Billet cylinder head

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tourist said:
That thing must be an absolute thrill to ride.

Looks killer, too.

More pics! More videos! More everything!

Edit: Please! :)
Click to expand...
Thanks, Tourist! Yes, it is fun to ride a flickable bike with a barking thumper! That brutal grunt and engine brake really keeps you on your toes!

[emoji1]
 
awesome Dr_C !

good to have something to sink your teeth into, be sorted out in no time...

so whats the next project ? bulk beer and firecrackers .. or maybe billet cases and a one piece crank?
 
Dr_C said:
Thanks, Tourist! Yes, it is fun to ride a flickable bike with a barking thumper! That brutal grunt and engine brake really keeps you on your toes!

[emoji1]
Click to expand...

I wonder if you could do an anti engine breaking setup with the megasquirt?

That would be cool!

Nice job by the way! Very much looking forward to any more information you throw our way.
 
Last edited:
bushmechanic said:
awesome Video Matts

fantastic machine!

my favourite bit is still the coffee and tea percolating starter vent/filter
Click to expand...
Thanks, Damon!
Vast quantaties of coffee has been consumed during this build, so I felt the necessity of incorporating a machine into the bike. Well, you finding the major interest in my venting can, is pretty much the story of my life. When in the pits, everybody passing my tent stops to look at my "amazing" starter motor. Old farts go all misty eyed, and doesn't give my Supermono even a glance...
 
Fantastic work Matts !!!

Now the only problem is what are you going to do with all the free time that your gone a have :D after the work is done ;)

:cool:
ZAGA
 
yes single cylinder thumper starter motor very worthy of drooling

interesting second liner in the background, I see you've got the widowmaker onto the ignition side of the crank as well :D
 
Do you run a slipper clutch Dr C?
It also helps reduce loads on gears etc, when changing down gears at least.

What is the minimum axial clearance for the valves? Radial clearance may have some effect on flow at low lifts when the piston is close I would think.

You may have to let the young lad do the riding, getting to old:p I know I am:D
 
zaga said:
Fantastic work Matts !!!

Now the only problem is what are you going to do with all the free time that your gone a have :D after the work is done ;)

:cool:
ZAGA
Click to expand...
Thanks, ZAGA! I think the wifey has a lot of pending suggestions... My machinist also talked about putting a tractor together with my 27 litre Meteor V12. I hope he forgets it.

bushmechanic said:
yes single cylinder thumper starter motor very worthy of drooling

interesting second liner in the background, I see you've got the widowmaker onto the ignition side of the crank as well :D
Click to expand...
The liner is the design of an idiot. But it can still be salvaged and used...
Well, I have no use for a flywheel of the same inertia as a DVD-disc, so I just skipped it! :cool:

spanner said:
Do you run a slipper clutch Dr C?
It also helps reduce loads on gears etc, when changing down gears at least.

What is the minimum axial clearance for the valves? Radial clearance may have some effect on flow at low lifts when the piston is close I would think.

You may have to let the young lad do the riding, getting to old:p I know I am:D
Click to expand...
No, no slipper clutch! This engine has less compression ratio and seems easier on the engine brake! Not an issue at the moment.
I try to achieve min 2,0-2,5 mm axial clearance on the exhaust valves and 1,5-2,0 mm on the inlet valves. Radial clearance is necessary to cope with the valve stem play against the guide.
Well, Spanner, I have still riders my age or older, in front of me in the result list, so I will not give up! :devil: Tomorrow is another practise session at a local track, so I'm determined to ramp up! But when the lad steps up, I'm more than willing to let him! :happy:
 
Overheated? Well... some.

Poor flow in the cooling system caused the liner, piston, camshafts and conrod bearings to seize. I will fix that broken water temp gauge now... The log files showed the temperature development during the race. Not funny. Possibly an air lock in the 50mm higher positioned cooling hose. My committment is often pushed to its limits... Today I'm machining a new liner.

e10c9b120a8eab55d48dad9f107e9f51.jpg
 
Thanks for the "condolences"!
The camshafts are on repair and expected back the coming week. New cooler cores are coming in from Pace Products in England. Today I machined a new liner, so it's off to get honed the coming week. I've got a new piston and rod already, so that's no tight spot. Next worry is a new big end and roller bearing. I would have liked a big end material with higher e-modulus, but maybe a std will have to do. What's the latest tips on big end pin and bearing? I'm using the 35mm pin.
 
time to make your own big end pin ? or buy a wheelbarrow full of firecrackers

the Pro-X ktm 530 pin is heavier than ours so I suppose it is also a bit stiffer, don't know about its material modulus though.

can get different number of rollers depending on their diam and a peek coated cage,
i suppose a life of some 400 hrs due to the cage coating instead of 200 from silver plating is outside your big end "service" life
due to 85hp explosion forces being the main cause of wear. :)

spanner knows more about the bearings.
 
bushmechanic said:
time to make your own big end pin ? or buy a wheelbarrow full of firecrackers

the Pro-X ktm 530 pin is heavier than ours so I suppose it is also a bit stiffer, don't know about its material modulus though.

can get different number of rollers depending on their diam and a peek coated cage,
i suppose a life of some 400 hrs due to the cage coating instead of 200 from silver plating is outside your big end "service" life
due to 85hp explosion forces being the main cause of wear. :)

spanner knows more about the bearings.
Click to expand...
I have the former machinist for Folan 50km from home, so new custom pins are within reach. The hardening takes a couple of days though. I will add some 1/1000 mm to increase the press fit, as the cheeks have been apart a couple of times. Anyone interested in pins BTW?

As I'm not easy on the parts, the life length of +100h seems distant. ;) What I did notice when splitting the crank was that the rod had began to wear on the inside of one of the cheeks. I assemblied the crank without any thrust washers (no space for that) and with appr. 0,5 mm axial play for the big end. Hopefully that is also a secondary failure caused by the heat. Plausible cause?
 
Oh Dear that is disappointing:(

If you PM me your address I will post a PEEK coated cage and 22 rollers, last one I have got.

I found at 100hrs the silver plating has gone and the steel cage is cutting into the rod end, still feels alright as far as play is concerned but you will notice partials in the oil.

What is your piston to bore clearance? Looks like the skirt was producing some heat. Does the other side of the cylinder look the same?

I am running a JBS high volume water pump impeller and have made a water pump cover that has a large radius inlet, for better flow. I also spent some time smoothing out the steps in the transfer ports and put a radius on the hole where it enters the jacket.

I noticed the same wear pattern on the cheek of one of my flywheels and put it down to the crank splaying.
Did you check the run out before you pressed it apart?
I would be weary for running the motor with any parts that are heaver than stock, especially reciprocating, piston, and rod.

Cheers spanner
 
that's interesting ! I found the same wear inside the crank with even 0.55mm big end axial play, the factory spec is 0.4.

since then I aim for 0.7 - 0.8mm and have not seen any odd marks, quick look on KTMtalk found thew same spec used for 35mm big ends

the prox piston i got seemed a tad large to me so i heated the liner and piston to 400F and checked if the piston still dropped through freely,

easy test although you would think the piston would in practice be hotter than the liner.

if the pins are higher modulus and lighter than OEM im definitely interested
 
spanner said:
Oh Dear that is disappointing:(

If you PM me your address I will post a PEEK coated cage and 22 rollers, last one I have got.

I found at 100hrs the silver plating has gone and the steel cage is cutting into the rod end, still feels alright as far as play is concerned but you will notice partials in the oil.

What is your piston to bore clearance? Looks like the skirt was producing some heat. Does the other side of the cylinder look the same?

I am running a JBS high volume water pump impeller and have made a water pump cover that has a large radius inlet, for better flow. I also spent some time smoothing out the steps in the transfer ports and put a radius on the hole where it enters the jacket.

I noticed the same wear pattern on the cheek of one of my flywheels and put it down to the crank splaying.
Did you check the run out before you pressed it apart?
I would be weary for running the motor with any parts that are heaver than stock, especially reciprocating, piston, and rod.

Cheers spanner
Click to expand...

Thanks, Spanner!
For some reason, I cannot send PM´s! Please send me an email to [email protected] and I'll respond with address!

My piston to bore clearance was 0,10 mm. Both skirts were worn, so I guess lubrication was not the major culprit. Larger volume pump would be interesting! Still... cooling was working OK until I did the last mods (head spacer and another positioning of the coolant hose). Run out was appr. 0,08-0,09 mm when I split it. One weld of the pin had cracked. Piston and rod are not lighter than OEM...

I tested the cooling after the race (standing still) and the temperature rose quickly (the coolers felt warm), but it didn't drop when I put pressurized air through the coolers. This is pointing in the direction of some obstruction in the system and/or bad flow from the pump. Trust me when I say I will not attempt the tracks again without having FULL control over water and oil flow!
 
Email sent.

the prox piston i got seemed a tad large to me so i heated the liner and piston to 400F and checked if the piston still dropped through freely,

easy test although you would think the piston would in practice be hotter than the liner.
Click to expand...

I was reading about the Britten motorcycle, they had problems with the piston sticking ( when John Britten would not warm the bike thoroughly before riding )
Nicasil coating helped the solve the problem.

I am thinking 0.1 would be OK with a Nicasil coating, 0.127mm for uncoated,
IMO.
 

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