Thanks, Tourist! Yes, it is fun to ride a flickable bike with a barking thumper! That brutal grunt and engine brake really keeps you on your toes!That thing must be an absolute thrill to ride.
Looks killer, too.
More pics! More videos! More everything!
Edit: Please!
Thanks, Damon!
I know I am
Thanks, ZAGA! I think the wifey has a lot of pending suggestions... My machinist also talked about putting a tractor together with my 27 litre Meteor V12. I hope he forgets it.Fantastic work Matts !!!
Now the only problem is what are you going to do with all the free time that your gone a have
ZAGA
The liner is the design of an *****. But it can still be salvaged and used...yes single cylinder thumper starter motor very worthy of drooling
interesting second liner in the background, I see you've got the widowmaker onto the ignition side of the crank as well
No, no slipper clutch! This engine has less compression ratio and seems easier on the engine brake! Not an issue at the moment.Do you run a slipper clutch Dr C?
It also helps reduce loads on gears etc, when changing down gears at least.
What is the minimum axial clearance for the valves? Radial clearance may have some effect on flow at low lifts when the piston is close I would think.
You may have to let the young lad do the riding, getting to old
I have the former machinist for Folan 50km from home, so new custom pins are within reach. The hardening takes a couple of days though. I will add some 1/1000 mm to increase the press fit, as the cheeks have been apart a couple of times. Anyone interested in pins BTW?time to make your own big end pin ? or buy a wheelbarrow full of firecrackers
the Pro-X ktm 530 pin is heavier than ours so I suppose it is also a bit stiffer, don't know about its material modulus though.
can get different number of rollers depending on their diam and a peek coated cage,
i suppose a life of some 400 hrs due to the cage coating instead of 200 from silver plating is outside your big end "service" life
due to 85hp explosion forces being the main cause of wear.
spanner knows more about the bearings.
What I did notice when splitting the crank was that the rod had began to wear on the inside of one of the cheeks. I assemblied the crank without any thrust washers (no space for that) and with appr. 0,5 mm axial play for the big end. Hopefully that is also a secondary failure caused by the heat. Plausible cause?
Oh Dear that is disappointing
If you PM me your address I will post a PEEK coated cage and 22 rollers, last one I have got.
I found at 100hrs the silver plating has gone and the steel cage is cutting into the rod end, still feels alright as far as play is concerned but you will notice partials in the oil.
What is your piston to bore clearance? Looks like the skirt was producing some heat. Does the other side of the cylinder look the same?
I am running a JBS high volume water pump impeller and have made a water pump cover that has a large radius inlet, for better flow. I also spent some time smoothing out the steps in the transfer ports and put a radius on the hole where it enters the jacket.
I noticed the same wear pattern on the cheek of one of my flywheels and put it down to the crank splaying.
Did you check the run out before you pressed it apart?
I would be weary for running the motor with any parts that are heaver than stock, especially reciprocating, piston, and rod.
Cheers spanner
