FE 450, 2005, Force Edition

Hello again!

Managed to replace wheel bearings, seals and I've put a new circlip in. Cleaned spokes and rims and found a few loose spokes, tightened them up by comparing the feel with others, hopefully that will be enough. Opted for NTN bearings and Corteco seals, quality stuff my local bearing shop says.....







Cleaned the head, valve guides don't need replacing so I don't feel like pressing them out so thats the only area that I couldn't clean proprely.....will need to buy a Biax "attachment" that'll get the job done. New valves, grinding paste, new springs with cups and valve seals wait patiently for me to finish the cleaning...









I "pushed" the head/cylinder sealing area on a piece of glass and 600 grit sand paper to make sure that its nice and flat, and it is.... :cheers:

Last post I asked a question about setting spring preload on the forks, here's the pic of the forks.....what's the "nut" below the clicker....is it maybe the way of setting spring preload?



Cheers all!

M.

Yes, that nut controls spring preload.

Hello!

Slow progress....small end pin, head and waterpump shaft are at a machine shop, small end pin is getting widened, valve seats are getting reground ( correct spelling??) and the waterpump shaft is being repaired - seal left a mark on the shaft and I want to make sure the new seal is going to do the job properly....

While waiting I+m looking for some crank bearings....what do you people think about SKF 206EC/DVC025? Any other suggestion, or even better a correct code of another bearing that fits and does the job? :mrgreen:

M.

all bar orangeberg find the OEM bearing that you mention just fine. all problems were traced to lack of crank lateral float.

Taffy

Cheers all!

It's been a long time. Some progress has been made but still a long way from finished.

Won't bother you with text, mostly pics....

Hard to find good help these day's..... :mrgreen:



Valve seats reground, chambers cleaned, cylinder-head mating area machined straight....nex ProX valves, Permatex valve grinding paste, new seals, new springs.....



Cylinder lightly honed.....I find this crappy. First of all it's not supposed to be honed (did it out of curiosity), marks still visible, nicasil coat isn't there any more. A man would be really silly to put this back in.....I'd bet a new piston wouldn't last more than 30 hours in a cylinder like this. New one it is.....



Water pump shaft had marks where the seal is seated, just right from the o-ring. Area polished and I found out that a seal off of Minarelli 50 ccm scooter waterpump fits right in, it's a bit wider and the lip of the seal sits just a couple of thousands away from the place where the oem seal sits. Will post more info on that...



KTM special tools my ass..... :twisted: The one on the left is made in a hurry and from wrong material, it does the job but with a lot of hassle. Bought some decent aluminium and my friend mechanic and me are gonna get new ones....real, precise, quality stuff.....looking forward to that....



New black real sprocket, fits with Force edition color scheme, couldn't resist.....bling, bling.... :mrgreen:



New steering head bearings, new swingarm bearings, swingarm and shock cleaned and shiny.... shock clickers set to factory setup, preload + 2mm, as a start for further tuning once the bike is completed....



New grips and levers, new battery in the computer, started to sort out the wiring, front brake caliper and pump, clutch pump....everything disassembled, checked, cleaned....new brake oil, new brake pad shafts........











Sorry for the ****** pics, better some than non.... :mrgreen:

Now about some problems....

1. Lack of cash...will accept donations......

2. The little end bush on the conrod that I got from Taffy, as I said earlier, is a bit tight on the inner diameter, maybe 0,01-0,02 mm....to machine it properly the conrod has to be pressed out. Didn't want to do this as the big end is good. My friend mechanic found an old craftsman that had a hand tool, selfcentering, that did the job (sorry, don't know the name of the tool in english)...so heads up, it can be done with the crank assembled but it's a lot easier if conrod is pressed out.....

3. The forks...... model 12.45.Y7.22, can't find factory setup, in the Rep Man there are three other models listed but not this one.....I would like to set it to factory settings as a start for further personalization, same as shock..... Also, rebound clickers (top of fork) are hard to turn and I can turn them only a few clicks in both directions, tried with a bit of WD40 and compressed air as I hoped their just stuck from dirt but noup.....?? Advice anyone?

That's it for now, will update.....well....no, one more thing....



I find this move from Mr. Pierer a bunch of capitalist bull sh*t.... with due respect to Husqvarna.

Regards,

M.

One more question....what crank end float is suggested for 2004/2005 FE450 models?

Thanks!

M.

Fun - thanks for posting these

Anthon Berg said:

Fun - thanks for posting these

Click to expand...

No problem...... I hoped that people would take part with more comments....maybe even some answers for the questions I have...













M.

you want about .45 - .55mm crank float with roller mains

Taffy

Taffy said:

you want about .45 - .55mm crank float with roller mains

Taffy

Click to expand...

Thanks Taffy!

.45-.55 mm seems like quite a big range. Would you advise to go more towards .45 or more towards .55?

Also, everybody, what is your experience with ProX pistons for Husaberg? Please share....

M.

makazica said:

Taffy said:

you want about .45 - .55mm crank float with roller mains

Taffy

Click to expand...

Thanks Taffy!

.45-.55 mm seems like quite a big range. Would you advise to go more towards .45 or more towards .55?

Also, everybody, what is your experience with ProX pistons for Husaberg? Please share....

Click to expand...

I remember ProX pistons being discussed here - here is one thread I could find - there is a pretty strong recommendation from ORANGEBERG in the last post on page 1: http://husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16975#p139870

nearer .55

don't know about prox, their stuff is good chinese kit. I use their pins and bearings for the big ends.

regards

Taffy

Thanks Anton & Taffy!

My plan is to go with the ProX piston (set) and to get a new cylinder. Than to save money for the OEM piston kit....
Wouldn't want the lesser quality of the ProX to mess up my brand new barrel....

M.

Hello everybody!

Couple of questions, help needed, please....

1. going through my gearbox I've found something odd. On the sprocket shaft, first gear next to the sprocket (or sixth gear looking from left to right) has 30z, I counted...
In the Parts manual there's a part code #800.33.011.033, that says 33Z. Page nr. 74 in the 2004 FE Parts manual.... WTF??

2. How do I remove the small needle bearings from the left side casing, nr. 60, on the page 54 of the Parts manual, part code # 800.40.060.000

I'm stuck with these and can't go forward with the assembly until I figure it out..... :angry:

Cheers!

M.

re. 1 - that's funny on this page is a table of the stock teeth on the gear ratios, under "Close ratio sixth gear": http://husaberg.org/wiki/index.php?title=Engine_tuning - does it help make sende of the situation? 2nd gear is at the end and is 17/30 ...

... And sometimes manuals have typos?

Thanks Anton!

This helped me to trace the problem! Heads up, in the Parts manual for FE 450 2004, page 74, part under # 11, part number 800.33.011.033 is named "Idler gear 1st G 33 T" and that is wrong as far as I understand.

In the Parts manual for the FE 450 2005, same part is marked with #12, page 74, part number 800.33.012.30 and is named "Idler gear 2nd G 30 T" which is correct.

It is obvious that in the Parts manual for the year 2004 they mixed nr. 11 and nr. 12 when marking gears on the graphic scheme.

That solves one of my problems, now I know I have to order a cheaper gear, cheaper by cca 5€..... :cry:

Can somebody help with problem #2? How to get those little needle bearings out of the left side casing? The ones the torque limiter shaft sits....?

Cheers!

M.

Hmm - I haven't been inside a motor yet, let alone a 'Berg motor ... so just trying to guess / come up with ideas. Did you heat the cases to 150 deg. C? Maybe heat and use a magnet / pliers? Would that make any sense at all?

- You have the repair manual, right?

go into the owner's doc
go into tuning
http://husaberg.org/wiki/index.php?title=Engine_tuning
you seem to be reading from the wrong end.

always read as if sat on the bike OK?
1-5-3-4-6-2 are the gears as you go left to right.

regards

Taffy

Taffy,

I'll post pics later but I don't think I counted wrong.
The 2nd gear "sprocket" is the first from the right side, or first next to the drive sprocket. Also, it's the sixth if counted from the left (proper way to count it).

I downloaded the 2004 Parts Manual off the "Husaberg Older documents" web site....

M.

Any news my friend?