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Vapor lock on 2010 390??

mootak said:
Re: Vapor lock on 2010 390??
Sent: %b %22, %2010 - %0
From: mootak
To: clbuff

The fuel pump test was a static psi test and a run under load test of fuel pump psi using our Husaberg psi gauge to determine the pump was operating to spec.

This bulletin was only issued from Husaberg as a test result page to be filled out if an inop. fuel pump was claimed under warranty. It was not directed at the problems you guys are having. So far every bike through the shop has been checked and all passed to OEM specs on fuel pump psi.

I race and ride the Bergs we sell, a couple years now, and have not had this problem occur to me under any situation. As a rider I am frustrated with everyones no start issue. I just beat my 2010 FE 450 for 75 miles of s**t this weekend and she never missed a beat. I am determined to find the problem.
Just a thought - My #1 fix for most Berg problems has been loose battery terminals. Not sure why, but more so than any other bike. Must be the high output and sensitivity of the EFI to voltages. One other guy had zip tied his quick connect fuel line connection up off the engine case area to tight and it tweeked just enough to stall the bike and not restart, figured the o-ring seal must have bypassed air.

The Husaberg guys are good guys, I have spent time riding and talking set-up with Nathan Woods and Charles his wrench, on a few occasions, once down in Hood River Or. we had 20 new Bergs in the tight woods and all ran perfect all day. they thrive on feedback from riders, and I have discussed this problem in length with them. So far, nothing found.
The search goes on.... we will figure it out like everything else that comes up.

Feel free to post my reply.

Later,
Jeff Tasky

Fantastic, someone(s) is on it! Amen brother. Now we'll get to the bottom of it , hopefully, for all you guy's that are having problems.
 
"...One other guy had zip tied his quick connect fuel line connection up off the engine case area ..."

Yeah, I was surprise the fuel line literally rested on the hot metal cylinder - blue katoom go boom? :shock:

I thought about zip tying too, but decided against it and bought some high temp foil insulation and put it around the fuel line instead, and that touches the cylinder instead. I did a temporary lazy job of it :roll: , but will do it properly when I next take the tank off so I have better access and can do the full length of house, in two pieces either side of the quick disconnect.

Regards
Fizz
 
Gone ride today to see if the problem persist (after checking the fuel filter, connections, and battery terminals) the problem still the same, tight single track wet conditions the engine dies, wait 10 min nothing (no fuel pump buzzing), wait 30 min engine start, then again after 45 min same condition engine dies again have to wait 40 min to start the engine again, I would like to make the test when the engine dies and there's no fuel pump buzzing if there's voltage at the fuel pump terminal when you hit start button, I don't know why but I'm not really sure about a problem in the fuel pump, I don't know if it's possible if a temp sensor send a signal to the ECU and the ECU cut the voltage to the fuel pump? I'm thinking that because you can have the same fuel high temp situation riding in open space trail at high speed and the problem only shows at slow speed high engine temp.
 
Does everyone that is having these somewhat common problems had there dealer check for correct mapping installed?
Also, can we get a list of owners bikes that wouldn't re-start - YEAR, MODEL, LAST 6 DIGITS OF VIN#
I am going racing Sunday in a slopfest harescramble that will have tons of bottlenecks and bike heating issues.

Later,
Jeff Tasky
 
In my case I don't think it's a mapping issue because I'm riding my bike for about 50 hour with the open (race) mapping and after that amount of hours the motorcycle was riding perfect, the problem has been present 2 working engine hours ago.
 
clbuff said:
I don't know if it's possible if a temp sensor send a signal to the ECU and the ECU cut the voltage to the fuel pump? I'm thinking that because you can have the same fuel high temp situation riding in open space trail at high speed and the problem only shows at slow speed high engine temp.

No. The Keihin ECU does not cut power to the Fuel pump due to high heat.
I already tested this back on page 5 of this thread.

JohnnyQuest also ran a test light on the Fuel Pump connector and confirmed power to the pump when the problem happened to him.

Good work Jeff (mootak) for running with this issue. It is good to hear from someone in the know. Hopefully you will find the issue.

Davo.
 
Happened to me today on my 2010 570 with only 2.3 hours on it. Riding today and it's running great, kicking butt. About 3 miles into some fast paced single track we pull over, take breather and discuss where to go next. We get ready to go and the bike starts, in gear, right away. I go to take off and it flames out and dies. It will not re-start. Checked gas, fuses, let it cool down, tried to bump start it, nothing works. It turns over easy with the starter but doesn't even try to light. After about 30 min, my buddy gives me a ride back to my truck and I go pick up the bike. Try it start it, spins easily again but no hit. Loaded up and drove home. At home with a totally cool bike, still the same situation and now the battery is weakening. Put it on a trickle charger and checked all fuses and connections, still no start. I say screw it and watch a movie with my wife. Try it again after the move and it finally starts and runs perfect???!!! WTH? Contacting my dealer tomorrow.
 
Sorry to hear about your dilemma.I was wondering about the conditions when this happened The most common denominator so far seams to be high ambient temps (above 90 deg.) and a half a tank of fuel (aprox.).It seems that stopping for a length of time may be allowing the exhaust pipe to radiate enough heat to seriously cook that gallon of fuel that sits on top of and around the pipe.
 
mootak said:
Does everyone that is having these somewhat common problems had there dealer check for correct mapping installed?
Also, can we get a list of owners bikes that wouldn't re-start - YEAR, MODEL, LAST 6 DIGITS OF VIN#
I am going racing Sunday in a slopfest harescramble that will have tons of bottlenecks and bike heating issues.

Later,
Jeff Tasky

2009 FE450 last 6 VIN#- 366598

Hope this helps. I didn't have this problem until around 35 hours of use.

Miles.
 
Yes, the first thing I did was send my ECU back to my dealer to have it updated. That alowed the bike to start without having to touch the throttle, but it did not fix the no-start-when-hot issue.

The first time I had this problem, I happend to get stranded right next to a big puddle. I splashed water on the engine until it was cool to the touch. I still needed to wait 15 minutes for it to fire. The 2nd time it was during a downpour so the air was not hot. Both of those times, the gas was boiling. The 3rd time it occurred, it was hot; but the gas did not boil because it was a less grueling ride. The 4th time it occurred, I was riding open fast track and it wasn't that hot out and the gas was not boiling. On every occasion it took about 15 minutes before the fuel pump would spin again. One one occasion, it wouldn't start, but I filled the tank with cool gas, and it fired right up.

My bike is a 2010 FE390. My VIN ends in ...255848
 
I'm very disappointed about what I have found!, I'd disassembled the fuel pump assembly to see the condition of the filters and both filters where ok, the second filter it's MAHLE brand made in AUSTRIA but the main component of the system (the fuel pump) it's made in CHINA!!!!, I don't know your point of view but mine is that if I'm buying this kind of motorcycle is for the top quality components that I expect for an european brand like husaberg (ktm) and for me it's very surprising to find a chinese fabrication in a component so important as a fuel pump. If we take a look of every part and component of the bike everything (almost) it's made in AUSTRIA, ITALY or GERMANY where we all know that they have high standards in craftmaship, why not use BOSH, MITSUBISHI for example?
Does anyone had inspected the fuel pump in his bike to check if all the motorcycles have CHINESE fuel pumps?
[attachment=0:1bh9yqfg]IMG_7411.JPG[/attachment:1bh9yqfg]
 

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flyinbryan said:
Sorry to hear about your dilemma.I was wondering about the conditions when this happened The most common denominator so far seams to be high ambient temps (above 90 deg.) and a half a tank of fuel (aprox.).It seems that stopping for a length of time may be allowing the exhaust pipe to radiate enough heat to seriously cook that gallon of fuel that sits on top of and around the pipe.

Yes it was above 90 deg and I had about a half a tank of fuel. Stopped for a short time. Started briefly and died. Sounds like you're on to something.

2010 570 2.3 hours VIN #VBKHAN407AM551963

My bike is completely stock, nothing altered.
 
My bike is a 2010 FE390 and I have had NO problems as mentioned, despite flogging it in 1st and 2nd gear for 10 machine hrs on tight s/t.

My Vin trailing digits are .......AM252533
(07/09) stamped on the bike too.


Regards
Fizz
 
clbuff said:
I'm very disappointed about what I have found!, I'd disassembled the fuel pump assembly to see the condition of the filters and both filters where ok, the second filter it's MAHLE brand made in AUSTRIA but the main component of the system (the fuel pump) it's made in CHINA!!!!, I don't know your point of view but mine is that if I'm buying this kind of motorcycle is for the top quality components that I expect for an european brand like husaberg (ktm) and for me it's very surprising to find a chinese fabrication in a component so important as a fuel pump. If we take a look of every part and component of the bike everything (almost) it's made in AUSTRIA, ITALY or GERMANY where we all know that they have high standards in craftmaship, why not use BOSH, MITSUBISHI for example?
Does anyone had inspected the fuel pump in his bike to check if all the motorcycles have CHINESE fuel pumps?
[attachment=0:2or45yku]IMG_7411.JPG[/attachment:2or45yku]
If this accurate, it's shocking to me that KTM would do that. This could explain a lot of things.
 
Going to be looking for rub spots on my harness on top of engine and at shock area for potential rub-through areas. I have now beat up my 2010 FE450 enough for the problem spots to show. This Sundays wet race I only averaged 6.8 MPH! I cooked her hard and steamed about 7 or 8 times. (So far my bike has never failed to start.)
I am just going to keep asking you guys questions as I think of them. - Anyone had a dealer run diagnostics for fault codes after the no-re-start? If so , what showed up?
Has anyone disconnected and measured ohm reading at pulser side blue two wire connector during no-re-start conditions?
I have been going through diagnostic flow charts all day today and will again tonight while asleep.

Later,
Jeff Tasky
 
fizz said:
My bike is a 2010 FE390 and I have had NO problems as mentioned, despite flogging it in 1st and 2nd gear for 10 machine hrs on tight s/t.

My Vin trailing digits are .......AM252533
(07/09) stamped on the bike too.

Regards
Fizz

Do you have a heat shield on your tank or pipe wrap?
 
MrSmooth said:
fizz said:
My bike is a 2010 FE390 and I have had NO problems as mentioned, despite flogging it in 1st and 2nd gear for 10 machine hrs on tight s/t.

My Vin trailing digits are .......AM252533
(07/09) stamped on the bike too.

Regards
Fizz

Do you have a heat shield on your tank or pipe wrap?


I have a CV4 Silver Heat Shield Blanket that covers the complete underside of the tank area including radiator facing areas.

Regards
Fizz
 
I think it was said earlier ... but it needs stating again.

Thank you very much for you efforts, Jeff.

Sincerely, E-Ticket
 
clbuff said:
I'm very disappointed about what I have found!, I'd disassembled the fuel pump assembly to see the condition of the filters and both filters where ok, the second filter it's MAHLE brand made in AUSTRIA but the main component of the system (the fuel pump) it's made in CHINA!!!!, I don't know your point of view but mine is that if I'm buying this kind of motorcycle is for the top quality components that I expect for an european brand like husaberg (ktm) and for me it's very surprising to find a chinese fabrication in a component so important as a fuel pump. If we take a look of every part and component of the bike everything (almost) it's made in AUSTRIA, ITALY or GERMANY where we all know that they have high standards in craftmaship, why not use BOSH, MITSUBISHI for example?
Does anyone had inspected the fuel pump in his bike to check if all the motorcycles have CHINESE fuel pumps?
[attachment=0:1pb6ksvo]IMG_7411.JPG[/attachment:1pb6ksvo]
Sorry, but as the owner of two bikes with electronics from Italy (both the Ducati and the Husabery[IIRC]) I am not impressed by electronics from Italy. I've had better electronics devices from China.

The dash (speedo, status, etc.) on my Multistrada is very flakey and it is well known that this is endemic to Ducatis. The oil temp is 20 to 30 degrees low when the high beam is on, except when I am using my turn signals. The status display is flakey (sometimes shows gibberish) when the fuel level is low. It magically switches from one mode to another. And so on.

Fortunately this does not affect the operation of the bike, but it leaves less than impressed with Italian electronics. I wish they had used Japanese components, or at least Taiwanese, or Korean or yes, even Chinese.
 
This happened to me in a harescramble a few weeks ago. Hot, humid, and dusty, about 90F. I have ran races in hotter weather with no issues. It was a congo line at the beginning so pace was slow, slipping clutch, etc... and it didn't happen until a few laps in when it was open.
Vid here at 19:45
http://contour.com/stories/setra-2010-long-cane-hs

2010 FE450 US
stock mapping (dealers map tool not working)
FMF Q4, reflective thermal barrier on tank
90F
Flamed out when it shouldn't have stalled
happened 4 times in same race but not until near 3rd lap (~1/2 tank)
gas was boiling in tank, stock vent/check valve in place
took 5-15 mins each time until it would start back up

Hopefully we can find a solution to this! (and a good way to do dead engine starts :angry: )
 

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