Anyone can go out and buy expensive accessories but it takes pure genius to come up with alternatives made from household refuse that cost very little. Keep up the good work.
Yep! Its definitely to do with hand position over throttle position. The only way it can differ is if you have some sort of throttle system that changes the rate of throttle compared to the twist movement. Theoretically you could sit on the front guard and twist the throttle backwards with your left hand and still get the same result. Now that would be interesting!!!!
When I first bought my 570 I noticed the water hoses hanging right out there and thought they would be wiped out easily. Most of my mates mentioned them the first time they saw my bike also. I looked up all the mainstream bash plates available here and noticed that none of them bothered to protect these hoses either so I have stuck with the original plastic one for now. For awhile I was going to buy a bash plate and modify it to protect them. I have since noticed that I have never hooked these hoses up on anything on the trails so far and even after dropping my bike a few times ( we all know it happens!) they have not been damaged at all! Im wondering if they just appear to stick out more because of the unique shape of the newer bergs? I love the mods you have fashioned for your ride, keep thinking outside the box!
hoosie5seventy,
I'm not sure how you can ride that bike cos in that pic it looks like you've got your throttle mounted upside down. My cables come out the top and it's pretty comfy.
Bahahahaha!!!
Sorry I had to.
Fajoopsa.
I'm not sure how you can ride that bike cos in that pic it looks like you've got your throttle mounted upside down. My cables come out the top and it's pretty comfy.
Bahahahaha!!!
Sorry I had to.
Fajoopsa.
Real shame the way a few guys have to spoil a good thread, this thread now reads like something from DBW, funny though!!
Back on topic please
Back on topic please
back on topic. as a quick review, sifting through the past few pages i thought these were noteworthy.
CUSH DRIVE HUB
The Cush rear wheels from KTM 640's and older KTMs bolt right on.
STEERING STOP BOLTS
usually these can be screwed a lot further in that the factory default for a better turning circle.
FLIMSY REAR FENDER EXTENSION
revisiting the ridiculously flimsy rear fender extension, i tried remounting the indicators and rego plate, then trimming quite a bit off the bottom (i have to leave a fair bit on though or we get booked by the cops around here). the rear tire still catches it on big jumps and threatens to chew it up again. i just read on another thread that one guy got a heat gun to his, bent it out then held it while it cooled. tried this and it seems to have done the job,went out for a gnarly ride yesterday and it didn't catch on the rear tire. there were no big jumps though, so not sure if it's a definite fix as yet. another guy said he took out the existing screws that hold the tail section in, and replaced them with actual nuts and long bolts, reckons this held it more securely?
STEERING TWITCHY AT SPEED?
quite a few riders complain about the bergs feeling like they are on the verge of tank slapping at 60mph plus. default factory position on the front forks seems to be 5mm above the top of the triple clamps. i made them flush with the clamps and she feels more stable at highway speeds now, but still turns well in the gnarly stuff. worth trying before forking out big bucks for a steering damper. short riders can always increase rear sag to get the same effect.
OPTIONS FOR CHEAP LUGGAGE & EXTRA FUEL
i've already posted a thread for this on stuff i've found and asking for feedback on heavier loads.
http://husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16318
CUSH DRIVE HUB
The Cush rear wheels from KTM 640's and older KTMs bolt right on.
STEERING STOP BOLTS
usually these can be screwed a lot further in that the factory default for a better turning circle.
FLIMSY REAR FENDER EXTENSION
revisiting the ridiculously flimsy rear fender extension, i tried remounting the indicators and rego plate, then trimming quite a bit off the bottom (i have to leave a fair bit on though or we get booked by the cops around here). the rear tire still catches it on big jumps and threatens to chew it up again. i just read on another thread that one guy got a heat gun to his, bent it out then held it while it cooled. tried this and it seems to have done the job,went out for a gnarly ride yesterday and it didn't catch on the rear tire. there were no big jumps though, so not sure if it's a definite fix as yet. another guy said he took out the existing screws that hold the tail section in, and replaced them with actual nuts and long bolts, reckons this held it more securely?
STEERING TWITCHY AT SPEED?
quite a few riders complain about the bergs feeling like they are on the verge of tank slapping at 60mph plus. default factory position on the front forks seems to be 5mm above the top of the triple clamps. i made them flush with the clamps and she feels more stable at highway speeds now, but still turns well in the gnarly stuff. worth trying before forking out big bucks for a steering damper. short riders can always increase rear sag to get the same effect.
OPTIONS FOR CHEAP LUGGAGE & EXTRA FUEL
i've already posted a thread for this on stuff i've found and asking for feedback on heavier loads.
http://husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16318
some other points not on this thread yet, courtesy of ruger. i've just cut and pasted the relevant bits from a post he made:
SAFETY RECALL ON HANDLEBAR CLAMPS
If your clamps do not have a single punch mark just aft of the front bolt, the manufacturer says you have an unsafe motorcycle and that you should not ride it until the replacement clamps are installed.
GEARING
Unless you are using your 570 for relatively high speed work in open country, the factory gearing is preposerously tall. Lowering the gearing is all but a must if you are using the bike as an enduro machine (as it was intended) and not a desert racer.
INSUFFICIENT GREASE ON AIR FILTER LIP
I will bet you a six-pack of your favorite beer that there is insufficient sealing grease on the lip of the air filter.
EXHAUST
The factory exhaust can is THE element that causes your bike to run at much less than its potential, to run hot, and to cook your right thigh. You can make any number of modifications to the guts of the factory muffler (as I have done) and you will make only marginal improvements to the problem. Do yourself a favor and buy an aftermarket can (I bought an FMF 4.1 and am delighted with it with the reduced noice tail and spark arrester), and have your dealer install the performance intake map. With the greatly reduced backpressure in the exhaust system, the bike will tend to run lean with the standard map.
EMISSION GEAR
Depending upon the emission laws of your state, give consideration to the removal of the emission control junk that's hung on your bike. Bet you didn't know that there is an evaporative control canister under the right rear fender cover that is plumbed into the rocker cover on the engine and the fuel cap.
SAFETY RECALL ON HANDLEBAR CLAMPS
If your clamps do not have a single punch mark just aft of the front bolt, the manufacturer says you have an unsafe motorcycle and that you should not ride it until the replacement clamps are installed.
GEARING
Unless you are using your 570 for relatively high speed work in open country, the factory gearing is preposerously tall. Lowering the gearing is all but a must if you are using the bike as an enduro machine (as it was intended) and not a desert racer.
INSUFFICIENT GREASE ON AIR FILTER LIP
I will bet you a six-pack of your favorite beer that there is insufficient sealing grease on the lip of the air filter.
EXHAUST
The factory exhaust can is THE element that causes your bike to run at much less than its potential, to run hot, and to cook your right thigh. You can make any number of modifications to the guts of the factory muffler (as I have done) and you will make only marginal improvements to the problem. Do yourself a favor and buy an aftermarket can (I bought an FMF 4.1 and am delighted with it with the reduced noice tail and spark arrester), and have your dealer install the performance intake map. With the greatly reduced backpressure in the exhaust system, the bike will tend to run lean with the standard map.
EMISSION GEAR
Depending upon the emission laws of your state, give consideration to the removal of the emission control junk that's hung on your bike. Bet you didn't know that there is an evaporative control canister under the right rear fender cover that is plumbed into the rocker cover on the engine and the fuel cap.
hoosie5seventy said:
Wouldn't the only way of lowering the standard gearing be to go to a 12t on the front?
Fajoopsa said:
The 2011's came with 14/44. I went to a 13 front and ultimately to a 50 rear. I think for dual sport something around 14/49 and enduro work 13/48 to 51 depending on terrain
Given how easily the chain will eat into the top front edge of the swinger, I'd stay away from lowering the front sprocket count if you can, and add teeth to the rear if you're trying to lower gearing.
MEDOGROCKET said:
Are you serious? Do want this forum to have any credibility?
When people suggest things like rotating throttles or lowering gearing without stating what their standard gearing is i think It's OK to ask questions.
Imagine how many people have thought "**** i better lower my gearing to a 12t because this forum said so" or "My bike is too powerful i better spin the throttle around"
I read somewhere someone on here had to send their bike back to the dealer 1 hour and 45min away to get their clutch bled. Not sure I'd be taking their advice...
I guess we shouldn't believe OR question anything on here...
The first thing I did to my fs570 was rotate the throttle forward to get my wrist in a more comfortable position when the bike was on the pipe.Im 50 years old rode motocross my whole life and I know what works.Try it Skred
the debate on twisting the throttle forward happened on page 2. just start another thread for debating it.
Fair enough...
I guess if you didn't want a public debate on the topic you shouldn't of asked the question on a public forum.
The lesson I get from this is:
If you want really bad info then look it up on a forum like this.
If you want the correct info ask your local bike shop.
I guess if you didn't want a public debate on the topic you shouldn't of asked the question on a public forum.
The lesson I get from this is:
If you want really bad info then look it up on a forum like this.
If you want the correct info ask your local bike shop.
Fajoopsa said:
Yep, the apprentice knows all................ This has got to be wind up, so no more comment from me on this apparent fallacy.
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