Bushmechanic frame Build pics and Stuff

Bike changes direction sensationally but oversteers on corner entry too much for my liking, feels like a 125F :lol: I think its becasue the seat allows me to sit so far forward and so low it overweights the front, most bikes are about 960mm seat height at 300mm back from the steering head this one is 920 at 100mm .... I lowered the back of the seat twice and the tyre hits the guard now, a better angle but still too low at the front so I think the whole thing needs to go up an inch, have strapped a 2x4 underneath the seat...

lets engrave some jarrah 2x4s with "Husaberg" and stick em on ebay

the bike behaves much nicer with the higher seat.

There I was thinking I could have a lower seat for my short little legs but it doesn't work like that

another issue with a too low seat at the front is your foot rolls forward as you sit further forward and lower then the toes can hit the ground.

also finding the seat width at 200mm is a bit narrow to be able to grip effectively with my knees

when Im happy with the seat position I can make some tanks.

Hey Weed

I thought you may have been having some connection issues, Yes its handy having that track, I drove the tractor around with the slasher on it a few months before I got the 650, the rest of the "earthworks" have been done mostly with the Husaberg, lots of fun.

the gearbox has broken 3 times, allways the sliders for 3rd aor 4th, they are the weakest becasue they neck down for the shift fork then back up again for the dogs creating a weakpoint.

every gearbox is like that except the new KTM SX where they use sliding rings to lock the gears, none of the gears actually slide or neck down for the shift forks.

the ratios out of the 650 twins from kawasaki and suzuki are close and dirt cheap so I might be able to adapt one of those eventually.

for now I'm using 15/53 or 16/53 gearing so 5th is the most used instead of 3rd/4th. the 5/6th slider is much stronger than the 3rd and 4th ones. and yes I need to try some form of Cush I like Dr_C's idea.

I haven't noticed any significant wear on the gear teeth but I have ended up breaking the dogs and then replacing the whole gear for the most used gears pretty often.

the notchy feeling is weird it usually happens to me when the clutch start dragging either casue its stuffed or the oil is toast. some guys find the external shift actuating slider plate thingy gets burred, Dr_C hard faced his with stellite 6 i believe.

bit surprised its currently 15 kgs lighter than my old bike.. feels like it too, I don't care how much misinformed BS people spout about gyroscoptions you can't beat low overall mass and a low COG

Hey Davo I reckon it looks Dodgy :lol:

force ride no worries just follow Azza over

Even looks like enough room for one of Dr_C's CNC heads

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I was thinking 2 might fit :twisted:

something like this

check your ear for a Babel fish

Ok I meant to drawl "fourbytwo"

EFI ? im fine with it if it works, skills so far are limited to disabling silly sensors and buying new stuff to replace stuff that might not be working so I guess Im as good as most are :lol: ..... as for the rest of it (real EFI stuff) I gotta learn sometime I guess

I think there was a mad man on UHE not long ago looking for a twin for a sidecar, I can't remember his name

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oh him yes he's joined the LDC crowd and rides around the living room looking at his bum in the mirror

some more pics

seat looking more normal, not so much oversteer if I can't sit right up the front, the difference that fourbytwo makes to seating position and front end grip is incredible I could have easily extended the head out another 100mm and still made it turn nice.



long range fuel tank with sight glass

NOS kit installed

to fund it I Had to sell my firecrackers on blockart to a madman username Matts007 :twisted:

rear alloy sub tank holds 5.5L, working on the front ones.

almost happy with the seat angle and heights, all up have made and tested 11 subframes. I never would have thought the biggest hassle would be the blooday seat position.

found a lil lizard on the track set him up for a ride, pic is on the mobile, will put it up later for Davo, he likes lizards

pic of the seat position when it was oversteering



and a WA bobtail, funny lil buggers, tails supposed to look like the head to confuse predators. funny logic that, it doesn't work on blow up sheep

changed the geometry a couple times, tried steeper rake and different swingarm angles but found the first setup was pretty good for what I do, lucky guess.

only improvement I noted was from lowering the front of the engine another 10mm and dropping the back of the bike 10mm as well, lower is better but my feet started making freinds with the ground so I left it at that.

I left the gusseting out of the steering head initially so I could change the angles easier if I needed to, found a crack where the lower tube hooks on to the head 11hours runtime so I beefed it up a bit, stiff as hell now but +1.5kgs.

the stiffer frame feels more precise on corner entry mostly when layed over so I guess its the torsional stiffness that is important, the higher more forward COG (added 1.5kgs to the head) is noticable as the bike pitches forward more on takeoff.

neighbour is a panelbeater.... holy crap Davo was right coat of paint to hide the dodgy welds and sheel; be right 8O 8O

looked so shiny I had to have a go at washing the rest of the bike, got bored halfway through. Ive had it since late 2007 have washed it 3 times last time I washed it the chain broke :lol:

Just got Logjumps seatcover in the mail, looks awesome, thanks Log will post a pic when its on

should add That the rear subtank made the bike feel like someone grabbed hold of the subframe and followed me around shaking it from side to side, it wasn't the fuel sloshing as it was worse with the tank full, just a really crappy place to add 5kgs and fuel started leaking out of the middle of one panel, patched that up but it started leaking again, this time out of my awesome dodgy bottom weld could have fixed it again but it seemed too hard for something that doesn't make the bike very nice to ride so its on the shelf might use it for long rides If I need more range,

working on 2 front tanks sort of mid tanks really out of Carbon/blue kevlar, will post pics could take me 6 months to finish the blooday tanks cause its just so much fun to ride this thing.

Hey Thanks Steve! you and the DR are most welcome out here :cheers:

just been for a blast have broken 2 extra heavy duty bulldog spokes on my 18" paddle 8O 8O

will have to put the 19" rim and knobby on and see how it goes on the gravel :twisted:

It still looks pretty dodgy IMHO but the purpose of building this frame was just to see what geometry works good and change it a bit to test the ideas then eventually make a full carbon fibre bike, the 80-90kg 70+ HP sand sled dream is getting closer .... well sometime in the next 10 years shed time is awesome time

its strong enough for the core but will need some carbon over the top, not much though

cedar or balsa has a few advantages over foam for a core material though I guess you could dissolve the foam later and save 500gm

Plywood could be good, laminated up like a boat frame, one problem is it needs a lot of glue

Im sure some parts will be wood some alloy some foam some carbon some steel.. composites