0 hours on a FE390

fizz said:

I tried it on the spokes and it doesn't fit, so whats it for - or is it just a bottle opener? :bounce3:

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Yep, I even rang my dealer to ask what it was for when I found it in my 07 kit, he stated it was for after the ride :roll:

Steve

steve said:

Yep, I even rang my dealer to ask what it was for when I found it in my 07 kit, he stated it was for after the ride :roll:

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Thanks for saving me the cost of making the same phone call - when I saw it I said to a mate that I had no idea what it was for but at least it would come in handy as a bottle opener! :cheers:

Wow I am impressed.Very Cool. Is the opener fuel injected too? 8O

Don't know about EFI but it handles really well...

believe it or not they tighten spokes on 09 you just gotta turn it around the wrong way, carlton drinkers .... :roll: .

Tonight I will swap out the 38 tooth rear sprocket that was delivered on the bike :roll: for the 52 tooth sprocket and longer chain that came in a seperate box.

Does anyone know if I have to take chain links out of the longer chain, or is it the correct length?

Thanx in advance
Fizz

fizz said:

Tonight I will swap out the 38 tooth rear sprocket that was delivered on the bike :roll: for the 52 tooth sprocket and longer chain that came in a seperate box.

Does anyone know if I have to take chain links out of the longer chain, or is it the correct length?

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My separate chain was certainly too long when I fitted it and the large sprocket. Easy enough to tell - just get the chain and sprocket in place and put the split link through to hold the chain together without actually fitting the plate and clip so you can slip it back out if necessary (have the split link somewhere towards the back of the sprocket so the chain being over the teeth on the sprocket each side of the link will stop it trying to pull the pins in the split link apart). Then make sure the axle is free to move fore and aft and pull the wheel back until the chain tension's about right and see where the axle is. If it's right at the back of the adjustment range you probably want to take a link out of the chain so that the axle sits further forward.

Mine would actually just fit without removing a link, but it wouldn't have much adjustment left to move the axle back as the chain stretches so you could run out at some point. Also I guess you're effectively making the distance from the swing arm pivot to the rear axle longer than intended, which may affect the handling though I don't know how much and I can never remember which way (less prone to lifting the front and better traction?).

One other thing: the chain guide which sits around the front of the rear sprocket below the swing arm has two positions, and you'll probably need to move it from one to the other (this is in the owner's manual somewhere). If it was set up right for the smaller sprocket you'll find that the larger one hits it and the chain won't go through properly. Loosen the front bolt, take the rear one out altogether and there's a threaded insert behind the rear bolt which can go in either way up. Turn it around so the threaded part is now at the top rather than at the bottom, pivot the whole chain guide down (rotating around the loose front bolt) so the hole where the thread on the insert now is lines up with the bolt hole, refit the bolt and tighten it and the front bolt. The guide should now fit nicely around the front of the larger sprocket and allow the chain through.

FWIW, the 09's came delivered with a 13/52 combo that put the rear axle all the way back. It only took a few rides and the chain had to be cut as there was no more room to adjust. The newer bikes, as I understand it, come with a shorter chain set up. This may have something to do with the fact that the post 09's come with 22mm triple trees.

I'm actually going out to put on a new set of chain wheels right now, going back to the stock 13/52, from the 13/50 that I have been running. I'll take a count of how many pins I have in my chain right now, which will include the master link pins and get back to you.

Dale

DaleEO said:

Yes Davo, I'm using a 1/4 drive torque wrench fits in there just right.

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Thanks for the tip Dale your a champion.
Looking for a good 1/4 inch Torque Wrench now. Hard to find good tools these days, everything is that lovely quality from China, to steal a quote from Bushie "you wan chitty tor wrent? onry 12 dorra ?"

berglsmerg, Sydney TV news story last night, they are worried no one is going to turn up for the NSW v QLD State of Origin. Think NSW are in for a hammering

Davo said:

Looking for a good 1/4 inch Torque Wrench now. Hard to find good tools these days, everything is that lovely quality from China, to steal a quote from Bushie "you wan chitty tor wrent? onry 12 dorra ?"

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I have one of these:
http://www.justtools.com.au/prod4295.htm
They have alternatives

Steve

Great site Steve thanks for the tip,
Is the Norbar better quality than the Warren and Brown?
Davo.

Davo said:

Great site Steve thanks for the tip,
Is the Norbar better quality than the Warren and Brown?
Davo.

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Dunno, I've got a W&B 3/8 torsion bar that was new in 1973 that still seems good. The Norbar comes with a calibration certificate, and for the low torques, that's important. You need to have a working range that is about the middle, ie 1/4 - 3/4 of the scale for reliable and acurate operation.

Steve

I have a Snap On Digital Torque Wrench that has a range 5ft lb - 100ft lb. 5ft lb = 6.7 Nm. It is useless though for small bolt torques as the handle is sooo long, and any small adjustment over torques... a trap if buying a torque wrench - no one tool does it all.

As an aside, what is the HP of the FE390? (I read somewher the FE450 is 45.3 HP at the rear wheel).

Fizz

Wots youse needs is a 1/4 inch chatter spanner that torques in inch/pounds. Damned handy for m/bikes
I have had to purchase 3 different sized tork wenches over the years for the varied jobs I have done. 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drives.
Glad I didn't have to buy the multi thousand $, 1.8metre long unit for work tho (750 ft/lbs)

Congrats on the new bike, Fizz. I'm a new owner, too, but of a 2009 FE450. I love it so far. I think others have answered most of your questions, but I figured I'd jump in and add my limited experience as well.

fizz said:

Things I noticed:

- the manual says check oil level when motor is cold - how unusual. Every other bike I had you check when warm. The oil level from the shop fills the entire site glass which is more than in the manual. It goes in 1 hr anyway.

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Same here. I got 1750 ml out of mine, which is 400 ml overfilled. Needless to say, there was no bubble in the sight window. I thought maybe mine was "special" but it seems that everyone's is coming from the factory that way, I would find it surprising if the overfilling was a mistake since it seems to happen to all of them. This must be the reason the manual says to not exceed 50% throttle for the 1st hour, and to then dump the break-in oil and refill with a quality synthetic. I'm not sure of the point of overfilling, though, I don't know what benefit it adds during break-in, even if the revs are limited. But if they are doing it on purpose, I can certainly see why they recommend limiting the revs to no more than 50%.

fizz said:

- the back brake pedal is way too close to the side cover - only a micron gap - the cover is going to get scratched. I put some cloth tape at where it may\will rub. What have others done?

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I promptly installed a Rekluse clutch on mine which requires a spacer gasket and extents the cover even more. I just used a piece of pipe and slipped it over the pedal after removing the foot support and bent it out a little bit. That fixed that.

fizz said:

- that side stand is the 'suicide model' - the auto retract thing is just looking for trouble on non flat ground. I found it awkward to put the rubber band on the stand - is this necessary? Is there a replacement stand or mod?

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Looks very similar to a typical KTM side stand, designed only to support the bike's weight, no more. I always use the rubber strap. You don't want it to come down while riding in case the spring breaks, you could get hurt real bad. Some bikes over complicate things with a switch that will shut off the engine if the side stand is down, the bike is in gear, and the clutch is not pulled. I like KTM/Husaberg's solution - simple rubber strap.

fizz said:

- Australian bikes come fitted with a 38 tooth rear sprocket? Don't we have big hills - Ayers rock is big? :roll: I got a free box\bag with the bike that also has a 52 teeth sprocket and an additional longer chain.

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Someone said US models come with a 38. Not so, mine was fitted with a 52 and the chain is one link too long, IMO. I fixed that. See here:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12779

fizz said:

- fully fuelled the bike is quite heavy to roll around the garage floor. Do people use 95 or 98 RON fuel in their bikes. Manual says 95 but 98 would be better eh?

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After my last hare scramble and looking closely at my results, I did fine the first lap, my first lap speed even matching those of a few of the front runners, but then I dropped off the pace in subsequent laps. It's coming down to fitness, I think, in large part. So I'm thinking about use this bike's weight to my advantage - I'm considering pushing it around in my back yard as fast as I can for an hour, engine off, what better way to prepare for cardio and even some strength training especially if I drop it a few times and make myself pick it up. :mrgreen: I'm concerned my wife will make fun of me, though, spending this much money on a new bike - it must not be worth a whole lot if you have to push it, lol. That would be her reasoning anyway.

fizz said:

- is there an aftermarket counter sprocket protector to replace the plastic one? Also is the plastic bash plate good enough for stone abuse?

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I purchased the Enduro Engineering clutch slave cylinder guard. I just got back from vacation so I haven't had a chance to install it yet, but it's here in the box and I plan to do that tomorrow. Is that what you are referring to?

https://www.enduroeng.com/ProductDetail ... 1226341222

fizz said:

Tonight I will swap out the 38 tooth rear sprocket that was delivered on the bike :roll: for the 52 tooth sprocket and longer chain that came in a seperate box.

Does anyone know if I have to take chain links out of the longer chain, or is it the correct length?

Thanx in advance
Fizz

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Mine came with an X ring chain as well as the 52.

Thanks 'nobrakes' for posting your info and congrats too on your new bike; I'll race ya to 15 hrs

I ve order some hardparts from B&B, per bashplate, case saver, master cylinder guard and heatshield:
http://www.bboffroad.com.au/450_570_2009+.htm

I have their bashplate on my Husky and its great quality; not as sexy as carbon fibre bling from other vendors, but functional and cost effective.

Regards
Fizz

fizz said:

Thanks 'nobrakes' for posting your info and congrats too on your new bike; I'll race ya to 15 hrs

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Picked up my new FE450 last Saturday and had 8.5 hours on the clock by the end of Sunday (and a bad case of Husabutt). Sadly work's been getting in the way since then. (Hmmm... must rearrange my priorities... :idea

Bike Wont Start!!! Ticking sound only.

I have just returned from 5 days holidays, so still only 1 hr on the bike.

Bought a map switch on the way home and installed it as soon as I got home - simple enough; set it to position '0' (ie normal). Pressed the starter and nothing but a tick sound that I sourced to the square box that houses the two yellow main 20amp fuses under the seat.

The main fuse and 5 other fuses are all good. I should have started the bike before I put the map switch on but I didnt.

The battery isnt flat - I just checked it- anyone have any ideas? What is the black box thatr houses the yellow main fuses - this is the box that is ticking (once) when I press the starter.

Regards
Fizz

That Black Box that houses the 2 x Yellow 20Amp Fuses is the Starter Relay.
If it is clicking when you hit the Starter Button it is a good sign.
There are 2 main big Terminals on it marked "B" and "M".
The "B" Should measure 12Volts all the time, it is from the Battery.
The "M" Should measure 12Volts when you hit the Starter Button. Try that and see what you find. If there is no 12V the problem is towards the Battery. If there is 12V on "M" the problem is towards the Starter Motor.

Check the Earth lead from the Battery too.

Check the Battery Terminals are not loose. Seem to have remembered reading that a few times on here.

Check the Battery Volatge when you hit the Starter Button, sometimes they hold a float charge of 12V but go to 0V when you hit the Starter.