Buying a new FE570? Known issues, problems & common mods

MR fapoosa I want you to rotate your throttle housing counter clockwise 90 deg
and try to ride your bike.,then ask your dad how wise he is.Thanks Skred

skred said:

MR fapoosa I want you to rotate your throttle housing counter clockwise 90 deg
and try to ride your bike.,then ask your dad how wise he is.Thanks Skred

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Ok, so when I do this do I then ride with my hand in the normal spot or rotated 90° too?

Are you pulling my leg Skred?

akshun said:

When I first bought my 570 I noticed the water hoses hanging right out there and thought they would be wiped out easily. Most of my mates mentioned them the first time they saw my bike also. I looked up all the mainstream bash plates available here and noticed that none of them bothered to protect these hoses either so I have stuck with the original plastic one for now. For awhile I was going to buy a bash plate and modify it to protect them. I have since noticed that I have never hooked these hoses up on anything on the trails so far and even after dropping my bike a few times ( we all know it happens!) they have not been damaged at all! Im wondering if they just appear to stick out more because of the unique shape of the newer bergs? I love the mods you have fashioned for your ride, keep thinking outside the box!

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Here's what I bought and use: Works GREAT !! And you don't get the engine sound echo like with aluminum bash plates: Link: http://www.elineaccessories.com/ecommer ... plate.html

Fajoopsa said:

Are you pulling my leg Skred?

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Your intelligence has again exceeded it's seemingly meagre boundaries. Do you know the difference between 90 degrees and 180 degrees? Obviously not, maybe we should explain it in terms of hands on a clock so you can understand? :lol:

If you took some of the advice offered by people in this thread you wouldn't need to take your bike to the bike shop to get any work done and you might actually learn something about setting up and maintaining your bike. Half the guys in the bike shop don't know their arse from their elbow, maybe you could ask for a job?

Your ego will, of course, prevent any of this happening :bounce3:

Ok, you've go to be joking. Where is the logic?

I thought going right around would demonstrate that it still makes no difference but apparently not. Here is a new 90º pic to make you happy. Hand still in the same spot.
Should i post one with it rotated forward to the brake??
1º or 90º or 180º makes no difference. 90º only gets in the way of the starter...

Also, i do all my maintenance because i can.
Hows the clutch bleeding going Moto?

I'll try one last time, mostly because you're funny and this is amusing :mrgreen:

Two examples:

1. The throttle is more or less vertical (as in your first picture).
2. The throttle assmebly is rotated forward until it hits the break master cylinder. It will be different to everyone as to where they prefer it but for nostalgic puposes we'll call this the 70 degree position. Remember, all of the adjustments are typically made moving forward, not backawards.

With the throttle closed your hand is in the same position either way, on this I agree with you. The point is, it's what happens when you open the throttle.

In position 1 when you have the throttle 50% open your hand is rotated futher towards the ground and further away from the brake lever and closed throttle position. In position 2, when you rotate the throttle to the 50% position your hand will be somewhere near where it is in the picture, because have rotated your hand more at the start (more forward of the normal braking position to open the throttle). This now means that for a certain throttle range your hand is in a more comfortable position to operate the break and get a good grip on the bars.

With my throttle set-up like this I can comfortable have be controlling the throttle between 10/15%-70% throttle with my finger still on the brake lever.You try having your finger on the brake lever with your throttle open 70% of it's travel in your current throttle position.

It's only a minor adjustment but when adjusted to suit your prefernce it makes a decent difference. It's like having the bars too far back, levers at the wrong height etc., you can still ride fine but it's less comfortable and not optimum when you're getting your freak on.

Good chat, we should do it more

PS: My bike was fully repaired under warranty cheers (when the clutch housing gave out also and it had a full top/bottom end rebuild) 8)

Hmmmm, I seriously do not get your logic. You've got to be having a joke as no one can be that stupid.

There is nothing on the grip that says you have to put your hand in a certain position to start opening the throttle.
My pics show that no matter where the throttle is your hand can go where ever it wants.
I'll post another one soon showing different hand positions with out moving the housing.
Maybe that might make more sense.
Or is you glove glued to the throttle before you start?

[attachment=0:u7qvuoys]Phone 093.jpg[/attachment:u7qvuoys]MR fapoosa I was that stupid about twisting the throttle forward and I stand corrected.I did gain a psychcological edge by twisting it that did help me,as we all know moto is 2% mind and 98% conditioning.I was joking about the Fatpoosa and your dad.You have the ability to kill a fly with a sledge hammer and I like that trait because I have it.Can you please list the mods to your bike so I will know what to do .Thanks Skred

Thanks Skred,
That was more of a H-bomb than a sledgehammer.

[attachment=0:apit59yw]berg2.JPG[/attachment:apit59yw]

My only advise to all you Berg owners is to pull out the wheels, swingarm, headset etc and pack the bearings with extra grease. Then check every nut & bolt and use the correct Loctite to put it back together.
I'm guessing there must be a grease/Loctite shortage in Austria at the moment.

FE570 countershaft sprocket and countershaft splines

just did the countershaft seal at 7000 miles and with a cush drive hub. just a little wear on the splines but did a bit of reading and you can have rapid wear on these (and splitting the cases to replace the shaft).

if doing a lot of miles and/or fair amount of road riding, evidence suggests a cush drive hub is a very good idea. below is an FE570 after 12000 miles with 50% road use and no cush drive hub.



read more about it here about halfway down the page and all the responses: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639366&page=212

i'm not personally making any recommendations other than the cush drive hub, which i've found makes a big difference even offroad and believe must help reduce transmission wear and tear. but the following are suggested tips from other berg riders for road use and/or high mileage:

- run a cush drive hub
- make sure your chain is never too tight
- don't use sprockets with that are harder than the shaft itself
- keep a constant eye on sprocket/spline wear and replace the front sprocket frequently
- dual purpose tires might increase wear (no knobs means no flex which provides a bit of cushioning)
- a dirt tricks washer or bearing locker may hold the sprocket tighter and lessen wear
- use a high temperature grease on the splines.

below is a dual-sported KTM 530 with no cush drive hub at 7000 miles (essentially the same shaft and spline at a berg):

original idea of this thread was to keep updating the first post with all the tips suggested but couldn't do that after a few weeks. then subsequent posts got lost in the bizarre yet highly entertaining Great rotated Throttle Housing Debate. i've updated the list and posted on advrider here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=902781

hope no one minds, it's just in can keep editing it there to keep all the collective wisdom (or lack thereof) in one spot. :mrgreen:

moto said:

...
With my throttle set-up like this I can comfortable have be controlling the throttle between 10/15%-70% throttle with my finger still on the brake lever.You try having your finger on the brake lever with your throttle open 70% of it's travel in your current throttle position.
...

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Ok... I like to use more throttle when I have my motard kit on compared to my enduro kit. Then I just grab my throttle more from the top, which bring the throttle handle into a more comfortable position when I use higher revs. No need to turn the throttle handle for that, unless you use the "husaberg" logo as some kind of reference?

Sorry for keeping this OT, but the idea to turn a round shape around whould change the throttle angle is strange. Only your initial hand position do that.




To be OT. Let's see if I can add a few mods I done:

I took away the engine vent hose that goes to the airbox. It's routed that way so fumes get burned up instead of released (emission rules). I then plugged the airbox hole and run a garden hose from the engine vent down to the skidplate. I also installed a small check valve up high to avoid dirt or water to find it's way up as I sometimes go deep in water with my bike.

I cut away the metal mesh on the airfilter frame. One experienced guy told me that when I give throttle on my 570 the oiled filter is sucked into that mesh and the mesh get temporarily restricted by filteroil. That's why your 570 might die quickly when you give it a quick rev. When the metal mesh is gone quick throttle responses will not have restricted air problem. I took it away and I haven't seen any problems with it so why not.

I also bought a 390/450 version of the airbox as they have that nice funnel which helps to keep the dirt away when I change airfilter. A friend of me also say that that airbox will give some extra hp. Maybe, I don't know.

I just did the clutch-mod where I took away the judder spring with friction disk and installed a normal full size disk instead. Now the clutch engages better and it's a much better ride imo! (I'm looking for a cush hub instead as the forces increases on the drive train and gearbox with this mod).

The foot brake lever can work its way into the clutch cover over time OR in a crash. I took away the inner teeth on the brake lever as they are never in use and will only carve their way into the clutch cover. Now I have a nice round shape there.

I cut up my fork protectors on the back side so I can take them off completely when I clean the bike. They work just as good.

With a soldering iron I made small holes on the tank shrouds on the small edges around the airfilter to get more and fresh cold air in. If not most air is sucked in from the hole at the back. That air is warm from the exhaust.

I also changed out my head lamp with two vision-x lamps and installed a IQ170 controller box so I could adjust the intensity http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17223 Comparison pictures will come after the summer as it's too light during the night now.

+ a few more I can't remember now or have already been mentioned in this thread (I made the subframe into a tank as an example, which is one reason to take away the small ball in the tank cap).


Most mods are taken from this very forum, so thank you fellow husaberg.orgs!

I found a couple of little issues on my recent service of my 2012 FE 570, the main wiring loom was rubbing through which was caused buy the black plate on the underside of the fuel tank section were the fuel pump is, this plate had sharp square edges and the wiring loom was not slack enough in that area, also found that the fuel hose from the fuel pump was poorly positioned and had been rubbing/melting on the header pipe (lucky find), bottom steering head bearing had all but zero grease

They stop stalling and lurching off the bottom after they are derestricted. My FS runs 100 percent better after having this done. Be sure it is also set to race map 4.

MEDOGROCKET said:

I found a couple of little issues on my recent service of my 2012 FE 570, the main wiring loom was rubbing through which was caused buy the black plate on the underside of the fuel tank section were the fuel pump is, this plate had sharp square edges and the wiring loom was not slack enough in that area, also found that the fuel hose from the fuel pump was poorly positioned and had been rubbing/melting on the header pipe (lucky find), bottom steering head bearing had all but zero grease

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Yes true about that plate. The bolt for the pump assembly can be quite sharp too. I filed the head of the one in the corner where the loom goes round. That one can easily cut through the cables.

kneehurts said:

They stop stalling and lurching off the bottom after they are derestricted. My FS runs 100 percent better after having this done. Be sure it is also set to race map 4.

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My dealer apparently has no idea what I'm talking about when I tell him I'd like to remap my FS 570 to "Euro Enduro map" or "Race map 4", or even the infamous "Akrapovic map"

Can anyone give more detailed information of what ECU maps are available, where dealers can usually get (download?) them, etc?

Thanks!

I kind of went through this same thing when trying to get the Euro Competition map installed on my FE450.
He said he has quite a few different maps but he only knows what 3 of them are (I guess those might of had names because he called them U.S., Euro Restricted and Euro) the rest just had numbers so unless you know the map number or your dealer is BIG into Husabergs, good luck.

He didn't lead me to believe there was any downloading from Husaberg, it was more like their computer had all the maps already installed.

Hey, great information here in this thread!

I have a problem with my 2011 FE570, when getting hot it stops. I was thinking that the inline fuel filter might be the issue. Starting to look at the bike tonight but I can´t locate the inline filter. Is it inside the fuel tank?

/Fredrik

Nah.

After the quick disconnect outside the tank, where the last bit of hose goes into the throttle body, the inline filter sits in the hose between it.