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LED headlight

Surely that must be "80W equivalent compared to an incandescant", not actually 80W draw. The amperage is only .9A so that doesn't add up.

I'm no expert on things electrical or LED, but my experience with LED products is the more LEDs it uses, the crappier it is. Picture the cheapo $6 LED flashlights on the counter at the auto parts store with like 16 LEDs crammed into it, compared against a high quality $100 flashlight like a "Surefire" that uses a single high-output LED.

Also, here is a review of the Cyclops 3800 Lm LED from a member on this forum:
http://husaberg.org/electrical/19598-cyclops-3800-lumen-h4-led-headlight-bulb.html
 
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KentJ said:
Surely that must be "80W equivalent compared to an incandescant", not actually 80W draw. The amperage is only .9A so that doesn't add up.

I'm no expert on things electrical or LED, but my experience with LED products is the more LEDs it uses, the crappier it is. Picture the cheapo $6 LED flashlights on the counter at the auto parts store with like 16 LEDs crammed into it, compared against a high quality $100 flashlight like a "Surefire" that uses a single high-output LED.

Also, here is a review of the Cyclops 3800 Lm LED from a member on this forum:
http://husaberg.org/electrical/19598-cyclops-3800-lumen-h4-led-headlight-bulb.html
Click to expand...

Yes will be 80w equivalent as with most low power LED
 
Chief Lee Visceral said:
No but I am dubious... I am about to put in one of these. Notice all the cooling compared to yours.

3600 Lumen LED Headlight bulb for Dirtbikes/Dual Sports
Click to expand...

Usually they only require cooling if they run a transformer. I don't really fully understand the tech to be 100% here but my understand is LED's have such low power requirement for the high lumens output it gives is because nearly all of the energy is converted to light output. Whereas the old incandescent bulbs convert most of the electric into heat which is wasted.

So the only reason for cooling must be a transformer. Im not sure why you would require one on a bike. Usually they are used for 230v step down to 12v for house lighting.

I recently replaced all bulbs in my house and even the 230v direct replacements don't have cooling other than passive formed heat sinks on the back. The 12v 50w spots ones don't have anything at all and you can touch them with your hand when on.
 
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Yeah this stuff with the LEDs and cooling and whatnot kind of doesn't fit to what I thought I knew about LEDs. So thanks for opening this discussion!

At least there's a difference for sure between the low-power decent-light model of a LED light vs. same-power-as-incandescent insane-amounts-of-light model :)

And then there's also a difference between too-cheap and not-cheap ...

Then there's the light pattern to consider.

Another subtle distinction is not only the color temperature but the quality of the light spectrum. The nasty eerie purplish light that some cheap LEDs emit is because the spectrum is all spiky, and our eyes don't like it. The sun emits a very fat and diffuse spectrum of all frequencies, and more expensive LEDs will emit the same. And it makes a differnce! - we can see better! because our eyes are designed/evolved as you wish to work with full-spectrum white light.!

Anyway that bulb should be worth a try at that price?
 
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No worries Tourist.

I can see from Chiefs and KentJ's link to the cyclops the only diff is the need for a rectifier as it states most Berg, KTM, Husky headlamps are AC and the LEDs are DC. This is possibly the reason for cooling?

Notice it also says "Fan cooled for extreme conditions" what does that even mean?

Completely right on the colour and pattern. Bit hard to see how good it is from the spec. Thought i know what you mean about the colour temp. I have some cheaper LED's in a side light and it has a green hue that annoys me. The wife can't see it. Im of the opinion that anything is better than crap yellow hue of the standard bulb.

Ive ordered one of the CREE LED's to test and will report back. In the meantime there is a video here of a before and after. Skip to 1:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GAfCncPD6w
 
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Just had a read of some stuff on the internet.

LED's DO produce heat. This heat byproduct is due to an inefficiency of the semiconductor thats used to produce the light rather than IR light like in a incandescent. Because the input power/draw is so low (usually a few Volts) The LED's are generally cool to the touch or not noticeable warm in comparison to an incandescent bulb.

However with high power LED's (like the cyclops) that draw more power the heat is more noticeable and as the semiconductor heats up the light characteristics change. So efficient cooling with heat sinks and fans are used to dissipate this heat to prevent the light changing. Even though the heat is nothing like a incandescent.

Hope that clears things up. Has for me.
 
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That has been my understanding of it. They do put off heat, but usually in such low amounts that it doesn't matter. It's not until you starting cramming a number of amps through a small diode/IC when the heat becomes an issue.

I have a pile of Costco CREE LED flashlights that are inexpensive, but pretty high output (~200Lm, and a smoking deal for a $6 light). A couple times I have found them left on (kids) and warm to the touch. Not hot, but warm.

Anyways, make sure you post back with your results if you do buy the bulb!
 
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On a somewhat related note I just picked up a new Baja designs squadron xl pro today and it has a pretty huge heat sink in the back.
 
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If you want to learn more about LED's there is lots of really good information here.
Home | BudgetLightForum.com
This is a flashlight forum and there is limited information on motorcycle headlights but a lot of the information is related.
I can say that a high performance led can get very hot, hot enough to desolder itself from its mounting and cooling is very important.
Anyways good modern flashlights and batteries have improved dramatically in the last few years.
 
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huscan said:
If you want to learn more about LED's there is lots of really good information here.
Home | BudgetLightForum.com
This is a flashlight forum and there is limited information on motorcycle headlights but a lot of the information is related.
I can say that a high performance led can get very hot, hot enough to desolder itself from its mounting and cooling is very important.
Anyways good modern flashlights and batteries have improved dramatically in the last few years.
Click to expand...

From reading lots its seems the heat is generated from the IC / Semiconductor rather than IR radiation than an incandescent. Im glad i brought it up. I have learnt something new.
 
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I ordered a ba20d like the linked in first post.

Havent tried it in the woods yet
It draws 1,1A on 12v, so about 10w actual power.
Havent compaired light pattern as my OEM-bulb was blown.
But its only dimmed/less power on dipped beam.
The high-beam light indicator glows on dipped beam aswell.
So, not street legal lightpatern.

Will use this on my 390.
Have done a quite easy mod that redults in the avalability to have lights on without engine running and power for helmetlight only when engine is running.
 
A second type of ba20d led also came in the mail this week.
Installed and took some picsin the garage for comparison.
The second one acctualy looks like real low/high lightpatern against the wall, but not quite the same amount of light output.
Will post the pics during the weekend
 

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