Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
i suppose with the jbs kit is no longer available Its not really possible to derail a train with no tracks
as far as TQ vs power Im not edjumicated enough to explain the actual practical difference John
My bumblificated observations are that my 700 is way way faster at everything than my 628 which makes similar peak HP, has a lightened crank, Ti pin, 3015 cam bigger valves and revs its little head right off
the main advantage of the bigger engine is in low and mid rpm response which reduces the delay in initial acceleration, meaning everytime your speed is at a minimum from obstacles or pesky corners you gain a bike length or so over the other machines on initial throttle application, something the paddle tyre takes to another level again.
its not arm wrenching acceleration just a reduction in the small but important period of time it takes to apply power and regain momentum from the slowest speeds.
so i suppose this is measured as off idle tourque being higher .. more like an electric motor
this has been mentioned before i believe.
http://husaberg.org/supermoto/17580-650-tuning.html
as far as TQ vs power Im not edjumicated enough to explain the actual practical difference John
My bumblificated observations are that my 700 is way way faster at everything than my 628 which makes similar peak HP, has a lightened crank, Ti pin, 3015 cam bigger valves and revs its little head right off
the main advantage of the bigger engine is in low and mid rpm response which reduces the delay in initial acceleration, meaning everytime your speed is at a minimum from obstacles or pesky corners you gain a bike length or so over the other machines on initial throttle application, something the paddle tyre takes to another level again.
its not arm wrenching acceleration just a reduction in the small but important period of time it takes to apply power and regain momentum from the slowest speeds.
so i suppose this is measured as off idle tourque being higher .. more like an electric motor
this has been mentioned before i believe.
http://husaberg.org/supermoto/17580-650-tuning.html
"Genius" is far from it, but I can agree to "Persistent". But thanks for the kind words, Canolman!
In RR, manoeuvrability and smoothness beats power at most tracks. Generally, you need top end power at the tall straight, but a strong mid range to get out of EVERY corner.
Even better is a really smooth and sensitive delivery at 0-15% throttle to be able to crack the throttle directly after letting go of the brakes.
But, of course, more power is always fun, costly and giving headaches! You have received good ideas from Bushie, so I have nothing to add there. My strongest recommendation is that after you have installed all hardware, spend a day at the dyno finding out optimum pre ignition, jetting, intake length, exhaust length (and restriction) and finally jetting again. All in that particular order! Use the dyno to get value for all the money you spent on expensive "go fast thingies"! Otherwise it's all like buying beer and firecrackers.. Bushie can explain.
this is the best advice Ive read on power delivery for a long time and it applies to every form of racing except probably hillclcimbing and drags
increasing the minimum speed in each corner is the easiest place to make big gains but if you are not marky marques it is easier to go safe old man speed slow in the corner and have a good initial acceleration from the first bit of throttle, it is also easier to maintain the minimum speed, this is the main advantage my bike has over the smaller engined ones it jumps a bike length or so ahead when its time to go.... makes up for me being a slow old man
the firecrackers and beer are best when made at home in the shed from old shotgun cartridges and the hops of a kangaroo all on the same bench alongside a husaberg:ninja:
