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husaberg fs 570 "project"

thx for the manual worstinfinland I found what I needed on page 44...


Why the sad face spanner I thought this was a good thing or do you mean they are heavy I have no idea what is light or heavy for these parts...
 
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I just left my crank with a dealer to get it rebuild and asked him to send my cilinder to gw racing and get me a matching cp piston would like to give that a go.
If they are fast enough at gw to respond because I want my bike back together by the end of the month...
I want a 610 someday but for now it will stay a 565 ;)
If things don't workout with gw racing I order a stock cyl kit than I have a spare liner /cylinder :cool:
 
I think the Carrillio is over engineered so they have a good reputation for reliability, but at the expense of performance. A heavy rod is going to make that
crankshaft splay just that much easier. IMO.
Can you weigh the STD 570 rod for a comparison?
I am thinking of using one as they look pretty stout compared to the 628 rod.
 
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HusaBELGfs570 said:
If things don't workout with gw racing I order a stock cyl kit than I have a spare liner /cylinder :cool:
Click to expand...

Then you are 1/3 the way to a big bore ;)

Axial play is specced as 0.25-0.35mm, the crank should be 63mm +- 0.05, I found that at 63.00mm the side clearance on the rod was 0.40mm (spec 0.40-0.60mm) and the axial was at the tight end. This is where the shims come into play, to adjust that clearance. I believe the higher axial clearance is favourable, saying that Ive had no trouble so far with. 025mm axial.
 
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It will be a carillo piston ;)
The new crank bearings are installed just ordered some more small seals/o rings to replace and tommorow my crankshaft is going away for the new rod to be installed. )
I wil ask if I can get the old rod back to compare weights....;)
 
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carillo data from bergsmlerg, i have his actual shortarsed husaberg rod here somewhere, if i find it i can check

http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17170-definative-main-bearing-thread-3.html

bushmechanic said:
Hi bergsmlerg

yes the info you sent me on the 570 rod is .... centre to center is 120.8 **edit is that right ? seems very short**** and small end is 20mm the big end pin is 35 od and 62.7 long weighs 394g the big end is 42mm id and 19.90 thick with a 19.70 thick bearing cage.
Click to expand...

I measured the berg 570 rod at 120.5 centre to centre with the CNC mill, the 3d software says it should be about 314gm but i will check that later
 

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Thanks Bushie,

314grms would be very nice, much lighter than the 370grms (aprox) of the 628 rod.
 
My short arsed rod made its way into your box bushie ha ha ha. I see I made an error in the definitive main bearing thread, I quoted 0.09mm when it shoulda been 0.009". Doh :eek:
 
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well the complete crank setup wit the carillo rod is 50 grams heavier compared to stock....
The stock rod still looked very good I will make picture later;)
The carillo piston+cylinder is ready to get shipped back to me after gw racing receives payment so hopefully by the end of the month the 570 is back alive:)
 
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interesting fact to get correct crank/case clearance all shims had to be removed with the new assembled crank and is now at minimum tolerance for splay....
 
Bike is FINALLY getting ready today installed the complete engine checked the valve's inlet are at .11/.12 outlet aruond .13
I think i screwed up the wiring harness though the cables are running over the frame where the rear schock is and now the bike is coming together and start connnecting the electric I am almost sure the cables have to run under the frame:rolleyes:
So tommorrow figure that out install the cool system/fuel tank get the djh tensioner adjusted and figure out what's wrong with my front tyre it was perfectly fine when I was riding it (long time ago) but now If I inflate it few days later no air in tyre...
Don't see any damage on the outside of the tyre to I sure hope the rim (aplina tubeless) is still ok:rolleyes:
 
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The loom is supposed to go under the frame in between the two engine mounts. I guess the easiest way is to disconnect the battery and fuse box to be able to pull the cables the right way.
 
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thx I also removed the rear schock and re routed all the cables cost me some time....
Bike almost finished now I am just having a hard tilme getting all the stuf installed correctly at the battery/ecu box and than install tank/subframe and I'm finished :)
I hope to go on my first ride on saturday feels like ages ago:rolleyes:
 
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