I am officially on my hands and knees begging for help

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Bike should be at TDC compression when adjusting valves and setting stator and timing, yes it makes a difference. If you can get Berger to stop by all will be well, take him up on that !
 
Ok I will check the stator.....I am not sure that it is at TDC compression. I am hoping that it is not.

You see...these are the types of things that someone like me needs to know. You guys might find this stuff elementry.....but I don't know all this......I am learning soooo much......thank you everyone for your help......maybe we can get this thing to run at some point
 
ok when you look through the small hole in the right hand sidecover, you willsee aline that doesn't move marked on the stator. it's in your owners manual as well. you want it to be half way across the window and if it is already halfway then change it to just slightly to the right of centre.

you won't do any damage so have a go!

look under 'lbrown' for posts on the same subject same bike. it didn't run tilli checked the real TDC and readjusted the ignition timing. now go to the search and put lbrown in and read.

then do it!

regards

Taffy
 
I think part of your problem is that you are not taking into account that you have cam timing and the ignition timing. Cam timing is with the timing chain and gears. It affects when the valves open in relation to the piston/crankshaft position.
Ignition timing is adjusted by the position of the stator. This tells the coil/plug when to fire.
 
I finally figured that out yestday....and I am sure that I checked the cam timing correctly, I am going to go back and check the ignition timing. I think I might have some issues there.
 
Guess they wouldn't have ran it if they only had the engine. :) Crank mounted ignitions (like they use on a 2 cycle) have no way of differentiating between TDC compression and TDC exhaust so they fire every revolution. This firing on the exhaust stroke is a big contributor to low speed flame outs when using cams with lots of overlap but doesn't hurt the starting. Might recheck the valves. I have had a tough time adjusting Husaberg valves with conventional tools i.e. a wrench and screwdriver. Hard to get a wrench in there and hard to keep the screw from turning and tightening up the valve using a simple screwdriver to hold it when tightening up the lock nut. I ground 2 flats on a 10mm socket so that I can tighten it with a 14 mm wrench, and use a T handle screw driver to hold the screw through the socket. I adjust them to 1/6 turn (.005). Makes it easy to determine 1/6 turn since the lock nut has 6 sides and .001 loose doesn't seem to bother. Intakes tighten up from running anyway.
dan
 
I used a very small flat head screw driver and an open end wrench and it worked out. It was a bit cumbersome, but it was do-able.

I did not get to work on the bike at all last night. I would have to say that one of the best guesses that I have is that the ignition timing is off, and I am for sure going to re-check the valves. Hopefully Speaker will come over tomorrow night and throw his brain in the mix. And I am keeping my fingers crossed that Ned37, Sethro, or Berger will be able to take a look at it. If I can't get anyone because of schedules or whatnot.....I am going to fashion a explosive device of some type and blow the bike up......just kidding but that is where my frustration is at right now.

Darrin
 
You need to give Mrs. drdfblackm some flowers or something for putting up with the "other woman!" Right now I refer to my 'berg as Christine, ala Steven King! Did the bike start and run prior to your initial partial tear down? I don't recall seeing if it did or didn't.

1. Have you verified fuel to the plug? i.e. kick several times, (10 or so), remove the plug. If it's wet then you have fuel if not no fuel.

2. I hate to admit this but one time I stripped the carb and forgot to set the appropriate idle. :oops: So check that too.

3. I hate to admit this as well, but one time I stripped the carb and forgot to set the idle screw. I had set it all the way in but got distracted and neglected to turn it out. :oops:

4. Do what Taffy suggested and move the stator to just past halfway on the stator cover hole, (to the right).

5. Is there appropriate slack in the kicker decomp cable & the bar mounted decomp cable? I think you said the kicker was but check the bar mount as well.

6. Checked the plug cap for resistance. You mentioned that you were having troubles with measuring the cap resistance.

FWIW Since the coil/resistor is an RL circuit I would think they placed the resistor there to extend the spark duration. Problem is, if the resistance is too large the spark will become weak due to the power loss in the resistor. I just replace my plug cap every so often since they are cheap.

7. You've already verified spark so that can be ruled out.

I might help if you made a grocery list of all the items you have ruled out since the thread is quite lengthy. :D
 
Yes the bike ran before the initial teardown......moving the bike up around 5500' in elevation caused some carb issues. So that is where this all began.

As for the carb, I am still learing about the Keihin FCRs.....I geuss Speaker is going to give me some "learnin" on the carb when he comes over. I would not say the plug is wet....but it has some dampness to it. I am going to check on that tonight. Some more. As for the idle.....I doubt it is set...but at this point I am just looking to get some fire out of the bike. Then I will move on to running.

Darrin
 
The bitch has awakened!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Speaker came over tonight and we got the Berg running. First.....the valve needed to be adjusted, I will prob readjust again. Next Speaker has had a bunch more experience with FCR carbs....so we worked on adjusting the needle and the idle, and adjusted the idle, and adjusted the idle, and for like the 1000 time adjusted the idle. Finally the bike fired up. I can't thank Dom enough....he stuck it through with me. I am breathing a sigh of relief.

I also want to say thanks to Berger.....we gave him a call and he was as helpful as he could possibly be over the phone. Gave us plenty of encouragement.

I do still need some help. The carb as a pilot jet of 85!!!!! Yes that is right 85. Dom was not even sure Keihin made an 85. So my question is what pilot jet should I be using at an altitude of 7000'.

Thanks again for all the words of encourgement and all the advice. I still have to tweak on the bike, need to re-seal the cam cover. I have to get the pilot jet changed. I have to get the clutch and rear brake bled. Want to get the bike street legal in the future. But for now I am overjoyed that it stated.

Finally I can say.....happy to have a Husaberg!!!!!!!

Darrin
FX 650.....running finally.
 
So.... It was not a compression issue, after all, but something a lot simpler, as usual.

When all the parameters are right, it starts like a charm, doesn't it?
 
Actually we unhooked the autodecomp cable. I will try the bike with it back on tomorrow. And I would not say that it starts like a charm yet. Still needs some fine tuning, nevertheless we got the bike started. Baby steps.
 
Ok, the kick auto decomp cable can be parted with, it is not necessary. Proof is that they removed it.

It's a crud collector as well as a pain to set, and even when set, it is barely useful.

Glad you're back on your wheels.
 
Well I just want to make sure that everyone knows how thankful I am for all the help and support. This group is one of the best groups on the internet by far. Thank you to everyone that has helped.
 
Well at least you can get a puff of laughing gas when your Berg makes you feel blue.
 
well done darrin

first of all any cable isn't an autodecomp cable. it's a decomp cable. the auto decomp is well... auto!!!!!

secondly, that 85 PJ is infact your choke jet. you have three jets in a row in the baser of your carb. they should come out plus or minus a few numbers at:
40
175
85.

i think you need to get back under the carb and look again. if it really is an 85PJ i'm a gnome!

regards

Taffy
 

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