I am officially on my hands and knees begging for help

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There was not an original problem.....I saw metal in the oil....freaked out, pulled the top end....no problem, put back together....found out the stator was dead, Sparks reworked stator, timing is correct, good spark, wiring is good, checked valves according to the owners manual....they were off....adjusted according to manual, carb has been jet for Flagstaff.....I don't know why it won't start. Seems that the decomp is constantly not allowing compression to build up. The bike ran when I bought it, but it barely ran. Took a billion kicks to get anything to happen. So I think that brings everyone up to speed.
 
How much metal are we talking about? With new parts in, it is normal to see a little bit of metal on the magnetic plug. Unless you find a piece of tooth or piston ring, nothing to be alarmed of.

The decompression valve lifter (as called in the parts manual) only activates when you pull the lever. The other one only works when the camwheel is spinning with a certain amount of speed. If you push on the kick lever slowly, it should not be activated and you should indeed hit the wall after a while.

Bergs from the 01-03 gen also have that auto-decomp cable that runs from behind the battery and is also supposed to pull the lever and release a bit of compression when you kick.

If you have that cable, make sure it is not too tight. It may indeed interfere and can be removed anyway. Did you check that?

Also we agree that you adjusted your valves at TDC and at COMPRESSION, right?
 
Yes, I know on the metal, I freaked for no reason....lesson learned. My bike does not have a battery...I don't have an E-start. Only manual and auto decomp.
 
Ok, do you have the cable that runs from behind the kick start assembly, to the right side of the engine, where it joins the decomp lever cable? If yes, you may want to adjust or even remove it.
 
I have it adjusted with about 2 mm of slack...according to Stoveguy....and yest that is the auto decomp lever....I was unaware you could remove that. Good thought.
 
I removed mine and plugged the hole with a bolt. Looks nice from the outside. Apply sealant as it makes sense.

Did you inspect your piston rings?
 
well as the only man to try and help you last time i guess i'm still needed or am i giving out duff info?

i would buy a new plug again. i would pull the float bowl (21mm) and i would pull the choke jet which may well be blocked.

while i'm there i would let the fuel taps run just to make sure that all was good. yes i know, the workshop will stink!

another thing you can do is move the stator so that it is slightly right of centre as you look through the sight glass. . don't forget that you can always put it back again afterwards.

then i would kickstart it with choke. if the plug wasn't wet after 20 kicks i would pour a thimble of fuel throuhg the plug hole.

regards

Taffy
 
Lets' get this right. The manual decompressor on the bars has 2mm freeplay at the cable end on the head, right?
I have seen this cable misrouted past the tank rubbers causing the cable to be pulled all of the time causing an issue. I have also had to use return springs on this cable to ensure that it was not engaging when not in use.
DelOrto's do not handle elevation extremes well. I have gone from Phoenix to 7800 ft elevation and never got the bike to even think about starting. If it was jetted for Prescott it should at least start in Flag.

PM your phone number. I think I am going to be in Flag this weekend. I may be able to stop by for a bit.
 
I don't have a DelOrto...I have a FCR41 carb...Keihin not DelOrto. No, I have 2mm of slack at the cable tensioner for the auto decomp....I will have to check the routing of the manual lever. I don't have the tank on right now so I don't think it is causing a prob.

I have several new plugs....so that is not the problem. The bike had plenty of compression when disassembled. I think that I have something together wrong on the decomp side of things, but as I have stated, it looks as if everything is on there correctly. But I have looked at and taken this thing apart so many times I no longer know what to look at.

As far as moving the stator....what will that accomplish Taffy? I have a good spark at this point.

I am seeing patients so I will be in and out and not able to look at the bike, but I am sure I can remeber if there are questions.
 
you say the valves were way out. who put the cam cover back on, you or the shop? who did the adjustment you just redid? were the cam bearings changed? i had one that went bad, but had not yet self-destructed so that when you adjusted the valves, it was a false adjustment. you could turn the engine over a couple of times and they would need adjustment again. have you tried pullstarting it? or bumpstarting down a long hill?
 
was the carb redone while the bike was down, or is it the same as before the teardown?
 
"As far as moving the stator....what will that accomplish Taffy? I have a good spark at this point."

This changes ignition timing.
 
ned37 said:
was the carb redone while the bike was down, or is it the same as before the teardown?
Click to expand...

Carb has been jet for Flagstaff, I had it apart and cleaned it up....float was stuck on Friday, took apart again....seems to be working correctly now.
 
ned37 said:
you say the valves were way out. who put the cam cover back on, you or the shop? who did the adjustment you just redid? were the cam bearings changed? i had one that went bad, but had not yet self-destructed so that when you adjusted the valves, it was a false adjustment. you could turn the engine over a couple of times and they would need adjustment again. have you tried pullstarting it? or bumpstarting down a long hill?
Click to expand...

Shop put it back on initally, then when I checked timing yesterday, I put it back on....I don't know who adjusted the valves....I am pretty sure that Premier (PHX) did not adjust the valves...basically they put on new head gasket and reinstalled the cam chain....buttoned the bike back up.

I will check the valves again. I have not tried to start any way other than kicking the bike over.

As I said before the bike started easily in Prescott.....very hard to start in Flagstaff...then tore bike down and replaced stator.....I know the bike will run...but so many changes now I don't know where the problem is located.
 
berger said:
"As far as moving the stator....what will that accomplish Taffy? I have a good spark at this point."

This changes ignition timing.
Click to expand...

Oh....ok I see, but I don't completely understand what Taffy was saying about moving the stator.....restate in ******* terms.
 
LeFrog said:
I removed mine and plugged the hole with a bolt. Looks nice from the outside. Apply sealant as it makes sense.

Did you inspect your piston rings?
Click to expand...

I did not personally inspect the rings...but I don't feel that there was anything too bad that would inhibit the bike from running...there was a bit of scoring on the cylinder walls, but nothing a woods rider should have a problem with.
 
"Oh....ok I see, but I don't completely understand what Taffy was saying about moving the stator.....restate in ******* terms"

Are you sure the ignition timing is correct after the stator replacement? Taffy was suggesting to adjust the timing to see if it would help the starting issue.
At least thats the translation I got from my English to America (red neck) dictionary :D
 
Yes, I used LeFrog's photos to check the cam timing....it appears to be as it should be. Micky mouse ears at 10 and 2 o'clock position. Ignition timing...I don't know about that...I installed the stator when the engine was at TDC, I assume that means the ignition timing should be right....or is there something that I am missing.
 
I can't imagine anyone removing the valve cover and not readjusting the valves since the rockers are in the cover and the valves are in the head. Different gasket sealants can make a couple thousands difference. Is also hard to imagine a shop not starting and taking the bike for a test ride after working on it. You mention the valves being way off when you adjusted them and replaced the stator. You sure the motor was on TDC compression and not TDC exhaust when you adjusted the valves?
dan
 
dsducati said:
I can't imagine anyone removing the valve cover and not readjusting the valves since the rockers are in the cover and the valves are in the head. Different gasket sealants can make a couple thousands difference. Is also hard to imagine a shop not starting and taking the bike for a test ride after working on it. You mention the valves being way off when you adjusted them and replaced the stator. You sure the motor was on TDC compression and not TDC exhaust when you adjusted the valves?
dan
Click to expand...

The shop only had the engine....I removed it took it down to PHX. And I made sure that the motor was on TDC compression because I read that step specifically in the users manual. Now I cannot be assured that I did the same when I installed the stator.....would that make a difference.....I am assuming so......should the motor be in TDC compression when installing the stator or TDC exhaust? Does it matter?
 

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