Help Support Husaberg:
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
nice Dr_C
framework is looking fantastic
thanks for taking the time to make the videos :thumb:
Contiman ..my wife says my rod is too long already so im good for now ..
framework is looking fantastic
thanks for taking the time to make the videos :thumb:
Contiman ..my wife says my rod is too long already so im good for now ..
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2003
- Messages
- 955
- Location
- Sweden
The taller conrod called for a headpacker, and that was the reason for me to produce a new frame. Now my machinist wizard "Mossbergs Mekaniska" has, as allways, responded well to my emailed CAD-files. The weekend will hopefully be spent with finishing the manufacturing of a cylinder sleeve, making some fairing brackets and tidying the electric wiring.
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
very nice liner Dr_C
what is the OD of the big end on those nice rods ?
what is the OD of the big end on those nice rods ?
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2003
- Messages
- 955
- Location
- Sweden
Thanks! I don't recall, but I believe they were a tad larger than OEM. So I will have to shave a mm off the cases. Not desireble, but as you know, design and tuning consists of compromises...
Sent from my so called smart phone with tiny keyboard and annoying auto spell check.
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
sounds good, that will open up the cases into the gearbox won't it?
FWIW .. .you probably noticed already, the JBS liner I have has 2 cut outs on the bottom the reasoning was that this made it easier to hone.
not sure if it is even a problem but if it were an issue I reckon putting the cutout in after honing would be a better way to look at it.
FWIW .. .you probably noticed already, the JBS liner I have has 2 cut outs on the bottom the reasoning was that this made it easier to hone.
not sure if it is even a problem but if it were an issue I reckon putting the cutout in after honing would be a better way to look at it.
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2003
- Messages
- 955
- Location
- Sweden
We'll see if it opens up. If it's just a small hole I think there will still be enough pumping effect to help scavenge the crank case.
Good point with the cutouts! As my liner is 10 mm higher up, I didn't have to cut out more than some 10 mm. The guy honing it didn't complain about anything else than the steel material. I haven't picked up the liner yet (pick up line..?) so I'll see what it looks like tomorrow.
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2003
- Messages
- 955
- Location
- Sweden
I noticed that there was at least 2mm clearance to the 2nd gear. So I decided to add some metal on the gearbox side where I need to take away some for the new rod. The rod walks clear, but only by a couple of tenths. I suppose a 0,5mm clearance will do?
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
nice idea Dr_C
you could grind a small cutting groove on the big end of the rod and it would sort itself out
i think 0.3 - 0.5mm would be enough for the gear, it can machine its way into the aluminium all by itself LOL
for the rod I have no idea, 0.5mm sounds OK but oem clearance on the 82mm stroke is about 1mm right? and 2mm for the 80mm stroke.
Im sure the whole engine bends and flexes like crazy but at 1mm clearance we never heard of anyone finding marks on the cases so 1mm is prolly too big.
liner looks fantastic, what is your plan for keeping the water contained at the bottom ? some bog like the dodgy bushmechanic?
Thomas let me know he used 3 grooves 2mm wide. 0.5mm deep with 100mm diam O rings 1mm diam x section
you could grind a small cutting groove on the big end of the rod and it would sort itself out
i think 0.3 - 0.5mm would be enough for the gear, it can machine its way into the aluminium all by itself LOL
for the rod I have no idea, 0.5mm sounds OK but oem clearance on the 82mm stroke is about 1mm right? and 2mm for the 80mm stroke.
Im sure the whole engine bends and flexes like crazy but at 1mm clearance we never heard of anyone finding marks on the cases so 1mm is prolly too big.
liner looks fantastic, what is your plan for keeping the water contained at the bottom ? some bog like the dodgy bushmechanic?
Thomas let me know he used 3 grooves 2mm wide. 0.5mm deep with 100mm diam O rings 1mm diam x section
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2003
- Messages
- 955
- Location
- Sweden
You're right! The space problem only lasts until the first red line revving. Hehe!
My thought was using bog, goo, the poo from a monkey or an old mans wack off. But thin o-rings sound much more appealing and hygienic. Is that what you are using now?
My thought was using bog, goo, the poo from a monkey or an old mans wack off. But thin o-rings sound much more appealing and hygienic. Is that what you are using now?
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
I use monkey poo bog, old mans whackoff is too expensive
3bond 1207B its very good specs say its better than some o rings
in addition to a small film between the liner and cases there has to be a huge amount of it in a bead fillet a the liner and water jacket join, say 8-10mm diam bead.
it has worked very well for me no leaks in nearly 200 hrs and 4-5 gearbox rebuilds LOL
it does make things difficult on disassembly I made a small wooden rod to push on the liner through the water pump to case hole (inside the water jacket) in order to get the liner out
and you have to wait till the poo hardens before taking the bike down to the shops for some milk
so if i were doing a lot of rebuilds I would put the orings in.
3bond 1207B its very good specs say its better than some o rings
in addition to a small film between the liner and cases there has to be a huge amount of it in a bead fillet a the liner and water jacket join, say 8-10mm diam bead.
it has worked very well for me no leaks in nearly 200 hrs and 4-5 gearbox rebuilds LOL
it does make things difficult on disassembly I made a small wooden rod to push on the liner through the water pump to case hole (inside the water jacket) in order to get the liner out
and you have to wait till the poo hardens before taking the bike down to the shops for some milk
so if i were doing a lot of rebuilds I would put the orings in.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2003
- Messages
- 955
- Location
- Sweden
Hm. 1,0mm o-rings seem difficult to find. Unless you glue one of your own... There are 1,5mm o-rings in nitril or viton available. I'm currently having checked how shallow the groove can be. The liner is 2,5mm thick at this location. The stresses are not very high down there. With 0,5mm groove it would leave 1,5mm steel mtrl in the 105mm sleeve, right?
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
sounds about right, Ill check lateron
edit; yes that it
approx 1.4 - 1.5
edit; yes that it
approx 1.4 - 1.5
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
yes that it
approx 1.4 - 1.5
I think contiman bored out the cases a small amount to make thick orings work?
his picture of the work in the 700 thread isn't showing up
approx 1.4 - 1.5
I think contiman bored out the cases a small amount to make thick orings work?
his picture of the work in the 700 thread isn't showing up
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
