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2003 FS 650 extremely hard to start

B

Bonnis

Joined Jul 2010
7 Posts | 0+
Norway
Hi

I'm having difficulities starting my newly bought 650. Even when it's warm it is impossible to start it on the button, even when connected to a car battery. The spark seems a bit weak as well (with a new plug).

Any recommendations? I must have a bike that starts every time on the button, but now it's almost not even starting on the kick. Will a Beefy/R6 starter do the trick? What is recommended?

Thanks for any replies :)
 
My 02 FE501 was a pig to start. Did all the mods / valves / crescent mod / dutch clog.
Weak spark - thought that was normal, then my stator went - put a new (second hand SEM in) FANTASTIC. Who cares about the e start. Picked up 1st kick.

The UHE said..oh dear ..should have gone to Taffy/Sparks stator - re wind..SEM are rubbish.

1 year on the SEM packed in - got a re-wound Taffy/Sparks ...even better, just have to look at it & it starts.

I nearly jacked Husabergs in due to poor starting / Not now though - Stator Stator Stator.

Not cheap so if you had a mate who'd lend you one, you'd know for sure - less than 1/2 hr to swap over.

(After all that someones bound to say bergs gave up on stators after 02 ??doh)
 
Thanks for quick response! :)

What is UHE and SEM?

I've mailed Taffy, and he said that if the bike starts for 1 sec and then stops, it's probably the stator. On my bike, when it first starts, it keeps going. So it's probably not the stator.. ?
 
UHE - thats the name of this site I think Unofficial Husaberg E?????
SEM is the stock manufacturer of the stator. But they tend to be weak so Sparks re-winds them & Taffy stocks them & it's acknowledged that these are the best stators you can get.

My bike ran great once started even though I had noticed the spark seemed weak, thats why I persued all the other recommendations in the owners doc (look at this - find it on the left of the home page).

Search Arkley123 early posts - there is a technique to starting a poorly set up berg. Also the re-starters are rubbish unless the bike is a perfect set up hense the r6 uopgrade - see taffy) also jetting & valve adjustment but I'll stick my neck out and stick with stator.

Taken me 3 years to really find that out.

If you're going to kick (again with a poorly set up engine) must click round to find top dead centre on the compression stroke, go a mere tad past that then one good strong through kick. Dont stamp on it, just a long strong through kick.
 
I know how you feel, ive own my 2002 FS 650E for nearly 3 years it taken some time to get the knack of kicking it off but over time ive got it... i take it makes sense having fresh fuel in it, changing the spark plug once n in while get it to kick off in 1 or 2 kicks unlike the many times there trying to kick it off 20-30mins later...

People say if you can start one of these then you can start any bike, i think the people who stole my bike couldnt get it start it plus i think the fuel octane would have gone off a little, just lucklily i got it back...

You want to speak to Dave/David at Taffmeisters http://www.taffmeisters.co.uk/ or 01353 723883 speak to him he'll give you more of the information on his start from button trickery... I said i'll have this done one day...
 
Bonnis

you just need to set it all up sweet mate!

look in the doc for:
new ignition timing
tappet clearances = 1/6th of a turn
refresh the carb
iridium plugs
modify the starter clutch
modify the starter sprague
later auto decomp

regards

Taffy
 
That all sounds daunting.

It's not really, especially if you actually chat to someone.

They always say start with the easiest & simplest...I say start with the sator, everything else can follow but if the spark is weak.....

Perhaps you could find someone who'd do a sale or return??

In the doc it tells you how to test the stator & if you're not sure of the readings post them here & someone will explain. Not me though..too tekky for me.

Any road - I'm no mechanic but I do the easier things through here & the more complex I let Taffy do.
 
Wow, what a great forum you got here!

arkley123: I can't seem to find the technique to start a poorly set up bike. Will you please find it for me?

Thank you, taffy. But would you mind giving me a little description on 3 last things in the list? You don't think a rewound stator will do the trick?

I'm also unsure what is meant by "spraque" and i can't seem to translate it to norwegian (my language).
 
Try this for starters

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6622&start=30

also owners doc as stated.

plus search box top right of screen type "hard start" or e start or anything related. There is masses here.

Also please add your location to your signature.

Who knows, you might live next door to Taffy
 
I've got a R6 starter, shimmed starter clutch and starter sprague for sale if your interested, R6 starter obviously used, clutch never used since it was shimmed and sprague was brand new. Bought it for my 2002 engine, but then my 2008 engine blew up and ever since I have lot's of 2008 spare parts for my 2002 :) pm me if interested.
 
Hello again

I've adjusted the valves to 0,10 mm on each valve when it was on TDC. How accurate do you have to be on the TDC? There's no mark on the flywheel? Is it correct with 0,10mm? I see Taffy says 1/6th of a turn, what does this mean exactly? Fasten it tight, and then loosen it 2 hours on the clock?

I also adjusted the ignition timing. The mark on the stator was slightly past the right mark on the flywheel. When I set it right on it, it was even more difficult to start. I then set it a bit to the left (right between the two marks on the flyhweel) and then it started easier, but with a lot of bangs from the exhaust, even flames. This can't be correct? Hehe.

And the stator charges on 12,4 volt on idle and 13,8 volts with throttle. Is this normal? I will be checking the ohms on the cable soon, as Taffy have given me the correct numbers. :)

It would be very nice if someone could explain me what
"modify the starter clutch
modify the starter sprague
later auto decomp" involes. Since my english is not that great, and I'm all new on these bikes, it's a bit hard to understand.

I also miss the decomp wire and lever, is this something needed? Does Taffy provide these kind of parts?
See picture:
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/120/dsc02933x.jpg

I am maybe interested, BelgiqueBasterd if I need these parts, I'm really not sure. But I think I will go for Taffy's starter, as this is modified to be "plug and play" without any modifications. Or does the R6 starter run faster?

And again, thank you all for very helpful replies! I really hope I'll get a Berg which starts on the button every time. :)
 
Bonnis said:
Hello again

I've adjusted the valves to 0,10 mm on each valve when it was on TDC. How accurate do you have to be on the TDC?
NOT VERY

There's no mark on the flywheel? THERE ARE TWO MARKS ON THE FLYWHEEL

Is it correct with 0,10mm? I see Taffy says 1/6th of a turn, what does this mean exactly? Fasten it tight, and then loosen it 2 hours on the clock? 100% RIGHT

I also adjusted the ignition timing. The mark on the stator was slightly past the right mark on the flywheel. When I set it right on it, it was even more difficult to start. I then set it a bit to the left (right between the two marks on the flyhweel) and then it started easier, but with a lot of bangs from the exhaust, even flames. This can't be correct? Hehe. THE LOWER STATIC LINE OF THE STATOR NEEDS TO APPEAR TO BE ABOUT MIDWAY ACROSS THE WINDOW OR BETTER STILL 1mm TO THE LEFT OF CENTRE.

And the stator charges on 12,4 volt on idle and 13,8 volts with throttle. Is this normal? I will be checking the ohms on the cable soon, as Taffy have given me the correct numbers. :) GREAT!

It would be very nice if someone could explain me what
"modify the starter clutch -A GEAR INSIDE THE ENGINE
modify the starter sprague-ANOTHER GEAR INSIDE THE ENGINE
later auto decomp" involes. Since my english is not that great, and I'm all new on these bikes, it's a bit hard to understand. FIT AN AUTO DECOMP DEVICE FROM 2004 ONWARDS ON THE CAM. THE SPRING NEEDS STRENGTHENING A LITTLE THOUGH.

I also miss the decomp wire and lever, is this something needed? - NO

Does Taffy provide these kind of parts?
See picture:
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/120/dsc02933x.jpg

I am maybe interested, BelgiqueBasterd if I need these parts, I'm really not sure. But I think I will go for Taffy's starter, as this is modified to be "plug and play" without any modifications. Or does the R6 starter run faster? GUESS WHAT MY STARTERS ARE!!!!

And again, thank you all for very helpful replies! I really hope I'll get a Berg which starts on the button every time. :)
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for good information :)

What I ment was that there's no mark on the flywheel for when it is on TDC. Well, it doesn't matter really, since you said you don't need to be that accurate.

The starter is ordered. Let's hope it does the trick :)

Thanks for all replies so far
 
Bonnis said:
Thanks for good information :)

What I ment was that there's no mark on the flywheel for when it is on TDC. Well, it doesn't matter really, since you said you don't need to be that accurate.

The starter is ordered. Let's hope it does the trick :)

Thanks for all replies so far
Click to expand...
it is vital....
new+line+tipp+ex_d.JPG


regards

Taffy
 
Yesteday I received the Beefy starter from Taffy, but it didn't seem to solve my problem :?
It sounds like the starter runs just as fast as the old one, and there is no chance that it will start on the button. Not cold, not warm.

Here's a clip of how it sounds like:
[youtube:29ejecr7]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udhP6HKIQfA[/youtube:29ejecr7]

Any help is highly appreciated! Thank you in advance
 
wellit turns over quick enough.

ok two things. the auto decomp is too strong and won't stop decomping. check if you get a clack-clack noise at the lowest idle you dare run it at. if you do, soften the spring.

how much choke do you need?

have you replaced the parts in the carb?

regards

Taffy
 
I don't hear any click-clack sound. Listen for yourself:
[youtube:11f25kfw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_lNWcDPvZ8[/youtube:11f25kfw]

Do not need choke at all, just a little throttle.

Have not replaced or done anything to the carb.

The spark plug I bought from you is not working either. But with my old plug (NGK non-iridium) gives sparks both on the kickstarter and on the electrical one. Will you be sending me a new one, but first after I send you my broken one?

I also wonder why my start motor runs like this when the engine is cold?:
[youtube:11f25kfw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gsb0rJo-J_s[/youtube:11f25kfw]
When the motor is warm, it runs like the video i posted on first page.

I found out that the stator measured 2,79 ohms and 172 ohms. Is this good enough? The bike now starts easily on the kick, but not on the electric.
 
Sprague is slipping, look in the following thread, there's a youtube clip in there from my engine without the side cover and a slipping sprague, makes the exact same sound.

http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10619&p=90487&hilit=sprague#p90487

Never did get it working tough, installed R6 starter motor, new sprague, shimmed the torque thingie and superduper battery. I'm thinking that the R6 starter doesn't spin the motor fast enough to get a spark from the old SEM ign. Kickstarted very easy so gave up in the end.
 
firstly as said above you have a sprague slipping. I do a kit that repairs this and also the gear between the sprague and the starter motor called the 'starter clutch'. you can also find info here to repair the starter clutch but I have to say the spring on the sprague is the real culprit - it's weak.

you need to mark the flywheel as I say and then to use a timing light in order to set the ignition timing. it wants to be 6d before top dead centre (BTDC).

the reading on your stator is not unusaual but we have a saying: how long is a piece of string?

so I'm not sure at which point the STATOR ALONE becomes the weakness. when?

get the sprague and starter clutch repaired, set the ignition timing and then take it from there.

as for the plug, I'd like it back as I can claim on it and I will send you another one out no problem. :D :D

regards

Taffy
 
I put both those tiny shims out of the Taffmeisters kit in and got the tension above the recommended torque in the vice as the instructions said and put the new spring on the outside of the sprague and double checked the retainer was located correctly centreing it all. New battery and she still spins, it will wind the engine over one turn or sometimes 2 before it lets go. I'm thinking do i pull it down again and put even more shims in the starter clutch or do I sell the bloody thing as a bad joke and buy a reliable bike???
 

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