70 degree valve check/adjustment

Pictures from when the Valve Cover is removed? Or pictures from the start with all the fiddley bits removing tanks and radiators etc... ?

If you could post pictures from the start that would be great, but i'll take anything you've got to help.

Cheers

I also would appreciate someone video'ing or taking photos of the valve check/adjustment procedure.

I have a 2010 FE390 and am about to install a 'Dirt Tricks Cam Chain tensioner', will this make the valve check/adjustment any different, same with this installed, rather than the OEM tensioner?

Thanks in advance
Fizz

I started to check the valves yesterday. Will post as I go. Never done it before so feel free to correct me.
I am going by what I learnt from DaleEO’s posts and the Workshop manual.

Part 1 - Getting ready to remove the Fuel Tank

IMHO you need a metric 1/4 inch drive and metric 3/8 inch drive socket set to get to the valves.
You will also need a Torx Bit T45.
Bash Plate Off and give the bike a good wash. Hose as best you can up around the Valve Cover Area.

Remove the side Spoilers from the fuel tank. 3 x Bolts in each side plus a Bolt at the bottom front of each Spolier. The 3 x Bolts in the side are like self tappers that screw into the tank.
Air Filter out.
Clean rag in top of Throttle Body to keep dust out.
Loosen the Muffler by removing the spring that holds it to the mid pipe. Remove the 2 x Bolts that hold the Muffler. Access the Bolts through the holes in the Rear Fender. From underneath, twist the Muffler clockwise a ¼ turn to miss the subframe. It should just wriggle out after that.
Remove the Black Upper Subframe part by removing the 6 x Torx Bit Bolts. Just pull the front left part out a little to completely remove it.

Picture of Black Upper Subframe and Muffler removed:


There are 3 x Bolts that hold the Subframe on. 2 on the left and 1 on the right hand side.
Loosen the right hand Side Bolt.
Loosen the bottom left hand Side Bolt.
Remove the top left hand side Bolt.
You should be able to push the Subframe back a little, this will give you access to remove the tank. I found it difficult to push the Subframe back so took all 3 Bolts out.
Pictures of the Bolt holes on the Subframe:



Notice I took the rear Fender off and the Number Plate Carrier. I am working to install my 70 Degree Racing Subframe Fuel Tank at the same time. You don't have to remove these parts normally. One thing I noted when removing the Rear Fender (after removing the bolts) is you have to use a screw driver to lever it up out of the Subframe. The lugs you can see in the next picture lock the Rear Fender to the Subframe. I just loosely screwed the screws back in so I did not loose them.



Will post a bit more soon.

Part 2 - Removing the Fuel Tank.

With the Subframe laid back a little, you are ready to remove the Fuel Tank.
Remove the Air Line from the Fuel Cap. I removed it from where it connects to the Bike Frame.
Remove the Electrical connector on the Fuel Tank near where the Air Filter is. That connector is power to the Fuel Pump inside the Fuel Tank.
From the left hand side of the bike, just near the Throttle Body is the Fuel Line. It has a quick-disconnect fitting that you should be able to spot. You need to make sure this fitting is clean, use compressed air to blow all dirt away.
Find the metal tab on the quick-disconnect fitting and press it in. Pull the Fuel Line apart at the same time.
I then wrapped a rag around the connectors to keep dirt out. This is important as the injector seems to clog easy on these bikes.
Picture of the Fuel line on the engine and the Fuel line and quick-disconnect fitting on the Fuel tank Fuel Line:



Remove the Bolt at the top of the Fuel Tank just under the wire that retains the Air Filter.
Picture here:


The Tank should lift free now. As you lift it push the black rubber Air Box back free from the tank. It stays in place.

Fuel Tank free:


As you remove the Fuel Tank disconnect the electrical connector at the back of the Fuel Tank. That connector is the Low Fuel light circuit.
Picture of the connector below:


Here is the Fuel Tank Removed:

Part 3 - Remove Radiators.

I thought this job might be a bit difficult but the Radiators came off real easy.

Drain the Coolant via the little Bolt in the Water Pump Cover. Once the Radiator Cap is removed the coolant comes out fast. You would be pretty clever not to spill any:


I used an empty 1.5L (might have been a 2L) Coke Bottle and got most of it:


Remove the Horn Wires.
Loosen the Top Radiator Clamps. They are easy to get to which is good:


Loosen the bottom Radiator Clamp on the Left Radiator.

Remove the 2 x Bolts that hold the Radiator each side. With the Radiator Guards I have I had to use a long extension bar on my ¼ inch drive socket to reach the Radiator Bolts. The same 2 Bolts hold the Radiator Guard and the Radiator.
Remove the left Radiator:


I just wired the Right Radiator away from the Valve Cover with a coat-hanger:


That is all I have done. More tomorrow if I get time.

That's brilliant, much appreciated.

Part 4 - Check Valves

OK I am out of my league now, I am not a mechanic. :confused2:

Try and clean as much as you can with a rag and compressed air around the Valve Cover and above it. I think if I was to do this again I would wash the bike a second time with the tank off.

KTM Feeler Gauges:
59029041100


Remove the 4 Bolts holding the Valve Cover.
You need to lever the hose off that is connected to the top of the Valve Cover. It is not held on with anything and comes off easy with the help of a screw driver.


Bike in 6th gear and spin the wheel till the drill mark on the head lines up with the drill mark on the Cam Gear (Ladybergs tip, thanks). I did this without taking the spark plug out, but you are supposed to take it out. You can see the 2 marks in this picture:



Here is a picture of the inlet valves. They are the 2 Valves on the top of the head.


Here is a picture of the exhaust valves. They are the 2 Valves towards the bottom of the head.
Note, in the photo you can see the Oil Strainer in between the Valve Springs. This is the Oil Strainer that goes in the Banjo Bolt in the Head that you need to clean when changing your oil.


There should be a gap in between the Valves and the Rocker Arm as shown below.

The Gap should be measured at 20 Degrees Celsius:
INLET = between 0.10mm and 0.15mm
EXHAUST = between 0.12mm and 0.17mm

So here is a good inlet Valve within spec. The 0.10mm fits and the 0.12mm does not fit.




Mine Valves measured:
At 11 Degrees C (It's bloody cold at Galston today)
Left Side Inlet 0.10mm Feeler Gauge Fitted and 0.12mm did not fit. Within Spec
Right Side Inlet 0.12mm Feeler Gauge Fitted and 0.15mm did not fit. Within Spec
Left Side Exhaust 0.10mm Feeler Gauge Fitted and 0.12mm did not fit. OUT OF SPEC
Right Side Exhaust 0.12mm Feeler Gauge Fitted and 0.15mm did not fit. Within Spec

So my Left Side Exhaust is tight by 0.02mm. Do I need to change my Shim?

turn the shim over and measure it agian ?

Good stuff, thanks for taking the time to do the pictures Davo, very helpful.

DaleEO said:

The original procedure was to place the motor in the correct position, measure the clearances, and then if needed, pull the rocker shafts to gain access to the shims.
Then reinstall rocker shafts and re check measurements.
This eliminates having to mess with the cam, or cam chain adjuster. The latter procedure has you pulling the cam chain tensioner, and cam.

Click to expand...

Hey Dale, I have been looking at this method of pulling the Rocker Shaft to adjust my clearance as I agree it looks way easier than messing with the Camshaft etc... Why would they have changed the procedure? I am a little worried bearings or something else might drop out when I pull the Rocker. Hope you can advise?

rwhite148f said:

That's brilliant, much appreciated.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the comment rwite148f it is a bit of work taking all those photos and writing it up.
The work so far has not been too difficult which surprises me. I am a little nervous about the next step and am tossing up whether to leave the Exhaust a little tight (0.02mm) and keep riding. I was thinking clearances would get bigger over time not smaller?
But I really have no idea, I even struggle staying on this beast when it is going. It spends a fair bit of it's life on it's side or tumbling down a hill :lol:

berglsmerg said:

turn the shim over and measure it agian ?

Click to expand...

Hey Berglsmerg! Good to see you still lurking around UHE ol mate.
Can you explain why turning the Shim over would change the reading? I am a little out of my depth.
Have you adjusted your Valves yourself before? Did you pull the Rocker Shaft or the Camshaft to change Shims?
It is a wonder no one has invented a little tool to push the Valve Down so you can pull the Shim? Would be easy as long as you turned the motor so the piston was not at the top of the stroke and the relevant Valve was still shut.

the_viking said:

Good stuff, thanks for taking the time to do the pictures Davo, very helpful.

Click to expand...

Thanks the_viking, I appreciate the comments, keep them coming fellas, especially if anyone sees something I could have done better or something I have done wrong.

More comments I get the better job I will do of writing it up :wink: Plus the better this post will be for anyone contemplating checking their Valves in the future. :cheers:
I like to know if what I am doing is any good or not worth writing up?

FWIW, I used to do the "pull the rocker arms shafts" ... till I discovered the problem of wear patterns, rotating them, swapping them, etc., etc.

Now, I just pull the cam if I need to. I think it's almost as fast ... and feels safer to me.

Cheers! E-Ticket

Thanks Davo, those write ups and pictures are worth their weight in gold! I know that myself and others would like to see a write up (and pictures) of actually changing a shim. Thanks

Part 5 - Removing the Valve Shims

There seems to be 2 ways to do this. Remove the Cam Shaft or Remove the Rocker Shaft.
I am choosing to take the Rocker Shaft way. I chose this way because removing the Cam Shaft requires the Cam Chain Tensioner to be removed and it appears you need a special tool to reinstall it.
DaleEO used the remove the Rocker Shaft technique, if it is good enough for him it is good enough for anyone. He is a legend.
Special Tools:
Magnet
Micrometers
8mm Allen Key
Long 6mm x 1.00mm Pitch Bolt

I would advise doing 1 rocker at a time so you don’t mix anything up.
In my example I am taking the Exhaust Rocker Shaft off. That is the bottom Rocker Shaft. This process would be the same for the top “Inlet” Rocker Shaft.


Remove the 8mm Allen Key Head Plug in the Side of the Head near the Spark Plug. Put it on a nice clean rag. Bottom Plug for Exhaust Rocker and Top Plug for Inlet Rocker.
Loosen the 2 x Bolts that hold the appropriate Rocker Shaft.
Here is a picture, where you can see the 8mm Allen Key Head Plug and the 2 x Exhaust Rocker Bolts loose.



Remove the Right Hand side (Spark Plug Side) Rocker Shaft Bolt completely. They are different bolts, so don’t mix them up. Put it on a nice clean rag.

Screw a clean long 6mm diameter x 1.00mm pitch bolt into the Rocker Shaft. It is actually a Rod that you are screwing into that holds the Rocker Shaft and acts like a Bearing. Screw it in where you removed the Allen Key Head Plug.
Just a few turns will do.
Remove the Left Hand side Rocker Shaft Bolt completely. I left the Left Hand side Rocker Shaft Bolt in so the shaft (or Rod) did not spin while I screwed in the 6mm Long Bolt. I think it is important to not let the Rod spin as I think it will give you different Valve Clearances if the Rod is not inserted the same way as it comes out. The 2 Bolts that you removed go through holes in the Rod to stop it spinning. So it can be inserted 180 Degrees out if you spin it.

Place a Large Rag under the bike below the Head in case the Rocker Shaft falls out. Mine did not fall out but I dropped it when I was trying to remove it. It’s slippery with all the oil on it.

Pull the long 6mm Bolt gently and the Shaft inside the Rocker Shaft Slides out. I did not pull it all the way out, just stop puling when the Rocker Shaft Drops. Don't pull it all the way out as you will not be sure which way it goes back in. Again I reiterate, it can be 180 Degrees out and give you different Valve Clearance Readings. Here is a picture:



Here is a picture of the Rocker Shaft as it drops down. You can keep 1 hand on the Rocker and 1 hand on the 6mm Bolt to do this:


Here is a picture of the Bolts and Rocker Removed. Keep them on a clean Rag.



The Shims stayed in place. I think the oil keeps them there.
I used a magnet to get it out.
Here is a picture of the Shim. Rocker Shaft facing Side


Here is a picture of the Shim. Valve Facing Side.


I could see no marks on the Shim to identify it’s thickness. My Micrometers measured 2.92mm (it must be a 2.90mm Shim I think as they don’t make a 2.92mm)



I am off tomorrow to buy some Shims ($12.96 each in Australia) and try and reassemble.
I was 0.02mm tight, so I am buying a few to be safe:
60036035275 SHIM D=10/2,75
60036035280 SHIM D=10/2,80
60036035285 SHIM D=10/2,85
60036035290 SHIM D=10/2,90
60036035295 SHIM D=10/2,95

Will post up more tomorrow inc Bolt Torque settings for reassembly.

Hi Davo,

I've read somewhere that the clearances get tighter on the bergs with time. Is this true?

I have just checked mine and I got 0.12 and 0.13 on the intake, and 0.17 and 0.18 on the exhaust.

I mic'd the exh shims at 2.85 and 2.91 respectively and was gonna chase up a 2.90 and 2.95 shims, but if they get tighter over time, wear should bring them closer to spec and I prolly wont bother.....what do you think?


by the way, have ya go the thermostat set on 20degC in the shed?

oops, sorry, just read your previous comments... #-o

Thanks so much for posting the procedure and Pics - really appreciated. :cheers:

I have 36 hrs on my bike and havn't checked my valves yet, but now I feel more confident about it - I have heard engine ticking on my bike when both cold and warm and unsure if its valves and/or CCT.

Only problem is checking valves at 20 degrees celcius - in Canberra its freezing cold - I'll have to convince Mrs Fizz I'll have to check the valves inside the house :lol:

Regards
Fizz

Hey Davo I use the pull the rocker shaft method like dale, I had the same thing as you with the exhaust being out of spec on one side. As the rocker pushes down on the shim it does it in an arc wearing a "dish " into the shim, turning it over will expose the nice flat side to the rocker arm so your clearance will close up slightly. Fnqberg, the valve lash should open up, if you have diminishing clearances its usually a sign of a tuliping valve or valve seat recession, CRFs were shocking for it.

Fantastic write-up. Thanks very much. (I could have used this when I did mine last month!) Like you, I just had one to adjust.

One point on the cam removal though; It's just that one bolt on the little bracket on the cam sprocket that holds it in place. Then you just slide it to the left side about two cm to be able to lift the rocker and grab the shim. (I used a magnet). No need to remove the cam chain. Nice and easy.

Garrison said:

Fantastic write-up. Thanks very much. (I could have used this when I did mine last month!) Like you, I just had one to adjust.

One point on the cam removal though; It's just that one bolt on the little bracket on the cam sprocket that holds it in place. Then you just slide it to the left side about two cm to be able to lift the rocker and grab the shim. (I used a magnet). No need to remove the cam chain. Nice and easy.

Click to expand...

+2! But even removing the cam is a no-brainer.