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Garrison said:
:lol: thats gold have to tell me mum, she rides a harley :lol: :lol:
70 degree valve check/adjustment
- Thread starter RichX
- Start date
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:lol: thats gold have to tell me mum, she rides a harley :lol: :lol:
One observation re the shims is that:
- the stock OEM shims were made of two materials, a gold color outer band ring and silver color inner.
- the aftermarket Harley Davidson shims were made from just one silver color material.
Does this matter? ie OEM more durable etc?
Regards
Fizz
- the stock OEM shims were made of two materials, a gold color outer band ring and silver color inner.
- the aftermarket Harley Davidson shims were made from just one silver color material.
Does this matter? ie OEM more durable etc?
Regards
Fizz
fizz said:
Hey Fizz,
I did not see the gold colour on the OEM Shims I purchased. Here is a picture of the OEM shims on top of a ProX Shim kit box. There could be a chance the dealer in Sydney sold me non genuine shims and I never knew, but they did come in a plastic bag with the KTM part number on it:
Anyone care to comment on the ProX Brand? Is it good or bad?
It does have made in China on the box, not always a good sign :?
Davo,
the shim in your pic are identical in color the the Harley Davidson shims I bought. When I bought them, the dealer says he sells them to KTM owners all the time as they are cheaper and have them in smaller size increments, but I was wondering why the OEM FE390 etc shims (I pulled out of my bike) had a two part composite material - could mean nothing, could be something - we need to wait for a reply from a guru. Maybe mine were leftovers at the factory - in other peoples 70 degree engine bikes - are they two part material?
fizz
the shim in your pic are identical in color the the Harley Davidson shims I bought. When I bought them, the dealer says he sells them to KTM owners all the time as they are cheaper and have them in smaller size increments, but I was wondering why the OEM FE390 etc shims (I pulled out of my bike) had a two part composite material - could mean nothing, could be something - we need to wait for a reply from a guru. Maybe mine were leftovers at the factory - in other peoples 70 degree engine bikes - are they two part material?
fizz
Just checked mine at 60 hours.
Left inlet .12mm
Right inlet .10mm
Left exhaust .15mm
Right exhaust .12mm
So all OK for a while I guess.
It's good 'cos I'm riding Sunday and changing shims would be inconvenient.
Thanks Davo for the pic's the helped, and I am a mechanic. Always nervous about finding scary bits that might give me problems, so for warned is for armed.
Left inlet .12mm
Right inlet .10mm
Left exhaust .15mm
Right exhaust .12mm
So all OK for a while I guess.
It's good 'cos I'm riding Sunday and changing shims would be inconvenient.Thanks Davo for the pic's the helped, and I am a mechanic. Always nervous about finding scary bits that might give me problems, so for warned is for armed.
Hi fizz.
I have used a mixture of shims in my bike and it's fine.
The Harley ones look ok but have a sharp edge to them, not as well finished as the ones I got from my KTM dealer
which have "hot cams" etched into them, they must be another aftermarket brand as they look different to the factory shims.
Now that two piece look you were talking about on the factory shims is just staining and slight wear, what you can see is the two contrasting differences.
Staining from oil and heat, wear from where the valve end contacts the shim, or on the other side where the rocker arm contacts the shim.
I have added some pic's and on one I have lightly sanded (scotch-brighted) half of the factory shim to show that it is just one piece of metal.
Hope this helps,
Jason
I have used a mixture of shims in my bike and it's fine.
The Harley ones look ok but have a sharp edge to them, not as well finished as the ones I got from my KTM dealer
which have "hot cams" etched into them, they must be another aftermarket brand as they look different to the factory shims.
Now that two piece look you were talking about on the factory shims is just staining and slight wear, what you can see is the two contrasting differences.
Staining from oil and heat, wear from where the valve end contacts the shim, or on the other side where the rocker arm contacts the shim.
I have added some pic's and on one I have lightly sanded (scotch-brighted) half of the factory shim to show that it is just one piece of metal.
Hope this helps,
Jason
Attachments
It's also a really good idea to use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the shim:
a) Just to verify that it isn't mis-marked
b) To find out *exactly* how thick it is. You can have two shims marked 300 ... and one could measure 301 and one could measure out to 302. Then you have the option of choosing the one that is closest to your needs.
You can also ask your dealer to swap shims with you. I am a good customer and they Parts Guys know me ... and if my shim is in very good condition - they'll just swap me and drop mine back in the right shim holder. Which is why I take my micrometer with me when I go pick up shims. You know, better measure that puppy. (grin)
Cheers! E-Ticket
a) Just to verify that it isn't mis-marked
b) To find out *exactly* how thick it is. You can have two shims marked 300 ... and one could measure 301 and one could measure out to 302. Then you have the option of choosing the one that is closest to your needs.
You can also ask your dealer to swap shims with you. I am a good customer and they Parts Guys know me ... and if my shim is in very good condition - they'll just swap me and drop mine back in the right shim holder. Which is why I take my micrometer with me when I go pick up shims. You know, better measure that puppy. (grin)
Cheers! E-Ticket
Here is a picture of the Crank Locking Bolt or as they call it in the parts list:
ENGINE BLOCKING SCREW 0113080802
It is just a 80mm long standard metric 8mm bolt with standard 1.25mm Thread Pitch. Only thing special is it has a Allen Key head on it and the end that screws into the motor is tappered.
Here is a picture of the Allen Key head. I think the US folks call it something else. Actually I think it is called something else in Australia too. Arrrrr a picture is worth a thousand words
ENGINE BLOCKING SCREW 0113080802
It is just a 80mm long standard metric 8mm bolt with standard 1.25mm Thread Pitch. Only thing special is it has a Allen Key head on it and the end that screws into the motor is tappered.
Here is a picture of the Allen Key head. I think the US folks call it something else. Actually I think it is called something else in Australia too. Arrrrr a picture is worth a thousand words
Thanks Nick, much appreciated. :thumb:nick790 said:
- Joined
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- 3,871
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- south east WA Australia
i see your grubscrew is a big as mine 8O
Many thanks to all that posted instructions on checking and adjusting valve clearances. I finally had to shim my left intake valve. It was actually much easier than my Honda CRF250X! That was a refreshing change.
I actually found the instructions in the manual to be pretty good, even though they lack detail. By following the manual and referring to info posted here, it all went pretty smoothly.
Since the instructions in this post are fairly lengthy, and two different methods are discussed, I decided to put together a short document describing the process. I stole photos from some of you, as well as used some of my own.
I would appreciate it someone could review the document and let me know if there are any errors. It can be downloaded from my public Drop Box:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13785889/Husabe ... 0Check.pdf
I actually found the instructions in the manual to be pretty good, even though they lack detail. By following the manual and referring to info posted here, it all went pretty smoothly.
Since the instructions in this post are fairly lengthy, and two different methods are discussed, I decided to put together a short document describing the process. I stole photos from some of you, as well as used some of my own.
I would appreciate it someone could review the document and let me know if there are any errors. It can be downloaded from my public Drop Box:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13785889/Husabe ... 0Check.pdf
I didn't remove the tank the last time I adjusted the valves. That saves a fair bit of time. Removing it gives you a little bit of extra room, but not enough to be worth the hassle. I just slipped the airbox seal to the side to get a straight-through reach to click the cam chain reset button down.
I also didn't remove the spark plug. Not sure why that's necessary.
Thanks for compiling this tutorial. It's really helpful.
I also didn't remove the spark plug. Not sure why that's necessary.
Thanks for compiling this tutorial. It's really helpful.
Wow - if you don't have to take the tank off, the whole process would be much quicker. Taking the tank off and putting it back on is the most difficult part.
Removing the spark plug just makes it easier to turn the motor over, but with a decent cheater bar on the counter sprocket bolt, it probably isn't necessary.
Thanks for the time saving tips!
Removing the spark plug just makes it easier to turn the motor over, but with a decent cheater bar on the counter sprocket bolt, it probably isn't necessary.
Thanks for the time saving tips!
Does anyone know if you might be able to achieve TDC by taking the spark plug out and somehow using the cam sprocket to turn over the motor? I have an auto clutch and I'm about to check/adjust the valves. I'd rather not have to drain the oil and take the clutch cover off..... ???
Thanks
Brandon
Thanks
Brandon
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