70 degree valve check/adjustment
- Thread starter RichX
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What the heck are you talking about Ruger? It's a two-beer job if you're taking your time.
I also have an auto-clutch (rekluse). Take the stator cover off and use a wrench to turn over the motor. I then place a rag between the stator cover and stator so the magnetic force doesn't snap the cover back every time you want to advance the motor. Otherwise you risk tearing the gasket there. (don't ask me how I know).
I also have an auto-clutch (rekluse). Take the stator cover off and use a wrench to turn over the motor. I then place a rag between the stator cover and stator so the magnetic force doesn't snap the cover back every time you want to advance the motor. Otherwise you risk tearing the gasket there. (don't ask me how I know).
What am I talking about"
"Drain the coolant"
"Remove both radiators"
"Remove the chain tensioner"
"Insert a wire to hold the timeing chain from falling down inside the motor"
"Gently pull the camshaft out of the bearing seats"
"Remove the timing chain"
Etc.
I've been gapping valves in both motorcycles and trucks for over 30 years, but this is absolutely rediculous. It's an ignorant design.
"Drain the coolant"
"Remove both radiators"
"Remove the chain tensioner"
"Insert a wire to hold the timeing chain from falling down inside the motor"
"Gently pull the camshaft out of the bearing seats"
"Remove the timing chain"
Etc.
I've been gapping valves in both motorcycles and trucks for over 30 years, but this is absolutely rediculous. It's an ignorant design.
I agree that removing the tank is tougher than most bikes. And removing the radiators is a bother. But the rest is much easier than my Honda CRF.
With the 70 degree motor, wiring the timing chain may not be necessary, but I would rather be safe than sorry. And you don't have to remove the chain. Removing and resetting the chain tensioner is easier than on the Honda too. At least in MHO.
I really only have 3 complaints about working on the Berg;
1) the tank is harder to take off and put on than most bikes
2) removing the radiators to check the valves
3) the battery compartment is way too compact
Everything else seems pretty well thought out to me. The 70 degree motor just changes things.
With the 70 degree motor, wiring the timing chain may not be necessary, but I would rather be safe than sorry. And you don't have to remove the chain. Removing and resetting the chain tensioner is easier than on the Honda too. At least in MHO.
I really only have 3 complaints about working on the Berg;
1) the tank is harder to take off and put on than most bikes
2) removing the radiators to check the valves
3) the battery compartment is way too compact
Everything else seems pretty well thought out to me. The 70 degree motor just changes things.
Ruger said:
It's no air-cooled BMW, but find me another high-performance four-stroke single that's dissimilar. For someone as experienced as you this is a snap. It probably took me longer to type this reply on my iPhone than the valve check procedure.
But hey, if you don want to deal with it, get something like a WR450. My buddy has 600 hours and only two valve checks. No adjustment needed yet either. Mind you, he has to remove his subframe to rejet...
Yeah, there's that incidental "remove the fuel tank" thing, too. Just a few bolt there too, right?
There ought to be a sticker on this bike that says:
"DISASSEMBLE FOR SERVICE"
I bought the 'Berg to ride it, not dink with it.
Don't mind me, I'm a PAC. (Professional American Curmudgeon)
:angry:
There ought to be a sticker on this bike that says:
"DISASSEMBLE FOR SERVICE"
I bought the 'Berg to ride it, not dink with it.
Don't mind me, I'm a PAC. (Professional American Curmudgeon)
:angry:
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2010
- Messages
- 282
- Location
- Yorkshire UK
Garrison said:
Only if you have hands like a baby! Personally I don't find removing the tank that a big deal which is just as well 'cos there's no way I can get my banana fingers in there with it still in place Lol!
smithi said:
Thanks smithi and welcome to the site.
I have to thank DaleEO for his input before I did my valves, he is a champion. :bow: =D>
Thanks also to Eticket, Berglsmerg, Garrison and DeeG for all their input. Hope I didn't forget to mention anyone?
I have had a few good rides after doing my valves myself and nothing has broken. The only thing I did extra was to install a radiator clamp around the breather hose on top of the Valve Cover as it seemed a bit loose.
UHE is a great site! :thumb:
I did the same thing - put a small clamp around the base of the hose on the valve cover. Gives peace of mind, I would hate for that hose to pop off. One thing I have noticed with the design of the 'Berg - the valve cover and throttle body area seem to gather a good amount of dirt over time. It is part of the washing ritual to spray cleaner in there, hose off (no pressure washer) and then blast with a leaf blower to dry. People see me drying my entire bike with a leaf blower and probably think I am nuts, but it makes me feel warm and fuzzy :twisted:
Just checked the valves on my 390, bike's now covered about 140 hours, clearances as follows:
Inlet - Right: 0.12mm
Inlet - Left: 0.12mm
Exhaust - Right: 0.15mm
Exhaust - Left: 0.16mm
Nothing to change as you can see. :cheers:
I removed the tank and the radiator mounting bolts as I needed to give the bike a good clean after 2 days of trailring last weekend in Wales. Accessing the top right valve cover bolt was tricky with the rads still attached but still do-able. Measuring the clearances was easy enough, I think I could have changed shims without removing anything else from the bike.
I didn't know about the TDC marks, so I just removed the plug, put the bike in to 6th gear and from the left side of the bike, rotated the rear wheel until the inlet valves opened and then closed. I then moved to the right side of the bike, rotated the rear wheel a little more and then stuck a long, thin screwdriver down the plug hole until it hit the piston before very slowly rotating the rear wheel again. As the piston rose up the cylinder bore, I felt the screwdriver sliding through my fingers, when it stopped moving, the piston was at TDC give or take a a couple of degrees either way. Once the clearances were double checked, the cam cover was replaced. I still need to re-fit the tank etc and replace the spark plug and air filter.
Good to know that the Buell shims fit the Berg's, I believe that all KTM's and Berg's must use the same shims as using the Buell shims was a trick I knew from owining a Super Enduro.
Inlet - Right: 0.12mm
Inlet - Left: 0.12mm
Exhaust - Right: 0.15mm
Exhaust - Left: 0.16mm
Nothing to change as you can see. :cheers:
I removed the tank and the radiator mounting bolts as I needed to give the bike a good clean after 2 days of trailring last weekend in Wales. Accessing the top right valve cover bolt was tricky with the rads still attached but still do-able. Measuring the clearances was easy enough, I think I could have changed shims without removing anything else from the bike.
I didn't know about the TDC marks, so I just removed the plug, put the bike in to 6th gear and from the left side of the bike, rotated the rear wheel until the inlet valves opened and then closed. I then moved to the right side of the bike, rotated the rear wheel a little more and then stuck a long, thin screwdriver down the plug hole until it hit the piston before very slowly rotating the rear wheel again. As the piston rose up the cylinder bore, I felt the screwdriver sliding through my fingers, when it stopped moving, the piston was at TDC give or take a a couple of degrees either way. Once the clearances were double checked, the cam cover was replaced. I still need to re-fit the tank etc and replace the spark plug and air filter.
Good to know that the Buell shims fit the Berg's, I believe that all KTM's and Berg's must use the same shims as using the Buell shims was a trick I knew from owining a Super Enduro.
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
- Messages
- 282
I just did my second valve adjust today. There was no movement on the intakes, that was good. The exhaust were at .12 and.11mm. Both a little on the tight side, so I decided to adjust. .280 shims were in the bike, so I changed to the .275 shims. Now, I'm at .16MM across the board. It was just time consuming, not really a hard job. The pictures on this site were very helpfull.
61h on the 570 and decided to check again.
Intake 0.15mm / 0.16mm
Exhaust 0.15mm / 0.17mm or tight 0.18mm
One intake and one exhaust is off only one hundredth on the loose side. Should I continue to ride or adjust them?
To me it sounds so small difference and at least they are not on the tight side I guess I'm ok?
Looked both rocker arms too and exhaust rocker has over 0.5mm axial play, axial play and slight marring/scoring marks on the roller bearing. Spins smoothly and not felt by finger nail. Intake rocker seems spotless, but it also has some axial play in the rocker and roller. Less than exhaust but maybe few tenths tho.
Should I be concerned?
Intake 0.15mm / 0.16mm
Exhaust 0.15mm / 0.17mm or tight 0.18mm
One intake and one exhaust is off only one hundredth on the loose side. Should I continue to ride or adjust them?
To me it sounds so small difference and at least they are not on the tight side I guess I'm ok?
Looked both rocker arms too and exhaust rocker has over 0.5mm axial play, axial play and slight marring/scoring marks on the roller bearing. Spins smoothly and not felt by finger nail. Intake rocker seems spotless, but it also has some axial play in the rocker and roller. Less than exhaust but maybe few tenths tho.
Should I be concerned?
Hi all,
my first post,
I have been unfortunate with a cracked plug and failed fuel pump in 2.5 hours of use and now I have another problem. I haven’t checked valve spec which is actually not a common thing to do in these parts. If it starts fine, sounds fine and runs fine… it is fine!
I am at 15hrs and now have a problem whereby the bike when warmed up will not idle for more than a minute. It switches of. It will restart immediately thereafter, for a minute then die. Fuel pump is running, it revs out fine, doesn’t back fire (so I don’t think it’s the plug). It ran perfectly fine when I last rode it 3 weeks ago
Could out of spec valves cause this situation?
It struggles when bliping the throttle slightly, meaning it doesn’t take rev like it normally does.
2010 390
Advise appreciated
my first post,
I have been unfortunate with a cracked plug and failed fuel pump in 2.5 hours of use and now I have another problem. I haven’t checked valve spec which is actually not a common thing to do in these parts. If it starts fine, sounds fine and runs fine… it is fine!
I am at 15hrs and now have a problem whereby the bike when warmed up will not idle for more than a minute. It switches of. It will restart immediately thereafter, for a minute then die. Fuel pump is running, it revs out fine, doesn’t back fire (so I don’t think it’s the plug). It ran perfectly fine when I last rode it 3 weeks ago
Could out of spec valves cause this situation?
It struggles when bliping the throttle slightly, meaning it doesn’t take rev like it normally does.
2010 390
Advise appreciated
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2011
- Messages
- 29
- Location
- UK
When I checked my valves at 15hrs all four were on the tight side, two were pretty much closed; bike still ran absoloubtly fine.
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