MX and enduro are sooooooo different! I wouldn't run hand guards on an MX bike but I wouldn't be without them on my berg! Like most, they have saved my hands countless times! I have found that It's the small hits you don't notice, like branch whips, that will hurt your hands and cause bar slips. Great thread, loads of info!
Buying a new FE570? Known issues, problems & common mods
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Fajoopsa said:
:twisted: yep, keen to hear how that works. clocked up 1400km on the berg now and i'm in love. bugger all this stuff about legalizing gay unions, can we legalize marrying your bike? i love my berg!
but i am getting ****** about the crap rear rego plate/indicators extension. i'm not sure if you blokes in the US have it, but down under we can get booked if the rear mudguard extension doesn't extend far enough to cover a 45 degree angle from the rear axle.
husaberg have come up with highly f.....d design that craps up the moment you go off road, disintegrating the whole setup. i trimmed it as much as i could and still keep it legal, but every time i hit a decent jump it grabbed the rego plate and bent it over. c'mon, husaberg. the fe570 is a great light weight min adventure bike, why not get serious with the street legal **** so we dont get booked the cops for replacing with it with illegal "tail tidys"? here endeth the rant.
Im from South Australia and I did not know about that tail extension rule. Its the first thing I remove from my bikes as I have never had one last longer than one ride! I have my plate bolted directly under my tail light and I havent even been running those huge indicators either. I havent been stopped yet. I am going to fit a pair of slim LED style indicators shortly as the hand signals in traffic are annoying! Maybe I will have a rethink about my extension aswell?
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akshun said:
it all depends on how fussy the cops want to be. generally in southeast queensland it is heavily enforced on the mt glorious road ride where there are regular deaths/major crashes by riders. $76 and one point from memory. i like to ride up there every now and then so want to get it working properly so the rear wheel isn't bending my number plate every time i hit a major bump.
also i'm not sure if the relevant legislation is queensland-specific or australia wide. with indicators, there's also some rule about how far they need to be apart, might be 18cm from memory? again depends on the individual cop as to whether they'd book you for this.
I guess Im fairly lucky as I live rural and we don't see the law very often. They sometimes sit at the end of the trails on long weekends and book the city jerks that come and ride their MXers for not having rego or licences. We usually avoid riding at those times anyway cos those same guys get in our way while they try and learn how to ride, ha ha!
Fajoopsa said:
Did I say it makes the bike less twitchy? No. Did I say better control of the throttle? Yes. When you get on a bike do you adjust the position of the brake and clutch levers to suit your riding position/style (standing, seated etc.)? Why is better when you do that? Because it's more comfortable in the position YOU ride in.
The brake or clutch doesn't work any better mechanically but a) it's easier for you to control when in the correct position on the bars relative to your body position and b) when in a comfortable position you may actually be able to exert more force, easier, when adjusted correctly. It's called mechanical advantage (of your muscles, not your brake lever).
The same goes for the throttle, if you have to have your wrist bent in an awkward position to get 40%+ throttle you lose comfortable grip on the bike making control more difficult.
You may just find the 'twitch' is easier to control when the throttle and other controls are adjusted properly. In any event, it's a free and easy suggestion to try before running off and spending money on something that shouldn't be necessary 99% of the time.
If you put as much effort into properly reading someone's post as you do into making uneducated and mis-informed remarks you might have realised that for yourself.
moto said:Fajoopsa said:
Did I say it makes the bike less twitchy? No. Did I say better control of the throttle? Yes. When you get on a bike do you adjust the position of the brake and clutch levers to suit your riding position/style (standing, seated etc.)? Why is better when you do that? Because it's more comfortable in the position YOU ride in.
The brake or clutch doesn't work any better mechanically but a) it's easier for you to control when in the correct position on the bars relative to your body position and b) when in a comfortable position you may actually be able to exert more force, easier, when adjusted correctly. It's called mechanical advantage (of your muscles, not your brake lever).
The same goes for the throttle, if you have to have your wrist bent in an awkward position to get 40%+ throttle you lose comfortable grip on the bike making control more difficult.
You may just find the 'twitch' is easier to control when the throttle and other controls are adjusted properly. In any event, it's a free and easy suggestion to try before running off and spending money on something that shouldn't be necessary 99% of the time.
If you put as much effort into properly reading someone's post as you do into making uneducated and mis-informed remarks you might have realised that for yourself.
I wasn't trying to be rude or condescending, I was merely making a comment open for discussion as it is an open forum. There is no need for personal comment about my "lack of education" on the topic.
I understand adjusting the brake and clutch but rotating the throttle cant make any difference?
Even if the cables came out the bottom. you're still putting your hand in the same spot relative to the bar and having to twist the same amount.
Twist the throttle 10 degree and you get 10 degree of rotation no matter what.
To get to 50% throttle will still require X amount of twist and full throttle will still require Y amount of twist.
Does anyone else have an opinion on this?
PS: I re-read my post and there was no mention of bike handling. Only a response to your comment on "TWITCHY Throttle" and an example of angular rotation.
Well, when someone's first post in a forum, and in particular an informative thread designed to help people, is a 2 line wonder not contributing anything to the post, what do you expect?
I agree, moving the throttle 10 degrees is moving it 10 degrees. However, it's the position of your hand when moving it that 10 degrees that matters. Taking it to the exteme, imagine the throttle being 90 degrees out of it's usual alignment. Now ride your bike. How easy is it to control the throttle? You are still only moving the same 10 degrees but the position relative to your hand is what matters.
I have found, along with a couple of mates who have tried that the throttle, in general, is easier to operate through it's full range when it's rotated farther forward. The better control provided by the having the the throttle at this position enables me to control the 'twitch' better.
I'm saying it as it helped me, so, it's not diifcult to coceive it might help others. At the end of the day it's free and easy to try and might save someone the time, effort and money in not buying additional parts like throttle cams.
Until you try it, you wont know...........
I agree, moving the throttle 10 degrees is moving it 10 degrees. However, it's the position of your hand when moving it that 10 degrees that matters. Taking it to the exteme, imagine the throttle being 90 degrees out of it's usual alignment. Now ride your bike. How easy is it to control the throttle? You are still only moving the same 10 degrees but the position relative to your hand is what matters.
I have found, along with a couple of mates who have tried that the throttle, in general, is easier to operate through it's full range when it's rotated farther forward. The better control provided by the having the the throttle at this position enables me to control the 'twitch' better.
I'm saying it as it helped me, so, it's not diifcult to coceive it might help others. At the end of the day it's free and easy to try and might save someone the time, effort and money in not buying additional parts like throttle cams.
Until you try it, you wont know...........
Fair enough.
Sounds like a placebo effect to me.
Do me a favour and before you go for a ride next spin the throttle housing on the bar back towards you and then place your hand on the grip in your normal riding position.
You'll see it's all in your head.
It's just a round tube that converts rotary motion into linear cable movement no matter where it is on the bar.
Sounds like a placebo effect to me.
Do me a favour and before you go for a ride next spin the throttle housing on the bar back towards you and then place your hand on the grip in your normal riding position.
You'll see it's all in your head.
It's just a round tube that converts rotary motion into linear cable movement no matter where it is on the bar.
Just like a brake lever is a piece of metal converting a linear force to apply the brakes. Doesn't work so well when it's not at the right height for your hands though does it?
Ever wondered why the top of the list for causes of arm pump is often incorrect set-up of your controls. You're only looking at half the equation, the other half is the fleshy bit on the seat.
It's also why short pull throttles were invented years ago.
Ever wondered why the top of the list for causes of arm pump is often incorrect set-up of your controls. You're only looking at half the equation, the other half is the fleshy bit on the seat.
It's also why short pull throttles were invented years ago.
Are we talking brake setup or your claimed ability to cure a twitchy throttle by just rotating the throttle housing to a different position on the bar???
It's a round grip...
Your hand goes on it where it feels natural. Even if the cables come out underneath or on top.
Think about it logically.
It's a round grip...
Your hand goes on it where it feels natural. Even if the cables come out underneath or on top.
Think about it logically.
Fajoopsa said:
I felt the need to try and relate to other bar controls as you seem to having trouble undertsanding the basic principles of physics and bike set-up.
Do what you want, I've made my point, if you don't agree with it or don't like it...good for you.
Throttle Housing
I'm confused too. I'm all for adapting the bike's ergos and performance to suit the rider to make it comfortable and less fatiguing, and have been doing so with my own fleet for many many years. However, seemingly like others, I can't figure out how rotating the throttle housing on the bars can make any difference to the way the throttle functions. It no doubt effects cable routing and and thumb access to any switch mounted on the throttle housing. Maybe the cable was tight in the original position and not moving freely/fully?
Still, I've yet to ride an LDC, so maybe its something I just don't understand yet?
Usefull thread by the way, and perhaps a good basis for a Doc update?
Steve
I'm confused too. I'm all for adapting the bike's ergos and performance to suit the rider to make it comfortable and less fatiguing, and have been doing so with my own fleet for many many years. However, seemingly like others, I can't figure out how rotating the throttle housing on the bars can make any difference to the way the throttle functions. It no doubt effects cable routing and and thumb access to any switch mounted on the throttle housing. Maybe the cable was tight in the original position and not moving freely/fully?
Still, I've yet to ride an LDC, so maybe its something I just don't understand yet?
Usefull thread by the way, and perhaps a good basis for a Doc update?
Steve
And perhaps if the grip is asymmetrical in some way then that could make a difference I suppose?
And Davo, the last time I rode a new Berg was a 650, and look what happened then :mrgreen:
A guy had a play on my DR 650 after getting off his KTM 640 Adv the other week and is now spoilt too, he sent me an email and included the following;"I shouldn't have ridden your bike as now it's my baseline comparison and it's now almost impossible to throw a leg over my 640"
But I digress from the topic :roll:
Steve
And Davo, the last time I rode a new Berg was a 650, and look what happened then :mrgreen:
A guy had a play on my DR 650 after getting off his KTM 640 Adv the other week and is now spoilt too, he sent me an email and included the following;"I shouldn't have ridden your bike as now it's my baseline comparison and it's now almost impossible to throw a leg over my 640"
But I digress from the topic :roll:
Steve
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Fajoopsa said:
I "know" the throttle stop is at a fixed point so it should not matter where the housing is rotated to. I "think" what is being said is you are inclined to position the V between the index finger and thumb in between the section of the housing where the cables exit. If that is the case it would be beneficial to rotate to most comfortable position.
My .02 (and I won't give change)
mikec
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apologies on posting a non-throttle housing position-related topic. 
muddy ride coming up tomorrow, and i've had trouble sourcing the 1/8 inch tubing for the weephole mod. so just cut up an old 40 liter chlorine container and zip-tied it to the bike just for tomorrow's ride.
earlier someone mentioned that the radiator hoses are kind of hanging out there like dog's balls waiting to be snagged on stuff. has anyone actually had this happen? i thought while i was as it i'd mess around with this piece of plastic in a way that protected the radiator hoses (see pic below) and also avoid crud being thrown up at the weephole. if it is a potential issue i might try to work do a decent job of this and make something permanent. i got the heat gun on to the plastic so i could bend it back a little at the top so crud isn't pouring off the front fender down inside the plastic bashplate.
next up i needed to extend the headlight shroud upward. being freakishly tall, i've pushed the bars up and forward with an alloy plate bolted to the triple clamps, but this left the wiring and underside of the speedo exposed. so i cut out some more chlorine container and just bolted it to the headlight shroud. just trying this out and will make something better if i like it. but went for a blat down the freeway this afternoon and i was surprised at how much wind it deflected. it also provides a bit of protection for the gps so seems to be a handy el cheapo mod for adventure riding.
not real pretty and kind of reminds me of the pope for some reason. but what the hell, total cost was $5 in bolts and nuts, $3 of white vinyl and one old chlorine container.
muddy ride coming up tomorrow, and i've had trouble sourcing the 1/8 inch tubing for the weephole mod. so just cut up an old 40 liter chlorine container and zip-tied it to the bike just for tomorrow's ride.
earlier someone mentioned that the radiator hoses are kind of hanging out there like dog's balls waiting to be snagged on stuff. has anyone actually had this happen? i thought while i was as it i'd mess around with this piece of plastic in a way that protected the radiator hoses (see pic below) and also avoid crud being thrown up at the weephole. if it is a potential issue i might try to work do a decent job of this and make something permanent. i got the heat gun on to the plastic so i could bend it back a little at the top so crud isn't pouring off the front fender down inside the plastic bashplate.
next up i needed to extend the headlight shroud upward. being freakishly tall, i've pushed the bars up and forward with an alloy plate bolted to the triple clamps, but this left the wiring and underside of the speedo exposed. so i cut out some more chlorine container and just bolted it to the headlight shroud. just trying this out and will make something better if i like it. but went for a blat down the freeway this afternoon and i was surprised at how much wind it deflected. it also provides a bit of protection for the gps so seems to be a handy el cheapo mod for adventure riding.
not real pretty and kind of reminds me of the pope for some reason. but what the hell, total cost was $5 in bolts and nuts, $3 of white vinyl and one old chlorine container.
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