FE 450, 2005, Force Edition

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well if the stroke is 0.7mm longer that then means that the throw is only 0.35mm taller and quite frankly Husaberg leave that kind of space at the top.

Taffy
 
Well...as of today I have all the parts for the rebuild. What I don't have now is a significant amount of cash. :shock:

A question:

- Is the 2002 FE 400 frame same as the 2004?

I still owe you guys some piston and cam chain weights, couldn't find a precise scale but I'm working on it....

Cheers!

M.

edelweiss said:
very intersting topic here, I like your approach to this restoration, the force edition deserves reasonable amount of dedication. May Dingac lead your hands to successful finale.

Thanks edelweiss! Nice to see that Slovakian people appreciate Croatian wine.... :)

M.
 
the 2004 has a steeper head angle and a different mount for the coil underneath the middle beam. there's a good photo of the two bikes next to each other in the doc.

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks Taffy!

Would you consider this 400 '02 frame better for enduro riding than a 2004 frame?
 
my 2004 450 was by far the best handling of all my bergs (also the newest). it was easier to turn than any of my earlier models.
 
Nex ProX piston (#1 labelled @ 99,94 mm) > brand new cilinder liner (#1 100mm) tolerance = 0,08 mm

The assembly starts....

M.
 
First all of the bolts got a good wirebrushed...



A tool was made....



The chassis got protected from scratches by carbon lookalike stickers...





New main bearings in....



New oil passage.....don't know the english word....the yellow thingie... :D



Crank axial play measured incorrectly, the magneto stand should be on the engine surface, for.ex. the gearbox bearing, to achieve magnetism and the engine blocks should be flipped to the side in the engine holding thingie... :)




Axial play = 0,47mm
This looks and feels like a huge play, a silly question, it surely shouldn't be 0,045-0,055mm?
During axial play adjustment the inner bearing race got discoloured from the heat (like burnt oil), it took me twice taking it off to get the correct play, is that a problem?



Gearbox - check, crank - check, new liner with new o-rings - check







From below...



From above...



I stopped here for the day, as I have one more question for you knowledgeable people....for now... :D

- the manual says to oil the liner o-rings and the owners doc recommends them coated by silicone....which way to go as the sealant doesn't like the oily stuff?

Cheers!

M.
 
V nice pics!

if the o rings are new like yours then oil allows them to move as the cases/liner expand = better idea

but if there are any nicks in the o rings or in the sealing surface of the cases then oil won't help ... need silicone for that.

yes its true .47mm feels like 1mm... try 1mm it feels like 3 , I got my wife to try it and told her the axial play was 10mm, thought she might be impressed later :twisted:

the discoloration is usuallly OK as long as the colour has no substantial areas of blue or purple tinge to it

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_%28metallurgy%29
 
bushmechanic said:
yes its true .47mm feels like 1mm... try 1mm it feels like 3 , I got my wife to try it and told her the axial play was 10mm, thought she might be impressed later :twisted:

:lol: :lol:

Did that a couple of times, doubt that she'll buy it again... :?
 
I have a problem with the left side engine cover.....while extracting the small needle bearing in the cover, the one without an aluminum bush, it seems that the machine shop guy overheated the material. Now the bearing goes in way too easily. Is it ok to put in the same alu bush as the other one has? Or maybe an steel one?

Thanks!

M.
 
bushmechanic said:
perhaps try loctite # 609 ?

if the metals are thoroughly de greased and lightly roughed up with #400 sandpaper it is insanely strong

As I had real trouble getting it out, I'm more fond of a solution with the alu bush. That way, when replacing it again I don't have to worry much about damaging the casing, as the machine shop did this time out.

Did some work....

I decided to stick with 0,47 mm axial clearance, not to disrespect all of your advice, but because I figured it is still more than the manual says, I don't intend to push the bike that hard....I'm quite an average rider and I intend to take good care of it....not letting it overheat, regular oil changes, quality oil, etc. Also, there's only one shim (0,15mm) left on the ignition side.....













At this point I have to stop working on the engine and pull the head off again... :angry:

It seems I ordered a wrong head gasket, a 501 one....so it'll take two weeks for a new one to arrive. I'm also waiting for the alu bush, then I have to get the cover machined and I'm missing the little spring off of the kick starter system.....looks like I lost it somewhere.... :evil:

Oh, well.....I'll do some more chassis work, cleaning and stuff, sorting the wiring and other stuff....

I wish you all a Happy New Year and a bunch of good stuff in 2014. Motorcycle related and not.

Cheers!

M.
 
Oh, yeah..... I'd be interested in fitting a ventilator to the radiator....is it doable? Is there any info on what vent fits?

Also, I'd be interested in buying an aux under seat tank....so if anyone has one to sell please let me know!

M.
 
.47 is good i reckon :cheers:

that engine looks far to clean, im betting it will refuse to start so it doesn't soil itself :D

vent? you mean a fan?

fan_kit2.jpg
 
bushmechanic said:
.47 is good i reckon :cheers:

that engine looks far to clean, im betting it will refuse to start so it doesn't soil itself :D

vent? you mean a fan?

fan_kit2.jpg

Bite your tongue..... :p

Yes, I mean a fan.....sorry, sometimes my English just stalls... :D

M.
 

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