Replacement sub frame fuel tank is in the works!!!!

E-Ticket said:

Just had a thought ... will there be enough room to install an in-line petcock if you only want to use the main tank?

As in, some trails rides, I *know* will be under 60 miles, and only filling the main tank would be a nice option.

Thanks. E-Ticket

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That's a good question.............There isn't a whole lot of room down in between the two tanks.

For me, I always fill my tank up to the top no matter how long or short I think the ride is going to be. Too many experiences over the years have taught me the value of having that extra fuel on board.

Will the subframe tank be vented to atmosphere thru the cap or the high point of the subframe? If not it I don't think it will gravity fill from the main tank thru a 1/4" line.

Will the subframe tank be vented to atmosphere thru the cap or the high point of the subframe? If not it I don't think it will gravity fill from the main tank thru a 1/4" line.

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Also, If the subframe tank does have a vent and you are travelling up a steep track, what will stop the fuel from running from the front tank to the back tank (through the 1/4" line between tanks) and out the subframe vent?

JW said:

pollo said:

Maybe we can get some rider review when the tank is tested during race conditions.
As also with the new Aqualine Husaberg fuel tank.

I do like the idea of keeping the good looks of the bike and lack of obstruction from a large tank mounted up front.
But I would like to hear some thoughts on this.

Pollo

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@ Pollo you can see/find info on this here ,

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10312&start=60 ( scroll down)

and an image of the tank fully mounted here

Combine this with Dale's subframe and you have the perfect rally bike!
For enduro trail use I would use Dale's tank.

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I'd stick with Dale's tank also. For rally work that would be fine, but it reminds me too much of my old KTM MXC tank. Too wide at the knees.

WWJ said:

Will the subframe tank be vented to atmosphere thru the cap or the high point of the subframe? If not it I don't think it will gravity fill from the main tank thru a 1/4" line.

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That's a good point. Unless there are a couple of connections to the main tank at different levels or at least in different locations, it may just trap air and not fill or partially fill. I guess Dale might have to come up with some sort of vent that could be closed once the subtank was full, or have an open vent that ties back into the main tank............... :|

Well, I guess you guys never watched Mr. Wizard when you were kids..............

The sub tank vent is going to be on the right side, in the back corner of the right side hand hold. You will need to cut out two of the little tabs to allow the 90* fitting to pop up through there. This the area we filled in since the hand holds are pretty much useless anyway.

From the 90* vent fitting the vent line will go straight forward on the inside of the sub frame, up to the main tank cap vent and T into it. So since the vent height is the high point, the fuel is cannot get pushed out the vent line since the end of the vent line will be higher than the level of the gas.

I had a similar set up with my 94 501 and an Eric's auxiliary tank, it filled really quick. Granted it was only 1/3 of a gallon but it worked flawlessly.

And I believe that anyone who had the Husaberg under seat tank for the last generation bikes will tell you that that 3/4 gallon tank filled quickly via gravity feed through a 1/4" line, and it's vent tied into the stock tank cap vent via a T fitting. Our set up is basically the same principal as both of the examples that I just mentioned, especially the last one, as the stock tank fill cap was above the height of the under seat tank, which had it's own fill cap, but at least one guy I know of here on the site never used that cap as he found that the under seat tank gravity filled very quickly from the main tank.

Serpexc said:

I'd stick with Dale's tank also. For rally work that would be fine, but it reminds me too much of my old KTM MXC tank. Too wide at the knees.

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Its acutally barely wider than the stock tank with the shrouds on, and quite a bit narrower than the MXC KTM tank

from the side looks similar but between the legs its not

DaleEO said:

Well, I guess you guys never watched Mr. Wizard when you were kids..............

The sub tank vent is going to be on the right side, in the back corner of the right side hand hold. You will need to cut out two of the little tabs to allow the 90* fitting to pop up through there. This the area we filled in since the hand holds are pretty much useless anyway.

From the 90* vent fitting the vent line will go straight forward on the inside of the sub frame, up to the main tank cap vent and T into it. So since the vent height is the high point, the fuel is cannot get pushed out the vent line since the end of the vent line will be higher than the level of the gas.

I had a similar set up with my 94 501 and an Eric's auxiliary tank, it filled really quick. Granted it was only 1/3 of a gallon but it worked flawlessly.

And I believe that anyone who had the Husaberg under seat tank for the last generation bikes will tell you that that 3/4 gallon tank filled quickly via gravity feed through a 1/4" line, and it's vent tied into the stock tank cap vent via a T fitting. Our set up is basically the same principal as both of the examples that I just mentioned, especially the last one, as the stock tank fill cap was above the height of the under seat tank, which had it's own fill cap, but at least one guy I know of here on the site never used that cap as he found that the under seat tank gravity filled very quickly from the main tank.

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I think the subtank will stay somewhat full most of the time, unless you completely run it dry. So you'll just be filling the stock portion in many cases. Since we're on the subject, I assume you relocate the pick up to the lowest point on the two tanks? I'm counting the days until I can get my hands on one. :mrgreen:

Glad to hear you've got all the details worked out Dale!
It sounds like it will be a great system.

Looking forward to getting mine.

J

DaleEO said:

Well, I guess you guys never watched Mr. Wizard when you were kids..............

The sub tank vent is going to be on the right side, in the back corner of the right side hand hold. You will need to cut out two of the little tabs to allow the 90* fitting to pop up through there. This the area we filled in since the hand holds are pretty much useless anyway.

From the 90* vent fitting the vent line will go straight forward on the inside of the sub frame, up to the main tank cap vent and T into it. So since the vent height is the high point, the fuel is cannot get pushed out the vent line since the end of the vent line will be higher than the level of the gas.

.

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Looking forward to hearing how the new tanks work out. I want one.
Are you planning on putting a check-valve in the vent line where it exits the new tank to keep fuel out on tip-overs and until you burn enough gas out of the main tank to get the level below the height of the vent?

Hi Randy,

We are not going to be putting a check valve on the vent line. It is my opinion that check valves or no slop valves are a bad thing for a couple or reasons. The first being that I have seen several get clogged with dirt and cause a vacuum lock, blocking fuel flow. And the second and most important is pressure build up inside the tank caused by heating.

With carb'd bikes this pressure build up is enough to over come the float valve and cause flooding. In the 2010 Husaberg's there have numerous reports of the fuel tank cap popping off in the hands of their owners when taking off the fill cap, and the owners getting sprayed with fuel, because the EPA legal 2010's come with a check valve in the vent that allows pressure to build up in the tank.

As my quoted post points out, the vent line for the sub tank is going to tie into the main cap vent at it's highest point. So, if you have a 2010 bike and leave the stock check valve in line this will stop any fuel leakage in the event of a tip over. If you have an 09 bike, you will get some fuel out the vent line, which is the same as if you just had the stock tank only on your bike.

I usually run my tank vent down the frame tube to the skid plate so that any spillage that occurs, will dump out there and not on top of my motor or exhaust.

You used to be able to find swivels for the vent line that didn't have a check valve, but, I don't know of any manufactured that way anymore.

Dale, I can't quite tell from the pictures for sure, but it looks like you've provided for the Husaberg tail light / fender extension mounting screws. Looks like there are areas that can be drilled for the screws... true? - Thx, Ron

Busa10 said:

Dale, I can't quite tell from the pictures for sure, but it looks like you've provided for the Husaberg tail light / fender extension mounting screws. Looks like there are areas that can be drilled for the screws... true? - Thx, Ron

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Actually all of the original wood screw type fasteners that go into the sub frame are being replaced with 5mm threaded inserts. The only wood screws will be those for the rear fender, those that pass through the sub frame and into the fender itself.

05-07-10:

Went out to the molders yesterday to try out the ptype with the inserts now installed. I can tell you that the ptype bolted up perfectly!!!! Hooray!!

We just need to move the insert for the fuel pick up a little, and the inserts for the muffler mount needed to be moved .150" forward. There is still some minor grinding on the mold that needs to be done to make the fender fit on the back top section perfect. Grinding on the mold adds material, and welding takes it away.

I'm sorry I didn't take any pictures of the ptype with the inserts in it, but, maybe I can get Tom to get me some. I was more concerned with getting it bolted up and checking all the 5mm insert locations that are going to take the place of all but two of the wood screws. The only wood screws remaining are going to be for the mud flap, one of those was off by about .100" so that pin will get relocated.

They also changed the finish of the mold for me as well, the original shot peen finish was pretty rough, so they ground it and re shot it with a finer finish that I think all you guys will like.

I ran a preliminary capacity check on the tank and it came out to 1 gallon usable. Due to the nature of the sub frame design there will always be some fuel left in the bottom of the sub frame. I filled the tank from the top across from the vent location, and then pushed some more water up the fuel outlet, to where I thought it would gravity fill to using a 3 foot level and giving it my best guesstimate to where the main tank fuel cap is. And the fuel pick up is going to moved lower on the sub frame so that will also pick up some of that "unusable" fuel left in the bottom.

There is a possibility the capacity will increase slightly as they are going to cut up one of the ptypes and see how thick the xlpe is. If it is too thick they will reduce the amount put into the mold making the wall thickness thinner which will result in more capacity. But keep in mind our goal here was to make this a gas tank, so those critical area's that leak on the stock sub frame when converted will be looked at closely to make sure there is plenty of wall thickness there. And even though we were just using water yesterday, there were no leaks anywhere!! Once the final ptype is done, the molder is going to pressurize the tank and put it under water and check for air leaks to make sure that there are no leaks.

So here are some photo's that Tom sent me before they sent the mold out to have our part for this last Friday made.

This is the fuel fill spigot npt insert on the sub frame.


Here's a view looking down on the lower hard point mount inserts, and the fuel pick up is the blue insert. See that little hump to the right of the blue insert? That's a little groove we molded in for the fuel line to sort of lay into.


These are the rear vertical bolt inserts, with the vent insert in blue, and the fill spigot in the back ground. Let me tell you, redesigning these vertical inserts to make sure there were not leaks from here was really hard!!!!!


Muffler hanger inserts


Overview shot of the mold piece with inserts installed.

Good job, Dale!!! And please pass that along to your crew as well!!

Now, perhaps people will understand why it takes so long for an aftermarket supplier to come out with a new tank, eh ....? :^)

Cheers! E-Ticket

Thats looking like the goods now mate, awesome !

Very nice, I need one of those for sure!!!!

Sethro

I'm putting my preorder in today! 8)

Things seem to have gone a bit quiet on this. Is it still happening?

05-20-10:
Going for a another fit of a ptype tomorrow! We had made changes to the last one as far as fuel pick up location, fuel line recess, side panel insert location, and making some modifications to how the rear fender fit up in the back portion.

It takes about two weeks from the each time I go for a fitting to get the mold back from the rotary molding company, make necessary changes at the shop, reship the mold to the rotary molding company, spin a couple of parts, and get them shipped back to the molding company where I meet up with Tom to check fit and finish.

This time we have spun up two parts, one for me to try fit and finish, and the other has been shipped back east where John is making up the fuel hose connections. We also had these two spun up in two different shades of gray, to see which one best matches the stocker.

You should see a post about tomorrows fitting either tomorrow night if things go quickly, or on Saturday if takes a late day.