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70 degree valve check/adjustment

2011 390FE 7.7 hours, first check

Can I call this TDC? I know, I'm a bit paranoid this is my first valve check
smugshot_1303960-L.jpg

Thanks for this photo, have no saved it to the PC.
 
Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 3006
Hours: 83.6
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup

Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.08 is super easy, 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly easy, could be 0.11? 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.18mm would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.15 would not fit

These look great to me with the possible exception of the right intake. It's slightly tight but i'll leave it for now and be sure to see how it changes on the next check.

Did my second valve check yesterday... no real change, the Intake tightened up very slightly, but was still able to get the .10mm in without much trouble.

Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 4524
Hours: 124
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup and winter use with Timbersled snowbike conversion

Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - ok @ .15 - 0.18 would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - ok @ .13 - 0.15 would not fit
 
Did my second valve check yesterday... no real change, the Intake tightened up very slightly, but was still able to get the .10mm in without much trouble.

Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 4524
Hours: 124
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup and winter use with Timbersled snowbike conversion

Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - ok @ .15 - 0.18 would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - ok @ .13 - 0.15 would not fit

And my 3rd valve check, barely any change from the last time, just one exhaust loosened up a little.

Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 6292
Hours: 177
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup and winter use with Timbersled snowbike conversion

Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - ok @ .15 - 0.18 would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.15mm - ok @ .15 - 0.18 would not fit
 
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Bike: 2010 FE390

KM: 8611
Hours: 245.4
Riding Notes: ADV & trail riding - Mix of single track, gravel roads & ashphalt

Intake R: 0.13mm - ok 0.14 would not fit
Intake L: 0.14mm - ok 0.15 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - ok @ 0.16 would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.14mm - ok @ 0.15 would not fit

All seems in spec.

This is an amazing bike
 
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First check
Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 3006
Hours: 83.6
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup

Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.08 is super easy, 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly easy, could be 0.11? 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.18mm would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.15 would not fit



And my 4th valve check

Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 8900
Hours: 280
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup and winter use with Timbersled snowbike conversion

Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - ok @ .15 - 0.18 would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - ok @ .13 - 0.15 would not fit



So from 80 hours/3000 km's to 280 hours/9000 km's the valves have barely changed at all. Thats good right?? :)
 
Last edited:
Impressive stuff, we see the same here!
The ktm I have is the same head and it too is not moving at all.

First check
Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 3006
Hours: 83.6
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup

Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.08 is super easy, 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly easy, could be 0.11? 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.18mm would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - slides in with light pressure - 0.15 would not fit



And my 4th valve check

Bike: 2011 FE390
KM: 8900
Hours: 280
Riding Notes: a mixture of trails and street riding with 17" supermoto setup and winter use with Timbersled snowbike conversion

Intake R: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Intake L: 0.10mm - slightly hard @ .10 - 0.13 would not fit
Exhaust R: 0.15mm - ok @ .15 - 0.18 would not fit
Exhaust L: 0.13mm - ok @ .13 - 0.15 would not fit



So from 80 hours/3000 km's to 280 hours/9000 km's the valves have barely changed at all. Thats good right?? :)
 
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Have anybody copied these instructions with pictures to a word or PDF document? All the pictures showing the procedure seem to be long gone...

Would be great to have as I am about to check my 570 for the first time (26h FE570 in mint condition :)

BR,
Erik
 
Old thread, but great info. Horrible rattle coming from intake (I think) on 2010 fe390. Shims are cupped, rocker worn, intake clearance is .508, yes you read that right. My main question: What is the stock shim height? I need an additional .358-.408 to be in spec.

Also, Should there be some side to side play on the rocker? Exhaust is in spec.

Much Thanks,

Ben

*If you’re not crashing, you’re not trying.
 
If your shims are cupped you should replace the rocker. It will wear the new shims at an accelerated rate. Check your rocker shafts and cam too.
Im fixing the same issue. My motor was ran with clogged screens and the rockers were starved for oil. Check your exhaust side too even if the clearance is in spec. My shaft had bound but the clearance was correct.
 
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Firstly thanks to jeffk95z for sending me the collated instructions and photos from this Thread very easy to follow except I have a question regarding the rocker Arm shaft.

I used the rocker arm shaft method and pulled it out completely ( Yes I know the instructions in the thread say do not completely remove the shaft but I missed that bit :mad:)

Is there anyway to tell which way the rocker arm was in the there originally , maybe some wear marks etc....? I get in can on only go 2 ways so 50% chance it goes in the same way


Valve check specs

2010 450FE with 6600km 180 hours

Inlet Valves both within spec

Exhaust right side within Spec

Exhaust left 0.10mm fit and 0.12mm did not fit also tried and 0.11mm which did not fit - out of spec

The Shim I removed for left Exhaust measured 2.81mm ( it actually has 2.x5 stamped on it. the number after the . is worn off )

So off to the KTM store for a 2.60 shim or there about

cheers
Marc
 
Just about to do a valve check on my FE570 with 13000 miles on it. I had a cupped shim last time so I'll see if it's happened again and inspect the rocker arms. Any advice on what to look for is welcome. I see a pic on here with wear on the rocker arms so that's super helpful. As is all the varying input from all the members on here. Such a great resource.


My main question though, I'm going to do a leak down test at the same time since all the parts on this bike have so many miles. I want a reality check on where I'm at on the top end. They say lock the brake while you're testing so the engine doesn't turn over with the pressure.

So, can I use the TDC locking bolt for this or is that not strong enough and might I just break something trying that?

Also any advice on % leakage that's acceptable. There's no spec in the handbook so I'll just go by the tool (Motion Pro) which says up to 14% is good condition.

Thanks all.
Jake
 
When I take my cam out the rockers will not rock back freely far enough to get the shims out. I replaced the rockers and the rocker shafts. I hope I didn’t mess something up. Any thoughts?
 
If your shims are cupped you should replace the rocker. It will wear the new shims at an accelerated rate. Check your rocker shafts and cam too.
Im fixing the same issue. My motor was ran with clogged screens and the rockers were starved for oil. Check your exhaust side too even if the clearance is in spec. My shaft had bound but the clearance was correct.

What did you end up doing to fix it? I have similar issue bike was ran on low oil. Intake clearance was ~0.50mm and cupped to ****. Tried to change shims but bike won’t start now. Rocker and shafts are next. Didn’t get a good look at them as I pulled the cam for the shim job. Hoping I didn’t screw up the timing…pretty confident I did not and it’s still a valve issue but second guessing now. Bike was running before but super loud.
 
Kind of late to the party, do you have any tips on how to remove the valve cover with ease? I have a new to me 570 and the 2bolts on the back of the cover are a pain to remove.
 
The photos have disappeared from Davo’s article/directions. Anyone know how to retrieve them?
 
I've created a dropbox folder w/ the valve check guides i've collected - Husaberg

Hopefully this works - if not, send me a pm and i'll email them to you
 
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