FINALLY, a Headlight I can see with after dark

brian011952 · Nov 26, 2012

HusaBELGfs570 said:
this is how I set things up placed the "box" upside down because metal side gets hotter than plastic (the side where all the wire's are)

Ziptie's FTW :cheers: :mrgreen:

I don't like the way you mounted that box (the exciter box I think ) below the speedo. Here is my suggestion and what I did. Your lower triple clamp is not a solid piece. If you place your finger beside your fender and feel underneath the triple clamp, you'll find that it is a webbed design. I drilled a small hole in the front of the triple clamp on the right side (as you are sitting on the bike) of the bike between the fork tube and about where the edge of the fender bolts to the triple clamp. Prior to drilling this hole, I made sure I used the appropriate sized drill bit and then I tapped the hole and threaded it. Because the fork tube is forward of the center line a bit, i use approximately a 3/16 spacer behind the metal mounting tab on the exciter box and simply screwed the box to the lower triple clamp using a little loc-tite on the screw. The exciter box then stands straight up with the plug at the top of the box easily accessible, and since the metal is mounted to a metal surface, it also acts like a bit of a heat sink to keep things cool. My number plat/headlamp mounted like normal and cleared this installation with ease.

HusaBELGfs570 · Nov 26, 2012

I checked first to mount it on front of lower triple clamp but with my fender brace it's impossible or I have to trim a big piece of plastic off the fender brace or I have to put it that way that more than half off the thing is sticking out...

brian011952 · Nov 26, 2012

HusaBELGfs570 said:
I checked first to mount it on front of lower triple clamp but with my fender brace it's impossible or I have to trim a big piece of plastic off the fender brace or I have to put it that way that more than half off the thing is sticking out...

Well, that stinks. It mounted perfect with my bike's number plate. Bummer. I'd try to find a better spot to mount it, that looks like it might vibrate and bounce around a lot there.

HusaBELGfs570 · Nov 26, 2012

because of you I went back to the shed and cut it loose again and tryed everything...
Even took front fender of to get a good look where I could drill/mount but it's a no go I looked to put it the same way as the rectifier but on the other side off the frame=not enough clearance it's realy impossible to put i anywhere else than where it was so I put it back the same way It's realy steady though!
The only thing that worry's me is the heat thing but I realy did my best to get all the cables out of the way and it isn't touching any

I started stripping the 3 wires for the switch and bike wires are blue/white/yellow/black (ground)
Vs HD bright black ground blue high beam white low beam.
If I cut the wire's to connect with hdbright kit can I get rid of the part that plugs into the headlight wich the stock bulb was connected to?

brian011952 · Nov 26, 2012

My kit came with three spade pins that I was able to connect to the wires and then remove and replace the stock spade pins so the factory plug could be used. I didn't cut anything.

HusaBELGfs570 · Nov 27, 2012

Yes the light is working well didn't need to cut indeed.
But the 3 wire's that you have to connect to standart plug do'nt realy click in securely so shoved them in as far as I could and put some electrical tape around it hope everything holds together.

maKe · Dec 1, 2012

Ugghh I really hate the headlight output of my bike! For some reason I don't want to go as far as I did, when I upgraded my gixxer low beam, but it really paid off in the end and looked the business!

maKe · Dec 4, 2012

Awww crappp. Have looked and measured the headlight assembly and it seems to be impossible to fit any kind projector inside it.

Not enough space anywhere length and width wise, so it seems that I just need to run hid bulb in it and hopefully it will give decent output and light pattern. Ba20d bulb is out of question as the place where I intend to get my retrofit stuff don't stock them. H4 based bulb seems to fit quite simply with minimal modifications done to the reflector housing insert and bulb tabs, where the ba20d socket and bulb goes in.

Now the biggest problem is where to mount the ballast. :?

Ballast I'm intending to use is 90mm long x 75mm wide x 20mm thick. Made equivalent sized wood piece and tried to figure a mounting place for it. Can't seem to find any good solution yet. The opposite side on frame where the rectifier is mounted seemed ideal, but as I don't have forks installed and my fork tubes are at anodizer I can't measure the clearance between rectifier and fork tube. Can someone take measures in mm with the handlebar moved from side to side? Did not measure the rectifier thickness but it looks to be at least 30-35mm.

Other place I tried was to put it on top of the tank on flat surface under the seat. But I couldn't put the seat back on anymore so that was no use.

Heres the setup I was thinking to run:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=21742

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=22087

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=14176

Got my gsxr retrofit stuff from there last time, including the Lexus rx-afs projector and the customer service was spot on.

pegscraper · Dec 4, 2012

My HID option using the OE headlight housing...........

maKe · Dec 4, 2012

What are the dimensions of that ballast? Clearance issues with the mask on?

I'd like to secure my ballast on a surface where it can't move a lot, and have sufficient space to keep heat under control.

pegscraper · Dec 4, 2012

The ballast is 7.5 x 6.0 x 1.6cm. The starter is about 2.5cm thick. The mask just fits back on with a 4-5mm gap between the ballast and the bike's instrument binnacle. I haven't found heat to be an issue. I had the unit switched on for around 30mins in the garage (with the unit on the bench) and the headlight housing did get hot but didn't suffer any damage. Out on the road/trail it's even less of an issue due to the cooling effect of the air flow, the ballast itself barely gets warm. The kit being a generic one it didn't come with a new rubber boot so I had to butcher the OE boot to fit and re-sealed it with silicone. Very pleased with the improvement over the OE light.

One issue I have found is if you start the engine with the headlight lit the voltage drop kills it and it won't immediately switch back on. You have to switch it off and wait for around 30 secs and then it will work OK. It's just a case of remembering to kill the light before you try and start/restart the engine.

maKe · Dec 5, 2012

Thats why you should run a new harness using relay to draw current straight from battery to the ballast. My gsxr survived starting this way, and measured voltage was higher than OE connection.

I think I need to bite the bullet soon...

FINALLY, a Headlight I can see with after dark

Help Support Husaberg:

brian011952

HusaBELGfs570

brian011952

HusaBELGfs570

brian011952

HusaBELGfs570

maKe

maKe

pegscraper

maKe

pegscraper

maKe

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions