inner clutch hub threads stripped

[BLUDGEONER]

Tackled the good old water pump shaft seal yesterday (milky oil). After reading many threads on here about it to prepare, I thought it had gone pretty well - until I found I'd fallen in to the "kick start trap"! So while removing the clutch (force parts slipper) I noticed 1 thread was stripped in the inner hub, and the other 3 are pretty poor also. My question is - is there any reason why I shouldn't drill them out 1mm bigger and tap new threads? Seems to be plenty of meat there - I'm just wondering if bigger bolts will have any effect i.e. I'm assuming the bolts need to be torqued to a certain value, will torquing bigger bolts to that value compress the springs more?

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[bushmechanic]

It's probably ok but there is a better way

Make the threads longer and use longer 6mm bolts. 7mm diam is a bit odd

I run this setup on my mongrel engine. second hand parts were stripped

 

[BLUDGEONER]

They're M5 I think. The threads really are in poor state. I think they've been helicoiled before as well. If using M6 bolts won't affect the operation, I think that will be the best solution - I don't want one of them pinging out!
By the way - if anyone has a link to the force parts slipper clutch fitting instructions, it would be much appreciated. Just to make sure I put it back together correctly.

 

[BLUDGEONER]

Had another good look at this today. Longer bolts aren't an option unfortunately - the diameter of the hole/shaft widens as it goes deeper. Looks like my only options are to helicoil or go for it and drill + tap them to M6 (they are definitely M5 at the moment).
Anyone got that link to the force parts slipper clutch fitting instructions?
Cheers.

 

[makazica]

I have a hub that I might sell if you make me a decent offer...off a 2004 fe450, used but in very good condition.

Dont have the instructions for the slipper one unfortunately...

 

[BLUDGEONER]

Slipper clutch hub is different to the stock one - 4 bolt rather than 6. Thanks for the offer though.

 

[BLUDGEONER]

Well, I finally got this sorted and back together by drilling and tapping to M6 and putting long bolts in. Seems to be up to the job now.
I've now put about 6 litres of cheap oil through it to get rid of the milky grey crap - just cranking the engine over for a bit before dropping the oil and putting in fresh. I'm ready to run the engine again now - just for a couple of minutes, then change the oil once more before putting water back in the colling system. I wanted to make sure the oil is completely free of water contamination first, so that I'll know for sure that the seal was fixed properly.
Now - for the life of me, I can't get it to fire up, was easy(ish) before. Got a good spark, and pretty confident fuel is getting through (all I can get out of it now is the occasional backfire!).
It's got me wondering if I've disturbed something? Timing out because I've had the clutch basket off? My next step is to check the valve clearances, but I can't see how they will now be out as it started fine before all this? Any guidance would be much appreciated!

 

[Taffy]

Tackled the good old water pump shaft seal yesterday (milky oil). After reading many threads on here about it to prepare, I thought it had gone pretty well - until I found I'd fallen in to the "kick start trap"! So while removing the clutch (force parts slipper) I noticed 1 thread was stripped in the inner hub, and the other 3 are pretty poor also. My question is - is there any reason why I shouldn't drill them out 1mm bigger and tap new threads? Seems to be plenty of meat there - I'm just wondering if bigger bolts will have any effect i.e. I'm assuming the bolts need to be torqued to a certain value, will torquing bigger bolts to that value compress the springs more?

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so what year and model is this off then?

Taffy

 

[bushmechanic]

So you have m5 x0.9 ?

If you go to m6 x 1 you will be fine

The same Tourque values on these result in very similar forces

 

[BLUDGEONER]

so what year and model is this off then?

Taffy

05/06 550

This one -

 

[BLUDGEONER]

So you have m5 x0.9 ?

If you go to m6 x 1 you will be fine

The same Tourque values on these result in very similar forces

Yep, they were definitely M5 (not sure of the pitch but likely 0.9). Definitely now drilled out and tapped to M6x1, Loctited and torqued to 8Nm.
Just hope i put it back together in the right order!

 

[bushmechanic]

Excellent !

Very sexy forks

 

[Taffy]

I can't believe that they haven't used M6 x 1mm all along? yep go for that then.

regards

Taffy

 

[BLUDGEONER]

Thanks. Any ideas on the non starting issue? Is it possible that I've thrown something (timing?) out of whack while the clutch hub was off?

 

[bushmechanic]

I would ..... Remove the pulse coil (on my 650 crank locking bolt is underneath)

Lock crank at Tdc

take clutch cover and rocker cover off check marks

Other bikes the locking bolt is out front

 

[BLUDGEONER]

Bugger! REALLY didn't want to hear that the clutch cover has to come off again! Oh well - my own fault I guess. Presumably my mistake was not locking the engine at TDC before removing the clutch hub? Better get on and order the locking bolt - unless another type of bolt can be used for this? Thanks for the advice so far....

 

[makazica]

Use for ex. a 50mm long M8x1.25 bolt and make the tip sharp with a file.

 

[BLUDGEONER]

Shouldn't there be a bolt in there that you just take out, remove the washer/spacer, put back in at TDC and it locates? Maybe that's on some KTM's - sure I've seen it somewhere. I'll check later. Otherwise I'll do as above - I take it it's just a pointy M8 - can whip that up with a grinder in a few minutes.
Cheers.

 

[BLUDGEONER]

Ok, now I'm getting somewhere. Made the lock bolt earlier as per makazica's post, checked as per bushmechanic's post and the marks were out.
Before -

After adjusting, everything lines up and I was able to start it (still a bit of a struggle though). Now, after reading through Husabutt's post about valve clearance adjustment in another thread - I'm slightly concerned that maybe I was at overlap TDC and not TDC of the compression stroke. Would that have made a difference and if so, would I have been able to start it now if I'd adjusted eveything at overlap TDC? Or should I just go ahead and set the valve clearances now....
Thanks again for the advice so far.

 

[bushmechanic]

I don't think you would have been able to start it if you set on overlap

Actually I don't think there is enough adjustment to achieve it

But with the marks out maybe you bent the valves it's not definitive since you were close with the marks but

If it continues to be hard to start or gets worse that's likely what has happened