0 hours on a FE390

Interesting - I can't see one fitted in my end cap and I didn't get one in the box of bits that came with the bike. Maybe they don't come with the UK bikes?

The exhaust actually sounds pretty quiet to me as it is (can hardly hear it over the intake roar most of the time). Is the extra muffling for use in some areas which have specific noise restrictions (ISTR there are areas in the US and Oz where you might get tested for noise)? Or are there some competitions where the standard exhaust might be too noisy?

In the USA any bike that goes for EPA/FMVSS compliance gets tested on a dyno at certain speeds. Husky puts a throttle limiter on some of their bikes so the testers can't open the throttle far enough to make it loud. And of course it is illegal to remove that throttle stop, but most of the dealers do it - if they don't then the owners do.

DItto with gearing - some of the bikes have really high gearing and lean fuel to pass the tests - again something that most of the time is changed before the owner takes delivery.

If you think the intake is loud as it is, try it with a hole in the seat - much louder, but it also makes a difference in power.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12751&p=108274#p108274

Cost-effective extra fuel carrying question :

with all the bling of safari side fuel tanks and sub frame tanks that are $$$, for the average trail rider, whats wrong with putting a 5 or 10 litre plastic jerry can on the very rear of the seat - the grab area underneath is perfect for routing a couple of tension straps.

Anyone else strap on a plastic fuel can - issues? Having the 10 litre Safari tank on 1 side has a weight distribution issue surely?

Regards
Fizz.

fizz said:

with all the bling of safari side fuel tanks and sub frame tanks that are $$$, for the average trail rider, whats wrong with putting a 5 or 10 litre plastic jerry can on the very rear of the seat - the grab area underneath is perfect for routing a couple of tension straps.

Anyone else strap on a plastic fuel can - issues? Having the 10 litre Safari tank on 1 side has a weight distribution issue surely?

Click to expand...

The 10L Safari rear tank is on one side only? The pictures I've seen look as though it goes down both sides of the bike so the fuel (and weight) would be evenly distributed on both sides. Is that not right?

As far as putting a can on the seat, that may be ok for some people but I already have problems getting my leg over the bike (I'm on tiptoes to hold it up once I'm sitting on it even with the suspension compressed). So anything which adds to the height would make it very tricky. The only way might be if I could bend my knee far enough forward to pass the boot in front of the can rather than over it, but I think it might then have to be further back than I'd want to put weight that high up on the bike (both to avoid upsetting the handling and cos I don't think it feels all that strong back behind the seat). I guess if you're taller than me and the can isn't too thick (or you're prepared to hop about facing the bike and putting your leg straight over) it might work ok. I know someone makes quite thin fuel containers, similar sort of shape to a brief case, so one of those might not be too bad.

Since I already have the sub-frame tank on order that's obviously the route I'll be taking, as that won't make it any harder for me to get on and off the bike. If I just wanted a little more range than I had in the fuel tank(s) I'd probably carry some bottles of fuel in my Mojavi saddlebags.

Both Safari tanks are wraparound; they contain fuel on both sides.

CodeMonkey said:

Both Safari tanks are wraparound; they contain fuel on both sides.

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Now I am confused; in the link, it looks like its a one side bolt on unit for $AU604. Doesn't look like wrap around in the picture? Do you buy one for each side at $AU1,208?

http://www.safaritanks.com.au/home/13-H ... e.tpl.html

Thanx in advance
Fizz

Looking at the lower picture on this page it sure looks like it wraps around both sides and is a single molded unit, so I can't see that you need to buy two.

http://www.adventure-spec.com/shop/...rbis-ims-7-5-litre-saddle-tanks/prod_259.html

Still not what you'd call cheap, but additional tanks never seem to be.

petem said:

Looking at the lower picture on this page it sure looks like it wraps around both sides and is a single molded unit, so I can't see that you need to buy two.

http://www.adventure-spec.com/shop/...rbis-ims-7-5-litre-saddle-tanks/prod_259.html

Still not what you'd call cheap, but additional tanks never seem to be.

Click to expand...

Thanx Dude,

a picture (taken at the correct angle) says a thousand words. That first pic taken from the side is just confusing without having the other overhead picture. Thanx again for sourcing the better pic.

Regards
Fizz

petem said:

..........If I just wanted a little more range than I had in the fuel tank(s) I'd probably carry some bottles of fuel in my Mojavi saddlebags.....

Click to expand...

I just googled your saddlebags and they look exactly like what I need for 1 day'ers to minimize backpack weight so I can store 3 litre water bladder and a 2* 1 litre MSR fuel bottles. Have you got any pics of the bags on your bike, and how do you like them?

Regards
Fizz

Didn't have any photos of them, but I do now! I think this is my first post with pics attached so fingers crossed.

I've had the Mojavis for three weeks now and so far so good. They have a couple of clips that fit around the top of the rear fender then straps at the bottom of each saddlebag go around the frame and pull the bags forward so the clips on top stay in place as they're under tension. I put some silver duck tape where the clips go to stop them damaging the edge of the plastic there, and I've put on some number plate background stickers on to stop them rubbing on the rest of the plastic

It seems to work really well as they feel solidly attached and I've never noticed them moving about at all when I'm riding. I wasn't sure whether the back of my boots would clear them but I've not felt any contact when riding either sitting down or standing, except on a really steep downslope when I was leaning right back and they actually helped then as it was something to brace the backs of my boots against.

I'd guess there's enough room for most people to carry everything they need for a day out. I leave the small pouch on top empty so it won't get in the way when I'm getting on and off, but if you're taller that shouldn't be a problem. You also have control over how far back they sit so you could move them back a bit further, I just didn't want to have them over the gap in the panel near the exhaust in case they cooked.

They're best described as water-resistant rather than waterproof so I wrap the contents in plastic bags. The zips do look waterproof, but ISTR there was something in the instructions about how to make the seams more water-resistant if you want to. So far I've only found them damp inside after washing the bike when they've had a good hosing down, but it hasn't been raining much recently so a little damp may get in on wet rides too.

Overall, they are just what I wanted - don't affect your riding and have enough room to carry more tools, spares etc. than I'd normally need (they're half empty at the moment so the cinch straps are useful to stop the bags flapping around). You do have to loosen the front straps and slide the bags back to remove the seat if they're fitted over the back of it but I can live with that.

[attachment=2:3pirw23l]P1000705-small.jpg[/attachment:3pirw23l]
[attachment=1:3pirw23l]P1000706-small.jpg[/attachment:3pirw23l]
[attachment=0:3pirw23l]P1000707-small.jpg[/attachment:3pirw23l]

BTW in case it's not obvious in Pic 1, I took the clips off the fender and left them lying loose on top so you can see what they look like. The strap between them is adjustable so you can control how far forward the clips (and therefore the bags) will come when the front straps are pulled tight - the fender gets wider as they go forward so eventually the strap between the clips gets tight and they stop moving.

Petem,

thanks for the time and effort to post this reply with pics, I REALLY appreciate it. A great tight an tidy solution for what I need for a day ride. A great forum, and replies almost in real-time :cheers:

Regards
Fizz

P.S. on a recent overnight ride on my Husky TE610, I strapped a litre MSR fuel bottle on each of the fork legs and front fender using these custom holsters" http://www.wolfmanluggage.com.au/4158/a ... 3/product/
Ride report and pics on bike here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=577629

Hey Petem,

Looks like the vendor is prototyping a matching U shaped tank bag called 'Buckin Roll' to match the giant loop rear luggage setup,

'Buckin' Roll' is the title of the yellow bag tank bag you see on the XR650R:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... 64&page=29

Regards
Fizz

fizz said:

P.S. on a recent overnight ride on my Husky TE610, I strapped a litre MSR fuel bottle on each of the fork legs and front fender using these custom holsters

Click to expand...

A friend of mine does something similar and carries either a water or fuel bottle on each fork leg according to where he's riding. I have a Wolfman Enduro tank bag I used on a previous bike and I still use their tool roll - they seem to be good products.

'Buckin Roll' - Hmmm, looks interesting but you'd have to be careful how you spelled it (and pronounced it). :mrgreen:

I have the Mojavi. I haven't ridden with it yet, but I have tried to fit it a few times. I don't like how the center strap and hooks fit on the bike when I fit it the most obvious way. I put the bag behind the seat with the lip under the seat. IMO that is probably more secure although it doesn't work with the center strap all that well - it would keep the bag from moving forward because it is held in place by the seat.

My Mojavi couldn't be any more secure than when it's hooked on using the clips. The clips are absolutely solid and I can't move them at all no matter how hard I pull on them. The only way they will move is by sliding them backwards toward the narrower part of the fender, which can't happen while the front straps are tight and even when I slacken off the front straps it still takes some effort to move the clips the first inch or so. The bags have been out on three rides so far and haven't moved at all, not even after tackling various obstacles and making contact with the odd bush/tree in passing.

You do have to have the adjusting strap between the clips tight enough - if you don't do that there isn't enough tension between the clips so they would be loose on the fender. I originally tightened the strap as much as I could with the clips a couple of inches back from where they were going to end up, so they were on a narrower part of the fender. Then when you tighten the front straps it pulls the clips further forward onto the wider part like driving a wedge between them and the tension between the clips is plenty to keep them in place.

Did you try it with some duck tape around the sides of the fender where the clips go? I only put it on to protect the plastic but maybe it's helping the clips to grip on too.

It might be ok to just wedge it under the back of the seat but unless you wedge part of the pouch under there too it would leave some of the bag hanging out over the gap in the right side panel where the end of the exhaust is. I have no idea whether there would be enough heat to damage the bag but I didn't want to take a risk so I kept it far enough forward that it's not quite over the gap. I guess you could add some sort of insulation over the gap if necessary.

One thing I wasn't clear about is whether you're still using the clips as well as wedging it under the seat? If not I'd worry because the clips are towards the back and keep the whole thing down, but if you've only wedged it at the front end and not used the clips then the back of the small pouch won't be secured and could flap up and down. Using the clips at the same time should stop that happening, though you might have to juggle with the strap tension to get them secure because you can't just pull the bags forward until the clips are tight like I do, given that the bag will stop when it hits the seat.

I guess one plus point of wedging it underneath is it makes the seat easier to get off because you can leave the bags in place.

A couple of questions for the gurus:

1. When I check my valves, what is the torque of the bolts on the black cover that you take off?
2. Do I need the special tool to lock it in place when checking the valves at TDC? If so, what is the part number, and is there a pic of where I put it?

Thanx in advance.
Regards
Fizz

P.S.
<necessary> (dont tell my wife) customisations so far (only have 3hrs on the bike, but am doing a single track 2 dayer in a fortnight to break-it in to 15 hrs):

Pivot pegz
In-tank fuel filter
Map power switch
B&B alloy bashplate
B&B alloy rear brake cylinder protector
B&B alloy counter sprocket protector
Force 4 alloy rear brake disk guard
Neoprene rear shock link PDS cover
Neoprene fork seal savers
Barkbusters
Plastic frame rail guards
Force 4 alloy radiator guards
12v Powerlet Accessory Plug
Folding mirrors
Ram ball mounts for accessories
52 tooth sprocket and longer chain to accomodate (as supplied in box)

Hey fizz I do my rocker cover bolts to 10 nm, most m6 bolts go to this number. They will bottom out so just sung them up from there, get the feel on the left side first, then use a spanner on the right. Good luck trying to get a conventional socket onto the right hand side bolts, if you were really anal, you could source one of those little crows feet open ended socket turnouts ( sorry but I'm fugged if I know what they're really called)
As for locking it at TDC when you align the punch mark on the cam sprocket with the mark on the cam bearing housing it will stay there. There is a locking bolt on the RHS case towards the back, but the receiving hole in the crank is on the piss so it locks up a long way from TDC.

You can take a dremmel tool with a rotory file and grind two very small notches in the rear fender just deep enough to allow the clips to seat in them. I do the same with my moose front fender bag. This keeps the clips from moving even if they are not bow string tight, and will hold the bag in the further back position that you want.

Another alternative using the same tool is to make a slot in the fender that allows the clips to fit into, just inboard of the edge and they will never move.

Dale

berglsmerg said:

if you were really anal, you could source one of those little crows feet open ended socket turnouts ( sorry but I'm fugged if I know what they're really called)

Click to expand...

You mean this sort of thing? http://www.cromwell.co.uk/NBE5551482G

You get a torque wrench with a spigot on the end that clips into the back of this. There are also full ring and simple open-ended spanner attachments. Not ****** cheap mind you, but they will go into places where a torque wrench with a normal socket on the end just won't fit.