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TomTom's 570 70 degree engine tinkering.

HusaBELGfs570 said:
Next I wanna try is 610 kit/stock rod and stock 570 airbox should result into 65hp/60nm and nice torque but only got 40 hours since rebuild now so will just ride it without touching it for 1-2 years now :p
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That it should, well that would be about what my combo makes with stock ecu

Nice work Tomtom, I think you will have fun on the ice this year !
 
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The tb mod is cheaper and best decision for big hp gain for least amount of money but the reason I would prefer the 610 kit instead is because for me it is easy to do myself and I am sure it would run fine and be easy to get it mapped good with stock ecu.
The tb is harder to tune (maybe impossible to get good throttle response on lower revs/small throttel input with stock ecu.)
And that means more money:p
And if I ever decide to register my bike again for the road I prefer torquey smooth motor instead of superfast high reving one but to agressive for my type of riding/skill ;) also my mechanical skill to install that tb is not enough as far as I can tell looking at these projects:eek:

but to stay on topic very nice dyno sheets you need a sticky'r tyre or dyno if bike reaches 7000rpm:p
 
Thanks guys, Im still a bit surpriced as well.
To me it seems both TB and ports needs some help, Belgy you already had the head ported by Peter? With 610 and TB it will crack!!! Whats between you and 75 is the TB, just saying mate.
What you need to know to make the TB conversion is easy stuff, no worries.
 
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Yes peter did the work on my cylinder head to work with the bigger tb.
But I would realy want to test ride a berg with that tb and stock ecu to feel if I could live with it I know the power is good but what I realy like about these 570 bikes is that they are so super easy to ride and have perfect throttle response.
Sadly you big tb guys live so far away:p

I previously owned a berg 650 motard and that thing was brutal! 570 compared to 650 felt realy slow/tame but the delivery is just much smoother and injection:) also a stock 570 is a very strong bike in the lower (up to 5000rpm) and builds power super smooth with the 650 the delivery was a bit slower in begin and than powerband realy kicks in making it feel so much faster...)
I feel way more comfortable (and in control:p on the 570)

Now make has my ecu that fp engineering mapped specialy for use with the bigger tb I am curious about his experiences but have to be patient for better weather so he can do some testing:p
 
HusaBELGfs570 said:
Yes peter did the work on my cylinder head to work with the bigger tb.
But I would realy want to test ride a berg with that tb and stock ecu to feel if I could live with it I know the power is good but what I realy like about these 570 bikes is that they are so super easy to ride and have perfect throttle response.
Sadly you big tb guys live so far away:p

I previously owned a berg 650 motard and that thing was brutal! 570 compared to 650 felt realy slow/tame but the delivery is just much smoother and injection:) also a stock 570 is a very strong bike in the lower (up to 5000rpm) and builds power super smooth with the 650 the delivery was a bit slower in begin and than powerband realy kicks in making it feel so much faster...)
I feel way more comfortable (and in control:p on the 570)

Now make has my ecu that fp engineering mapped specialy for use with the bigger tb I am curious about his experiences but have to be patient for better weather so he can do some testing:p
Click to expand...

650 is strong as hell oem yes, ridden one, what opened my eyes, but the 570 will take on tuning much better like no other bike can, due to the TB pointed up, on the other bikes its pointed back and the airbox is in the way, and they cant convert to the ducati throttle. 650 is still up but its carburated.
 
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I now landed in the result and Im more than happy with it, better than I dared to whish for. At the same time I started doing the engine I ordered a complete set of new oem fairing for it as I like the oem graphics and now that this bike wont be sunk in a swamp twice a week it could do with a tidy up.

So new original platics but with a white front mx plate as I wont use the light ever again, and these numberplates on the white for races, too much yellow/blue or ok?

Tompi_boards.jpg
 
I know you already post dyno sheets but whas this after tuning afr or still no dyno time with the fixed lambda sensor....
Would like to see a graph comparing your already tuned head before (making 63 hp?) compared to now :happy:
 
HusaBELGfs570 said:
I know you already post dyno sheets but whas this after tuning afr or still no dyno time with the fixed lambda sensor....
Would like to see a graph comparing your already tuned head before (making 63 hp?) compared to now :happy:
Click to expand...

Missed this post, will do as soon as I get to the dyno.
It was a tad lean but nothing that would affect power outcome, now sorted to be just below 13:1, always be on the safe side :)
It picks up a bit from 6k already then hovers over the old and from 8k up it keeps going while the old setup dies.

Just back from the shop fitting the new oem plastics, looks good, mechanically its just down to fit the stud tires to have a go and ice of course :) Looking good at sub zero now, winter is here.
 
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It quickly got really cold here so there is ice to ride today with 8-10cm which is sufficient for a bike, new years eve in between but itll stay at -6 to -8 for ten days it seems so sat hopefully I get to try the new setup, yay :D
 
Today I tried the bike on the ice. All whatever tractor was in there is gone with this setup, acts like a small engine but with super pull. Before it stopped pulling and then you changed gear, with this setup I kept hitting the limiter (9800) all the time at first, so I had to listen to the revs to shift in time. Happy go lucky engine, just grinning when pushed.

Id recommend FP to anyone having the need for outright power, super helpful and stand up guy, Id say truly interested in what he provides.

And a pic from todays entertainment, minus five sunny and barbeque :)
Husan_20160102.jpg
 
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Why are you hitting rev limiter using stock ecu or did you set it at 9800rpm for safety reasons??
I realy want to try a berg with big TB :p
 
World famous bike in Germany :D
Peter thought I did a good job with his bits and put it on his FB.
A bit of training going on now but soon there will be heats and Ill see if I can make a few clips for you to see what its like riding on the ice.

It turned unusally cold here (-22 yesterday) and no snow which makes for a perfect ice foundation, so likely races will happen in february and beginning of march. Competition is really tough though, bunch of death whish nutters, Ill do my best with just minor death whish :)

Cheers, Tom.

WorldFamousInGermany.jpg
 
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TomTom said:
I lowered the limit for safety yes.
Click to expand...
Today I had the pleasure to spend all day with Gert, one of the Husaberg seniors who was with the brand from the beginning to the end. He knows everything about husaberg engines. A true Swedish Husaberg legend. Regardless, it was a very nice day with a very nice person. We had a look at my enduro 570 engine and talked a lot about technicalities and tolerances.
Reason for telling this in your thread TomTom is what he told me about crankshaft end play. In the manual it states 0.25-0.35, which is all good (mine was 0.32). But if you tune it for ice racing/motard and go hi rev the end play should be above 0.35. He didn't give me a definitive number for the 70 degree, but the old husaberg engines he normally had at 0.65, but he said "above 0.35" for the 70 degree.
Sharing this officially here so more people might benefit. Nothing ground breaking, but still good to know that the play needs to be bigger on higher revs = higher forces. Makes sense.
 
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Interesting can't remember what mine was set at but I do remember there are no shims/spacers placed between my crank/bearings tolerance was good without them.
 

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