TomTom's 570 70 degree engine tinkering.

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Tried the top of the line LI battery, fails when they get cold as they have NO Cold Cranking Amps. When warm they work but get them cold and they do not work. At least for my application the only battery is a Yuasa Z7S.

They don't even rate LI batteries for cold cranking(cold battery scenario) because they cannot even preform the test as they preform so poorly. FYI
 
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@Blutor; How you wear your starter grip clutch out!
Lithium Ion I use on the summer track bike, nothing youd use during winter, unless you like changing the starter freewheel/grip clutch, plenty experience here. Keep pounding the bike like that is expensive, and certainly NOT recommended, if it dont fire the first 3-4 strokes something isnt right.
To keep the flange in mint condition you need to stick it max current right away, as much as soon you can. Proper speaker cables or equivilant will help too.

However turning the bike over with any battery and then wait 30 seconds is ALWAYS a good idea below 10 degrees C, as with the low temp of engine components fuel evaporation will be slow, either do that or just put a cc of fuel directly into the throttle body -> instant start with the bonus of no additional wear on the starter, quite convenient with how easy it is to rip the seat off the 570 and then just a prepared syringe with fuel to shot it.

How we do it on the ice when its darn cold, like -20C ;) No hokus pokus, no money, just hillbilly knowledge, well you need to bang a sister with a syringe, that may cost you..

Edit: Whovalley Sweden and not knowing this, just spjewed my beer :) You cant be from there or 'here' in general?
 
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If I ride during winter I always start from my garage so the is no problem with a cold engine. mc in the winter. But now I'm thinking of riding with a timbersled kit.
So where are you at?
 
Not that far north you are but we often start riding at -20C, usually have to travel 200kms to a race so the engine is at ambient temp then.
Injection takes care of most of it on the husa 570, itll start easy even at really low temps, what I meant was dont get the light weight battery, itll be a problem child with winter temps, and for gods sake dont pin the starter like in the vid, get upset seeing that as a tip :)

Blutor said:
If I ride during winter I always start from my garage so the is no problem with a cold engine. mc in the winter. But now I'm thinking of riding with a timbersled kit.
So where are you at?
Click to expand...
 
Well here it gets max-10°c and that is very rare:)
When I don't ride for a long time in winter I get my lithium battery out of the bike (its not in a heated garage).
And keep the battery in room temperature had the (skyrich) lithium battery for some time now and no problems with it I gues I already have it 3-4 years
Don't know how many years of use I can get out of it but a normal battery is mostly dead after 5-6 years and a yuasa OEM battery costs more than a lithium one so I wille take lithium because of the weight:p
 
Hope to not veer off-topic too far, but some of the lithium battery manufacturers say to just turn on a headlight to warm up the battery :) The KTM SX doesn't have that option so I guess they have to resort to the mash-starter/take-nap procedure :)
 
HusaBELGfs570 said:
Well here it gets max-10°c and that is very rare:)
When I don't ride for a long time in winter I get my lithium battery out of the bike (its not in a heated garage).
And keep the battery in room temperature had the (skyrich) lithium battery for some time now and no problems with it I gues I already have it 3-4 years
Don't know how many years of use I can get out of it but a normal battery is mostly dead after 5-6 years and a yuasa OEM battery costs more than a lithium one so I wille take lithium because of the weight:p
Click to expand...

Once talking to a know how guy designing chargers for the lithium ones he said theres no problem storing them cold, just dont charge them below 7 or above 28 degrees C roughly. Also important, do not feed them over 14,5V.
Stay away from that and the battery itself should be fine. I have one on my roadracing trackbike and works just fine (skyrich too), however for winter use its not a good idea.
 
I'm glad it's freakin hot where I live, 40 Celsius at 11:30 am yesterday. I noticed in winter at 10C the cold cranking was poor so I went 130 cca to 220cca. Anyway bugger this battery business, like husabelg says, how is it goin ? :signquestion:
 
Held up a bit as the piston rings are a bit slow to get here. Will update as soon as things starts happening. At least a week from now it seems.
Exercising the KTM meanwhile, so Im happy.

Berglsmerg, you get used to it, Id die if it was 40 here as Im not used to it, 22 is my favourite temp, you can be pretty much without clothes then, bet you dont like that pic in your mind :D

Film from saturdays riding https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDWTwRxPqP0
 
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Ahhhh yeah my fragile little mind is now stained, indellibly. Especially as 22 is our average low temp:cry:
 
Have you got the bike back on dyno again?

I'm getting frustrated here as I can't test the new ecu because of all day raining or snowing. :(
Saturday looked good but started heavily raining after noon. I even rigged a wideband to log afr's....

I hate Finland lol.
 
Waiting for piston rings still, should arrive this week or early next, Ill get back when I tried it. You hate when it gets cold, I love it :) why I have a bike for each season. Dont care about the weather I just pick the bike for it.
This time of year theres no point for it to get cold, rather around christmas/new year we do have stable ice here to race on, fingers crossed :) May have to go to the races in finland.


maKe said:
Have you got the bike back on dyno again?

I'm getting frustrated here as I can't test the new ecu because of all day raining or snowing. :(
Saturday looked good but started heavily raining after noon. I even rigged a wideband to log afr's....

I hate Finland lol.
Click to expand...
 
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Quick test in the dyno today, was planning on tuning it during the day but the lambda hole broke pretty much right away, theres always something innit :D
69.4 SAE rwhp or 72 DIN rwhp. Cant put the graph up as my FTP is down, will sort it tomorrow.
The setup now consists of CP piston, FP Throttle and head ported(or rebuilt rather) by FP. Was hoping to see a safe 65 SAE but it turned out better than that, which is a bonus. Regardless of power it will be much more fun to ride when it wont give up at 8k.
Off to the pub for a chat and a cold one, cheers!
 
Doma exhaust now, but it doesnt bring any hp, and FP ecu, but from testing, the ecu doesnt bring any hp either, it brings quickshifter and shiftlight which I need/want.
Stock cam seems to do the job nicely yes.
Seems the head needs to be rebuilt to make substantial hp.

I still dont know if the TB is restrictive, I DO know the head is restrictive.
Head chokes at 8k as is.
 
this is my bike on dyno completely stock engine just different tune in ecu/shroud mod and fmf pipe.


Same dyno but with reworked (fp engineering) cyl head and also fmf header pipe and DNA air filter+450 custom map.



The black line is hp after tune blue before reaching max hp 1000rpm later and better topend +7000rpm

Latest one after my rebuild same setup as before only now added seatmod cp piston and 390 airbox+mapped with user setting tool different dyno because the dyno used first 2 times was burnt down in a fire.



didn't realy change a lot but some things that may have hurt hp is I used carillo rod instead of stock is adding 50 grams and the 390 airbox also loses a bit on top but pretty "wide powerband keeping 60 hp over 8-10
 
Next I wanna try is 610 kit/stock rod and stock 570 airbox should result into 65hp/60nm and nice torque but only got 40 hours since rebuild now so will just ride it without touching it for 1-2 years now :p
 
Here are the charts both SAE and DIN corrected, I prefer to use SAE as it corrects the result better between days, but most use DIN as it renders higher numbers, pick a choose.
Loss from rear wheel to clutch was 10,5hp. Graph is a bit jumpy midway as I couldnt get it to bite the roller quite, should have been more rounded in that portion else.
I think this setup will be more fun to ride as it will keep pushing on top instead of the typical 'fall on its nose' above 8k,
very keen to try it out and and see what it feels like riding, should have the CR500AF's glowing red i reckon :D

DIN:
Husa570_201512_DIN.jpg


SAE:
Husa570_201512_SAE.jpg
 

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