husaberg fs 570 "project"

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bike is ready to go:)
The manual cct was a littlebit of a pita to adjust without the correct size tools I used a torx 27 bit and a wrench to adjust it and my size 14 wrench felt slightly to small to slide over the lock nut and 15 to big....
I also didn't hear much difference setting up what was to loose/tight but the bike was vibrating a lot when I relaesed tension so I turned it in till I felt some resistance and than about a half extra turn and the bike runs smoother...
Maybe I set it up to loose ...
There are 4 threads showing (just) I will upload a pic later...
It's a new camchain btw;)
I will look for some non european siize allen key set might come in handy in the future:)
I'm leaving for 1st ride in approx 30 mins:cool:
 
Whent for a 40 minute ride and drained the oil.
First umpressions bike feels less smooth from idle to 4000 rpm also feels like it idles slightly less rpm than before strange...
I didnt dare to wring its neck or rev it very high on this first ride but it feels strong lifting the front in 3th with tall gearing (15/43).
The bike handles like a dream you can go at high speed at lean angle over bumps the bike does not get unstable:)
The oil still had the same color like it whent in and no metal worth mentioning on magnet.
The long filter next the drain plug was al clogged up though no metal i guess a piece of rag or paper was in the motor....
Now fresh oil and next ride built up some more speed/revs
 
Well Yes once it warmed up i was riding it pretty hard but not wot a lott just using the torque.
I barely gone above 7000rpm next time i will.
Maybe the bike feels less smooth because of the higher comp piston?

I read that link already long time ago i dont break in by the book riding like a granny but not flatout to;)
 
berglsmerg; That link is so gold I stayed up all night reading it. There were some things I been looking for as my next project is to tear down my sumo and re-build it. Finally things makes sense and the black magic is just magic.

HusaBELGfs570, my sumo has a hi comp piston and it's not smooth at all at lower revs compared to my enduro, borderline not nice at all. I don't trust the mapping but it makes sense that the higher comp is the culprit.
 
jon andersson said:
berglsmerg; That link is so gold I stayed up all night reading it. There were some things I been looking for as my next project is to tear down my sumo and re-build it. Finally things makes sense and the black magic is just magic.

HusaBELGfs570, my sumo has a hi comp piston and it's not smooth at all at lower revs compared to my enduro, borderline not nice at all. I don't trust the mapping but it makes sense that the higher comp is the culprit.
Click to expand...

It is a good read, some unconventional wisdom.

Ill take a pic of my 1st 104mm piston when I get home, 40 hours on it and no blow by! Some mad galling on the skirt from the big end disaster.

Bushie put me on to that link originally.
 
I can buy a used jd jetting kit from someone who sold his 570 for 100€....
I might buy it if it's any good to get it mapped on dynoa with that...
 
I am also busy doing seat mod I received a new 2011 seat (looks better than 2010) and I will replace my stock seatcover with a black one and do the seatmod:)
 
For a piggy back the jd seems to have the goods, wouldnt waste $$ on the KTM UST if I was going to do it again.

Id get a dyno run to confirm AFR first.

Slight thread jack but here is my used 104mm piston


Zero blow by (end thread jack)
 
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that's nice
I have fmf headers o my bike so I can't get a good a/f reading on the dyno because there is no hole to mount sensor...
Or is it enough to do a run with tube in the exhaust to measure a/f....
Had tot tighten the chain again this thing just eats chains :rolleyes:
and it's already one of the heavy'r wider/stronger 520 chains available...
(ek mvxz)
Maybe I will try the heavy duty ek zzz next highest tensile strength 520 chain available wit 9400lbs (for comparison a did erv3 that some people use on 1000 superbikes has tensile strength 8660) but is much lighter than the ek chains/lower roll resistance...
 

1st oil change
Some brake cleaner and the filter was clean again no metal I think a piece of rag or paper was left in the engine...

The magnet had some very small metal on them but nothing I worry about



The DJH tensioner notice I managed to damage the anodised finish already:rolleyes:

The complete bike like it is now wit the new 2011 seat
 
Looks GOOD! Really good.

Maybe the chain is too tight? That'll wear it out pretty fast. Are the sprockets fresh?

Dirt Tricks Ironman sprockets are SUPER hard and last very long - tens of thousands of km! seriously! on a KTM 520 in the dirt!, see reference/pic from Neduro on ADVrider.com. With a long-lasting sprocket then intact teeth are driving the chain so the chain lasts longer.
 
thx looks pretty stock in those colors (but it isn't realy:p )
I follow the instructions on the swingarm to get correct tension (8-10mm) and mostly I am around or over 10mm so I do'nt think run it to tight in the pic above I just "tightened" the chain....
I will go for a small ride and lube the chain and keep an eye on it how long it takes for the chain to get way to loose again... I am currently running steel sprocket in the rear installed with the new chain ) I will look for those sprockets when I get a new set :)
And front sprocket I always use stock are there any harder/better available ? :)
 
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I just tested my new cam (contour +2) handy feature gps because my speedometer is broken now I know how fast I go after I watch video lol
It's geared pretty long did 155 km/h at +- 7500rpm at that rpm I should have aprox 60 hp but the bike didn't pull that strong anymore....
Well the last time I was riding a bike it was on a gixxer 1000 wit 185 hp maybe that's why it feels a little slow:p
In the slow/twisty stuff it's more than fast enough;)
 
any advice on seat mod tools to use things to pay attention to....
Not worried about damaging the seat cover because it will be replaced I already marked the lines where I would cut it at the underside of the seat....
How do you make a clean cut through the foam and what to use to ct through plastic I tryed a knife but it would take forever to go through...
 
I checked the valves
The exhaust valves are at left .14 right .13 so nice in spec (minimum .12) the inlets are .10 leftt (a little sticky) .10 right VERY sticky the .10 gauge barely goes under...
Should I go one bigger or leave it this way....
It only goes in .05 incremenst so than it would be around max clearance:rolleyes:
 
You can find chims with smaller increments than KTM's 0.05, but in your case I wouldn't bother. VERY sticky .10 is just fine imho.
 
I adjusted the idle 4 clicks counter clockwise and the bike already runs much smoother now.
I am waiting for the jd jetting kit to arrive...
Very curious about the results after getting it dyno'd.
Also received a 44t rear supersprox sprocket in the mail today will get me some dirttricks ironman front sprockets and rk superstrong zzz 520 chain to.
Hope to get 100+ hours out of the chain/sprockets.
 

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