70 degree valve check/adjustment
- Thread starter RichX
- Start date
Help Support Husaberg:
Just wanted to say a sincere .... THANKS .... for all the info here !!
I had planned on bringing my '11FE570S with 55 hours on it to the local dealer and have them perform the valve clearance check/adjust but I stumbled across this thread and after reading it and re-reading it numerous times I decided to give it a go myself.
My 'Berg's valve clearances were loose (probably contributed greatly to the lack of wanting to start/run when cold issues, but started/ran fine when hot), so I used the "remove rocker shaft" technique with no problems.
Couple of points of interest: When removing the rocker shaft bolts I found a large variance in the torque required. For instance the left (clutch side) exhaust rocker bolt was, I would estimate almost twice as tight as the right side. I had to use a 6" extension on my ratchet for more leverage.
I was very careful to retorque all 4 of the rocker shaft bolts evenly and at the recommended amount......15nm. This is real important because I tried/noticed a little looser and tighter on the rocker shaft bolts affects the clearance values.
This was the first valve clearance check for this engine.
Also....spark plug access....with the right hand radiator removed it was a no brainer. But....with that radiator in place ... it would be a "challenge" to say the least to be able to remove/replace the spark plug. I've added to my "on bike" tool kit the tools just in case while out in the boonies I had to remove/replace the spark plug. I used the factory provided spark plug socket but definitely preferred the 14mm deep socket with an extension.
And....more thanks for the recommendation of using a micrometer to verify shim thickness. I found the new ones to be on avg. .04mm thinner than labeled.
In closing, I wanted to mention DaleEO, E-ticket, DeeG and especially Davo for the excellent advice, photos and what not to make this happen for me.
Dave
Rider777
I had planned on bringing my '11FE570S with 55 hours on it to the local dealer and have them perform the valve clearance check/adjust but I stumbled across this thread and after reading it and re-reading it numerous times I decided to give it a go myself.
My 'Berg's valve clearances were loose (probably contributed greatly to the lack of wanting to start/run when cold issues, but started/ran fine when hot), so I used the "remove rocker shaft" technique with no problems.
Couple of points of interest: When removing the rocker shaft bolts I found a large variance in the torque required. For instance the left (clutch side) exhaust rocker bolt was, I would estimate almost twice as tight as the right side. I had to use a 6" extension on my ratchet for more leverage.
I was very careful to retorque all 4 of the rocker shaft bolts evenly and at the recommended amount......15nm. This is real important because I tried/noticed a little looser and tighter on the rocker shaft bolts affects the clearance values.
This was the first valve clearance check for this engine.
Also....spark plug access....with the right hand radiator removed it was a no brainer. But....with that radiator in place ... it would be a "challenge" to say the least to be able to remove/replace the spark plug. I've added to my "on bike" tool kit the tools just in case while out in the boonies I had to remove/replace the spark plug. I used the factory provided spark plug socket but definitely preferred the 14mm deep socket with an extension.
And....more thanks for the recommendation of using a micrometer to verify shim thickness. I found the new ones to be on avg. .04mm thinner than labeled.
In closing, I wanted to mention DaleEO, E-ticket, DeeG and especially Davo for the excellent advice, photos and what not to make this happen for me.
Dave
Rider777
2011 390FE 7.7 hours, first check
Can I call this TDC? I know, I'm a bit paranoid this is my first valve check
intake/exhaust in spec :cheers:
I did not pull the tank. Would I need to do that if I had to add shims?
Also I did not lock the engine either. I would imagine that would be necessary if I pulled the cams/rocker shaft right?
BTW, no matter how clean you think you work do not perform this service in your pajamas.
Her indoors not amused.
Can I call this TDC? I know, I'm a bit paranoid this is my first valve check
intake/exhaust in spec :cheers:
I did not pull the tank. Would I need to do that if I had to add shims?
Also I did not lock the engine either. I would imagine that would be necessary if I pulled the cams/rocker shaft right?
BTW, no matter how clean you think you work do not perform this service in your pajamas.
Her indoors not amused.
Trying to get my head around this so I fully understand.
On my exhaust valve, the 10, 12, & 15 fit but the 17 did not.
Is that in spec? I guess the .10mm fitting is throwing me off.
Is the concept of a gap range mean the ATLEAST .12mm and not more than .17mm?
Doesnt make excat sense to me because shouldnt the 10 NOT fit?
On my exhaust valve, the 10, 12, & 15 fit but the 17 did not.
Is that in spec? I guess the .10mm fitting is throwing me off.
Is the concept of a gap range mean the ATLEAST .12mm and not more than .17mm?
Doesnt make excat sense to me because shouldnt the 10 NOT fit?
scorpion said:
.10 is smaller than .15, so if you put anything smaller than .15, it will fit.
Your exhaust valve (you have 2) is between .15 and .16 because the .17 didn't fit.
So it is in spec.
And yes, the gap should not be smaller than .12 and not more than .17.
Duane
getting ready to do my first valve check as well, super happy to have this tread and all the info!
'11 FE390 with 19 hours/700 km.
A very silly question... One thing i didn't notice in this thread, is there any sort of gasket used on the big black cover?
Would hate to haul it apart and have to wait/order to get one in (no ktm/berg dealers around here)
'11 FE390 with 19 hours/700 km.
A very silly question... One thing i didn't notice in this thread, is there any sort of gasket used on the big black cover?
Would hate to haul it apart and have to wait/order to get one in (no ktm/berg dealers around here)
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There is a rubber gasket on the black plastic cover. Just clean it up and put back, no worries.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2011
- Messages
- 93
- Location
- Richmond, TX
Ok, I finally worked up the courage to check my valves on my 2011 FE570S. I have had problems with this bike and it has never been reliable. The dealer changed the camshaft under warranty but it has never started properly cold. It also has the nasty habit of not wanting to start after sitting for 10-15 minutes like when stopping to rest on trail.
Here are the reading I got. WARNING: MATURE AUDIENCES ONLY!
Intake: 0.076/.051
Exhaust: .0102/.0102
How could my valves be that far out of spec? Bike has about 50 hours on it.
Here are the reading I got. WARNING: MATURE AUDIENCES ONLY!
Intake: 0.076/.051
Exhaust: .0102/.0102
How could my valves be that far out of spec? Bike has about 50 hours on it.
Fine sand in airfilter?
Do you often hose your bike under high pressure but afterwards do not swap out the wet airfilter?
I know I am a bit anal, but I will never start my bike after washing with a wet airfilter. I did this also not with my RMZ nor DRZ and I never had valves out of spec.
Do you often hose your bike under high pressure but afterwards do not swap out the wet airfilter?
I know I am a bit anal, but I will never start my bike after washing with a wet airfilter. I did this also not with my RMZ nor DRZ and I never had valves out of spec.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2011
- Messages
- 93
- Location
- Richmond, TX
I have ridden in some dusty conditions but seemed to have a good seal on the air filter and serviced it regularly. Whenever I wash the bike, I put the blue air filter cover to prevent water getting into the air filter and don't typically start it wet but I couldn't swear that I haven't at one time or another.
So I guess I just replace the shims with some smaller shims to get it in spec and see how she goes?
So I guess I just replace the shims with some smaller shims to get it in spec and see how she goes?
- Joined
- May 31, 2013
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Checked my valves after 90h (3700km): still in the middle of the specs. Managed to do it without removing the tank only loosening the radiators.
Hi all,
Valve check @ 80 hours on FE390 @ 20 degree temp.
TDC lined up with dots perfectly together
(one question, if I go slightly past TDC, I can 'knock' the rear wheel backwards to line up the dots - is this valid?)
My issue is my feeler gauges only go as small as .008 and I can not get this into either of the 4 valves.
The bike runs great, only apart as I was getting ready to wrap the pipe and it's well due for the check.
any thoughts?
And if this is correct, what shims would I need to get this within spec?
thx!
Valve check @ 80 hours on FE390 @ 20 degree temp.
TDC lined up with dots perfectly together
(one question, if I go slightly past TDC, I can 'knock' the rear wheel backwards to line up the dots - is this valid?)
My issue is my feeler gauges only go as small as .008 and I can not get this into either of the 4 valves.
The bike runs great, only apart as I was getting ready to wrap the pipe and it's well due for the check.
any thoughts?
And if this is correct, what shims would I need to get this within spec?
thx!
Last edited:
so more reading has me now believing that i'm simply using incorrect gauges 
The smallest I have is .008 and goes up from there
My mis-understanding is/was thinking that 0.12 = .012 for my feelers... which is WRONG!
Temperature: 20 C degrees (68 F degrees)
Exhaust valve clearance: 0.12 -- 0.17 mm (0.0047 -- 0.0067 in.)
Intake valve clearance: 0.10 -- 0.15 mm (0.0039 -- 0.0059 in.)
Based on this proper way of thinking, it's GOOD that my 0.008 didn't not fit, as that would mean the gap is .20 and far to large!
So now i'm off to get a proper set of feelers and check this correctly!
(damn i feel dumb!)
The smallest I have is .008 and goes up from there
My mis-understanding is/was thinking that 0.12 = .012 for my feelers... which is WRONG!
Temperature: 20 C degrees (68 F degrees)
Exhaust valve clearance: 0.12 -- 0.17 mm (0.0047 -- 0.0067 in.)
Intake valve clearance: 0.10 -- 0.15 mm (0.0039 -- 0.0059 in.)
Based on this proper way of thinking, it's GOOD that my 0.008 didn't not fit, as that would mean the gap is .20 and far to large!
So now i'm off to get a proper set of feelers and check this correctly!
(damn i feel dumb!)
Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 3006
Hours: 83.6
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup
Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.08 is super easy, 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly easy, could be 0.11? 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.18mm would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.15 would not fit
These look great to me with the possible exception of the right intake. It's slightly tight but i'll leave it for now and be sure to see how it changes on the next check.
I still have to put everything back together, but overall this wasn't that difficult and i'm glad I managed vs. bringing it somewhere to have it done!
Huge thanks to Davo for the write up and pictures (and to everyone that reports back, more info the better!)
Also, as the pictures currently are not showing up, i just wanna repost the great pdf link that DeeG posted and is hosting on his dropbox: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/13785889/Husaberg Valve Check.pdf
If by some chance this link ever dies, I have a copy saved and if someone wants it, just pm me and I can send it.
(I'll leave my previous comments just in case someone is as dumb as I and happens to run into a similar issue, hehe)
KM: 3006
Hours: 83.6
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup
Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.08 is super easy, 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly easy, could be 0.11? 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.18mm would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.15 would not fit
These look great to me with the possible exception of the right intake. It's slightly tight but i'll leave it for now and be sure to see how it changes on the next check.
I still have to put everything back together, but overall this wasn't that difficult and i'm glad I managed vs. bringing it somewhere to have it done!
Huge thanks to Davo for the write up and pictures (and to everyone that reports back, more info the better!)
Also, as the pictures currently are not showing up, i just wanna repost the great pdf link that DeeG posted and is hosting on his dropbox: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/13785889/Husaberg Valve Check.pdf
If by some chance this link ever dies, I have a copy saved and if someone wants it, just pm me and I can send it.
(I'll leave my previous comments just in case someone is as dumb as I and happens to run into a similar issue, hehe)
