issues with the plating in the big end - which was probably early parts and not too many bikes so not a great issue - and then CP Carillo has a reputation of being as light and strong as possible for reasonable cost. IOW I'd be surprised if CP Carillo have trouble with the metallurgy or manufacturing as it SEEMS there MAY POSSIBLY have been hints of in some of the stockers. (Or it was the bearing cage? I speak of from a rather naive POV but try to keep up andunderstand.)

carillo rods also invariably look cool :) For us dandies this can matter :)
 
Yes looks nice to bad you can't see it in the engine lol.
And the price difference isn't that huge if I could succesfully trick customs using shipito :)
But ordering stock rod comes with bearing+pin for crank as a kit I don't think there is a part number to order the rod bearing-pin seperately i can't find it on oem partsites anyway...
I don' think re using the stuff is a good idea from a rod that has been used for +230 hours so that's something else to look into when ordering carillo
 
HusaBELGfs570 said:
Yes looks nice to bad you can't see it in the engine lol.
And the price difference isn't that huge if I could succesfully trick customs using shipito :)
But ordering stock rod comes with bearing+pin for crank as a kit I don't think there is a part number to order the rod bearing-pin seperately i can't find it on oem partsites anyway...
I don' think re using the stuff is a good idea from a rod that has been used for +230 hours so that's something else to look into when ordering carillo
Click to expand...

Have a look at pro-x for pin and bearing.
 
Well from my experance with a Carrillo for the 628, they come with an insert in the big end so the OD of the big end is bigger making it a heavier rod.
In the 628 it would require additional clearance to the cases to make it fit.
The Carrillo is back in its box:mad:
 
yes that experience sucked hey Spanner

they can make a lighter than std carburised rod without an insert but it requires strict instructions and specifying the maximum OD

A bloke over east is doing a 102mm x 82mm engine and was able to get a std carburised rod done from carillo.
 
Well that would suck pay more cash for a rod that does not fit and is heavy'r...
My main reason was also reliability because some rumors on the stock rod same reason I whent for a manual cct not that I heard anyone with a fs570 with problems with cct but did hear earley fe 570's with problems and ktm 530 who had the same cct fail maybe later 570's have improved design but better safe than sorry.
Same story for the rod maybe only an issue with first load of bikes maybe if you order one now the rods are troublefree
 
Can anyone confirm the correct paypal adress/acount from thumper racing???
I got this adres:
[email protected]
I already transfered over 2 days ago and got a reply that they didn't get the money....
I send back asking them to confirm this was the correct paypal email adres/acount but no reply back....
In the meantime I got the manual CCT for one small package costing me 84€ including shipping the custom ******** charged me over 30€:eek:
 
Lol it is correct how stupid I didn't notice that...
I got my money back and tryed to transfer again but currency whent up and since I have no creditcard the money I got back is not enough to pay for the rod now:banghead: I need 1.50$ more:p
So I have to transfer from my bank acount again wich takes a few working days or wait till currency goes back down:unsure:
 
Just measured the valve clearance manual says 0.10 to 0.15 for the inlets I measured 0.15 on both sides.
The exhaust valves 0.12 to 0.17 measured 0.19 on the right and 0.20 on the left....
I let the dealer check/change the clearance in the past But this would be to much....
I bought me some feeler gages so from now on I'l check them myself ;)
 
Already started dissambly off the engine
The piston looks great!!! no scratches at all on sidekskirts the cilinder also looks beatifull.
But the piston might be to tight to fit that I already bought...
I installed one ring seperately and only have 0.2 mm clearance in that ring probably to tight to fit (expanding when heated in the engine???)
The crank also feels very good.
Is there a special trick to get those "circlips" out of the piston on both sides of the wrist pin I am having some problems getting them off:p
 
I got them out one of em fell inside the engine underneath the crank:banghead:

Progress so far:


CCT and cam


The cylinder looks great:cool:


Top of the old piston


Side (both look this way no damage)


Inside the head


The new bigger ring installed in the cylinder (only 0.27mm clearance)



Reason why I started tearing it down...
I ocasionally had thes kind of bits on the magnets stll do'nt know where they came from my guess is from the gears....
 
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The bore and piston are looking great!

The metal you have recovered looks like a lot of gearbox trash and a bit o big end bearing cage silver plating.

Lets see whats next!
 
Yes the dealer was surprised everything looked brand new I whent there with my pistons and linert to check clearance.
The new piston is to tight fit....
 
Well I think over the 230+ hours I collected a reasonable amount of this metal some oil changes I had nothing on the magnet sometimes a little bit of this stuff...

I don't know what to do with my piston :/ 0.20 mm clearance between the rings when fitted inside cylinder....
I have to get the cylinder meusured if it's still perfectly round it would be a shame to bore it till correct clearance...
Maybe order another piston group 1:rolleyes:

Iasked the dealer If I could trade my new piston still with original packaging against a group one the answer was no:unsure:
 
The old ring vs new one 2 things I noticed old one is quite a bit shorter
2 the new ring has 50% more holes in it...
I got 0.42mm gap with the old ring installed in the liner and 0.27mm with the new ring...
 
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