bushmechanic said:
Sounds like the start of an OZ Force ride 2012 :idea:
Is that a lizzard or a bottle opener on your front mud guard Bushie? :wink:
Bushmechanic frame Build pics and Stuff
- Thread starter bushmechanic
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build bushmechanic frame pics stuff
Sounds like the start of an OZ Force ride 2012 :idea:
Is that a lizzard or a bottle opener on your front mud guard Bushie? :wink:
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
could be both
I can find some goat trails near kambalda for you Davo if you want to bring a leash and bump up your herd numbers
I can find some goat trails near kambalda for you Davo if you want to bring a leash and bump up your herd numbers
Joined Jun 2005
449 Posts | 1+
Kings Farth
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
hey thats very interesting wood Smorgy I'll try and get hold of some to play around with
bushmechanic said:could be both
I can find some goat trails near kambalda for you Davo if you want to bring a leash and bump up your herd numbers
Baaaaaaa
Joined Aug 2009
1K Posts | 346+
Charters Towers, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
steve said:
cool Ive seen some pictures of bamboo pushbikes somewhere too
Davo are you bringing the goat to tow start your bike when the burn in for WA conditions flattens your battery?
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Hi good people of the UHE !
I need some help: Id like some info on the new bikes airfilter sizing. if some one could measure one up It would be a great help, if anyone can be bothered I'd like to know the length, width and depth (max height) as installed in the bike.
working out how to fit in a Carbon airbox and some fuel tanks, just looking for an easy way to have a bigger airfilter without making up a custom one.
Thank you!
I need some help: Id like some info on the new bikes airfilter sizing. if some one could measure one up It would be a great help, if anyone can be bothered I'd like to know the length, width and depth (max height) as installed in the bike.
working out how to fit in a Carbon airbox and some fuel tanks, just looking for an easy way to have a bigger airfilter without making up a custom one.
Thank you!
I can post you one of my spare airfilters and the spare Filter Support Frame I have too. You can use it to make a template and post it back.
PM me your postal address.
Or I can take some measurements if that is all you need. Let me know?
The postage cost can be my down payment on a can of Emu Export from your shed.
Davo.
PM me your postal address.
Or I can take some measurements if that is all you need. Let me know?
The postage cost can be my down payment on a can of Emu Export from your shed.
Davo.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
hey Davo ! thats a very generous offer 8O and very much appreciated too
if it won't fit though then the postage will go to waste, don't worry I have a carton of emu export earmarked fit for consumption by Eastern block dwellers :twisted:
pretty sure the length will be ok she can take 16 inches but the width im not so sure theres enough between room between the hips
just a quick measure will be great, Thank you!
if it won't fit though then the postage will go to waste, don't worry I have a carton of emu export earmarked fit for consumption by Eastern block dwellers :twisted:
pretty sure the length will be ok she can take 16 inches but the width im not so sure theres enough between room between the hips
just a quick measure will be great, Thank you!
Hi Bushie,
Free standing with the Filter Support Frame on the Air Filter measures:
163mm at the widest part
258mm long
Roughly 100mm wide at the small section (hard to measure as the corners are not sharp)
The Filter sits 80mm high, but the little ridge of the Filter Support Frame sits in the Air Box by 10mm. So the Filter sits 70mm high from the foam that seals to the base of the Air Box. The foam compresses a little when locked in but I am not sure how much. I would guess it would only be a 1~2mm so the Filter sits 69~68mm high.
The Filter gets squeezed width ways when inserted into the bike. So the width is 155mm at the widest part when inserted in the Air Box. It could probably get squeezed a bit more if you needed. Let me know if you need it squeezed more I will take another measurement?
I measured the black parts of the Filter Support Frame that sit down into the Air Box so you can get an idea of the Air Box dimensions:
115mm wide
199mm long
Free standing with the Filter Support Frame on the Air Filter measures:
163mm at the widest part
258mm long
Roughly 100mm wide at the small section (hard to measure as the corners are not sharp)
The Filter sits 80mm high, but the little ridge of the Filter Support Frame sits in the Air Box by 10mm. So the Filter sits 70mm high from the foam that seals to the base of the Air Box. The foam compresses a little when locked in but I am not sure how much. I would guess it would only be a 1~2mm so the Filter sits 69~68mm high.
The Filter gets squeezed width ways when inserted into the bike. So the width is 155mm at the widest part when inserted in the Air Box. It could probably get squeezed a bit more if you needed. Let me know if you need it squeezed more I will take another measurement?
I measured the black parts of the Filter Support Frame that sit down into the Air Box so you can get an idea of the Air Box dimensions:
115mm wide
199mm long
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Wow Thanks Davo
great detailed information all very much appreciated, its going to be very tight but I think it will work
will let you know how it turns out
Cheers!
great detailed information all very much appreciated, its going to be very tight but I think it will work
will let you know how it turns out
Cheers!
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
where there is smoke there is fire :?
so maybe we don't need firecrackers afterall Dr_C
1300cc haybausa powered cr500 on the Bushmechanic Dyno, the finest braked friction dyno around for 500km :twisted:
Oh there is a bit of my bike right at the end
[youtube:260mil5d]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Slmc_Ny3kp0[/youtube:260mil5d]
so maybe we don't need firecrackers afterall Dr_C
1300cc haybausa powered cr500 on the Bushmechanic Dyno, the finest braked friction dyno around for 500km :twisted:
Oh there is a bit of my bike right at the end
[youtube:260mil5d]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Slmc_Ny3kp0[/youtube:260mil5d]
Joined Jun 2005
449 Posts | 1+
Kings Farth
You do not have to mix oil in the petrol for a hayabusa, that way it will smoke slightly less. Even a 2stroke dont need that much oil...
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
hes running delo 400 at 18:1 we were after more smoke if possible with a slightly purple tint ?
hypoid diff oil maybe ?
on a serious note the IRC M5B holds up Ok on the hard stuff, super grip after the first dyno run, even the big busa needed some armour all to spin it up hot
hypoid diff oil maybe ?
on a serious note the IRC M5B holds up Ok on the hard stuff, super grip after the first dyno run, even the big busa needed some armour all to spin it up hot
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
eventually I got pissed off with 3.8L fuel capacity, carying 10L in a backpack isn't fun.
making 3 tanks as one offs with styrene cores should end up 8-9L and nice low, central position, the alloy rear subtank was too far back to be putting weight up that high. front tank is in an evil spot but only about 2.5L and takes care of the filler position
front of the frame was too low to rest the seat on without oversteer so made up a plywood block to replace the oregon 4bie2, looks dodgy and works sensationally, perfect! the top of the plywood is where I should have put the top rails of the frame. getting the seat right first go will have to wait for next time :lol:
I bought an acerbis "dry break conversion cap" from ebay, was pretty well priced but a huge lump of alloy total weight nearly 300 gm and I couldn't find any marine deck mounts that I liked so I made a mold of the top of my old tank and cast a milled CF/Epoxy lid threaded section to take the old cap.
more pics soon, another beautiful day in paradise no time to make anything I gotta go for a ride
making 3 tanks as one offs with styrene cores should end up 8-9L and nice low, central position, the alloy rear subtank was too far back to be putting weight up that high. front tank is in an evil spot but only about 2.5L and takes care of the filler position
front of the frame was too low to rest the seat on without oversteer so made up a plywood block to replace the oregon 4bie2, looks dodgy and works sensationally, perfect!
the top of the plywood is where I should have put the top rails of the frame. getting the seat right first go will have to wait for next time :lol:
I bought an acerbis "dry break conversion cap" from ebay, was pretty well priced but a huge lump of alloy total weight nearly 300 gm and I couldn't find any marine deck mounts that I liked so I made a mold of the top of my old tank and cast a milled CF/Epoxy lid threaded section to take the old cap.
more pics soon, another beautiful day in paradise no time to make anything I gotta go for a ride
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
got some more done on the tanks
Plugs finished fine tuned with plasticene and sprayed with mold release (PVA/metho/food colouring)
and starting layup first a layer of 2oz glass to add some strength to the plugs then 3-4 layers 6oz twill CF, 6oz plain weave Kevlar in wear or impact zones and a hybrid cloth over the top, 2x2 6OZ twill half CF and half Blue kevlar, could look a bit Gay
more pics soon they're almost finished, LHS tank 2L RHS tank 4.3L and front tank 3L total weight of all 3 tanks 1kg, and 9L capacity.
I got a Smoking deal on a set of Ohlins RXF forks, golden bling front and rear needs a pic too I guess. performance wise they are on par with my pressurized long travel OCs for consistency and feel (better than jap or WP TCs) but I like the progression of the TC design through the stroke so its the best of both worlds with the TTX inserts in the RXF outers there could be a little more plushness to coax out of them too.
also more pics soon in the 700 thread, this blasted new chassis lets me use all the horsies at once and with a semi proper cam it really honks mains are copping a flogging and I broke an entire tooth off 4th, she has some grunt :twisted:
Plugs finished fine tuned with plasticene and sprayed with mold release (PVA/metho/food colouring)
and starting layup first a layer of 2oz glass to add some strength to the plugs then 3-4 layers 6oz twill CF, 6oz plain weave Kevlar in wear or impact zones and a hybrid cloth over the top, 2x2 6OZ twill half CF and half Blue kevlar, could look a bit Gay
more pics soon they're almost finished, LHS tank 2L RHS tank 4.3L and front tank 3L total weight of all 3 tanks 1kg, and 9L capacity.
I got a Smoking deal on a set of Ohlins RXF forks, golden bling front and rear needs a pic too I guess. performance wise they are on par with my pressurized long travel OCs for consistency and feel (better than jap or WP TCs) but I like the progression of the TC design through the stroke so its the best of both worlds with the TTX inserts in the RXF outers there could be a little more plushness to coax out of them too.
also more pics soon in the 700 thread, this blasted new chassis lets me use all the horsies at once and with a semi proper cam it really honks mains are copping a flogging and I broke an entire tooth off 4th, she has some grunt :twisted:
Groovy dude...... looking good. Keep putting all them fancypantsy looking products (kevlarcarbonohlinsgoldnessblingthings) on there bushie an ya guna ruin ya reputation bro.
On a serious note,Whats the plan for connecting all three tanks? three separate taps or connect 2 tanks an leave the third as reserve maybe? (cant see you using 3 taps with your weight obsesscion).
Is 4th the first gear youve broken? (the downside to torque)
from experiance, missed shifts tend to chip rather than break teeth, but why only 1 tooth I wonder, I have seen all the teeth fall (allright they were pushed by a turbo and big bottle of nitros that were never designed to be there)off a gear before but that was under sumwhat more stress than designed. Has fourth had many missed shifts?
On a serious note,Whats the plan for connecting all three tanks? three separate taps or connect 2 tanks an leave the third as reserve maybe? (cant see you using 3 taps with your weight obsesscion).
Is 4th the first gear youve broken? (the downside to torque)
from experiance, missed shifts tend to chip rather than break teeth, but why only 1 tooth I wonder, I have seen all the teeth fall (allright they were pushed by a turbo and big bottle of nitros that were never designed to be there)off a gear before but that was under sumwhat more stress than designed. Has fourth had many missed shifts?
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Hey Bergbro,
4 failures in total, first 3 were 3rd or 4th dogs Ive beefed up the circlips stop discs, detent arm springs and reprofiled the shift star, since then no more missed shifts so this is the first tooth
all the grip of the paddle in sand and lots a torque. ever noticed how the big HP roadies have a real big pinion on the crank its to reduce the tourque that the box has to deal with. in oz some guys with tuned xs650s get special clutch gear and primary drive gears made up to do the same thing.
Ive just bought a complete hayabusa gearbox and clutch from ebay its clutch converted to auto and 4th 5th 6th are going to be the drivetrain for a lightweight "bitsa" bushmech engine, gotta have something to do to stop me watching telly
the gear that broke came out of another bike so i dunno its history, no missed shifts since it went in my tractor.
alternatively to going busa box I could have a new berg box properly heat treated cryoed and micropolished beacuse the gears are quite brittle and very poorly finished but I think at the end of the day the Busa box is the go.
as Dr-C and Smorgy have pointed out numerous times I should also have a cush hub or sprocket. Im getting there slowly, tanks are more important ATM.
4 failures in total, first 3 were 3rd or 4th dogs Ive beefed up the circlips stop discs, detent arm springs and reprofiled the shift star, since then no more missed shifts so this is the first tooth
all the grip of the paddle in sand and lots a torque. ever noticed how the big HP roadies have a real big pinion on the crank its to reduce the tourque that the box has to deal with. in oz some guys with tuned xs650s get special clutch gear and primary drive gears made up to do the same thing.
Ive just bought a complete hayabusa gearbox and clutch from ebay its clutch converted to auto and 4th 5th 6th are going to be the drivetrain for a lightweight "bitsa" bushmech engine, gotta have something to do to stop me watching telly
the gear that broke came out of another bike so i dunno its history, no missed shifts since it went in my tractor.
alternatively to going busa box I could have a new berg box properly heat treated cryoed and micropolished beacuse the gears are quite brittle and very poorly finished but I think at the end of the day the Busa box is the go.
as Dr-C and Smorgy have pointed out numerous times I should also have a cush hub or sprocket. Im getting there slowly,
tanks are more important ATM.Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
