TomTom's 570 70 degree engine tinkering.

Whishes come true...I whished for a cold winter and plenty of ice, -28C now, hows that! Ice track scraped and perfect just waiting for it to get to -15.

I would die...
Its 4 celcius here and I am way to cold already

Did some racing with my neighbour (maico 440) last weekend at -22degC. Good ice this winter

Absolut crisp sunday
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo5Fnly-x3g

HusaBELGfs570 said:

I would die...
Its 4 celcius here and I am way to cold already [emoji14]

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That actually feels colder then 10-15 -c cause of The air is more damp. 15- is dry

the bike moves pulling wheelies at high speed I bet those studded tyres/wheels are pretty heavy???

Good topic!
Does that seat hole make any difference to the stock whrn riding? My 570 is also tuned by Peter (doma, ported head, 46mm tb, stock ecu adjusted by Peter) and of course I'd like to squeeze out every hp I can from that setup but I'm not convinced enough to cut a hole in my seat
I dont know it would help but there is a custommade shroud for the 70 degrees which have a small tunnel/ditch at the upper side of the plastic and it direct some air to the gap between the seat and the shrouds... hope its not only me who unterstands Anyway I think further upgrade it could be a "real" ram-air. I know ram-air real effects comes at highspeed but IF a seat hole counts...

What's your gearing?

HusaBELGfs570 said:

the bike moves pulling wheelies at high speed I bet those studded tyres/wheels are pretty heavy???

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Sharp eyes there Belgy, the engine character makes it super easy to control long but low power wheelies. Studs weigh a lot yes, never put them on the scale though.

HusaPower said:

Good topic!
Does that seat hole make any difference to the stock whrn riding? My 570 is also tuned by Peter (doma, ported head, 46mm tb, stock ecu adjusted by Peter) and of course I'd like to squeeze out every hp I can from that setup but I'm not convinced enough to cut a hole in my seat
I dont know it would help but there is a custommade shroud for the 70 degrees which have a small tunnel/ditch at the upper side of the plastic and it direct some air to the gap between the seat and the shrouds... hope its not only me who unterstands Anyway I think further upgrade it could be a "real" ram-air. I know ram-air real effects comes at highspeed but IF a seat hole counts...

What's your gearing?

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Just my 2c worth; Its not so much the increased area for the air but the improvement in resonance that does the trick. I have fiddled with this on other bikes(2v ducatis) and you get the best effect by opening an airbox right where the intake tract points at. Ram air would not make a positive net compared at the speeds we race at (up to 160kph) as you would have to trade this for not as good resonance at lower speeds, power out of turns is more important than outright top speed in this category of riding as its a lot of turns and just one straight.

Actually Im not sure of the gearing as cant recall what front sprocket Ive got, rear is 45 though, Ill go out and count it tomorrow as I was asked this yesterday too and was like errhhh urrrhh :/ It does 168kph with a 17" supermoto tire in the dyno in sixth with oem ecu (9600) if it means anything to you...
Whatever it is its perfect for me on the ice.

Could you explain a bit more that resonance effect? Ram-air project is off than...
Does yours pull a wheely in 4th just by twist?

HusaPower said:

Could you explain a bit more that resonance effect? Ram-air project is off than...
Does yours pull a wheely in 4th just by twist?

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Pulses going through a tube is stupid, if it meets open space it reckons tube is closed and feels it need to return, the more pressure drop the harder return pulse, free air is the most open we can provide, thats my theory anyway.

Twisting is cheating Put fourth in at low rpm and just wait yes and eventually it does that, in the film its in fourth gear yes, and when wheel gets high enough push to fifth and it keeps on.

If you dont want it to wheelie, thats easy too, up to you, a 10cm rise is perfect, over did it just to impress here haha.

TomTom said:

Sharp eyes there Belgy, the engine character makes it super easy to control long but low power wheelies. Studs weigh a lot yes, never put them on the scale though.

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Had 2 of mine on a scale just now when changing backtire

18" 110/100 about 11kg
Dunlop, no spikes/studs

18" 100/100 about 15kg
Pirelli w spikes/studs not fully spiked, used tire
(not every knob on the sides studed)

Too bad I live in the south, the lakes are not frozen deep enougt [emoji27]
But we ride the endurotracks anyway [emoji2]

Bit more fun on the ice, filming a buddy on his yahaha 450, the supermono talent 'spaden', reckon I wouldnt stand a chance towards him on a 690, better give him a whack while I can
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxH_nRBBnm8

Good driving from both of you!

HusaPower said:

Good topic!
Does that seat hole make any difference to the stock whrn riding? My 570 is also tuned by Peter (doma, ported head, 46mm tb, stock ecu adjusted by Peter) and of course I'd like to squeeze out every hp I can from that setup but I'm not convinced enough to cut a hole in my seat
I dont know it would help but there is a custommade shroud for the 70 degrees which have a small tunnel/ditch at the upper side of the plastic and it direct some air to the gap between the seat and the shrouds... hope its not only me who unterstands Anyway I think further upgrade it could be a "real" ram-air. I know ram-air real effects comes at highspeed but IF a seat hole counts...

What's your gearing?

Click to expand...

How are you liking the throttle response with your setup I already have all the mods from fp (except 46mm throttle).
And I borowwed my modded ecu to make some time ago but no news from him guess its still to cold to ride
I am curious about his experiences and yours with that stock ecu would realy want to test it myself
Where you from ?

That reminds me I finalised the air boot yesterday, meant to bring the camera today, but early morning confused brain wasnt able to remember such a difficult task Put the camera in my shoe prior to writing this, so Ill likely swear about shoe comfort in the morning...

Anywho, I obviously had to cut the oem 570 boot up a bit as the new TB is bigger and a bit more centered, this leaves air gaps around the TB as I found it impossible to cut it with precision. So I used a pair of scissors and an old inner tube along with contact cement. Rubber to rubber with contact cement reeealy sticks well, then it was mostly simple origami from there on Didnt have any hopes of producing anything good looking, just make it seal well, lo and behold it turned out rather good looking, but then my expectaions were nil.
Be back with a pic tomorrow.
Plus I have a brand new 450 boot left over in unopened oem package, should anyone feel the urge to aquire one.

HusaBELG, ive done more riding now and the big TB setup isnt as smooth as oem opening the blade up, I wont notice it on the track as its not so much refined stuff going on there, more on or off on the ice track, but you would trying to ride trails. This will likely be emphasised by the stroke is shorter aswell, just over a quarter turn now.

I'm about to buy a 450 boot, might as well give you that money. And do you still have the exp2.0 recluse collecting dust?

Ah Yes the shorter throttle throw could ad to the more abrupt response on most of my (road) bikes I find the throttle throw to long and install slightly bigger diameter throttle tube.
On the berg stock I like its not very short but not to uncomfortable to moving wrist to much like on most bikes.
One more month till Next Trackday.

jon andersson said:

I'm about to buy a 450 boot, might as well give you that money. And do you still have the exp2.0 recluse collecting dust?

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Ill PM you about the boot. I sold the rekluse to a friend, but I now regret it, not because of its intended use, but on the ice track if you slide into a corner braking it takes the chain judder away so you wont have to deal with the clutch at the same time, quite handy feature rekluse wont know about .

At todays riding the bike suddenly died...it was a lot of water spray from the other bikes as it was wet with +4C today. Turned out it was the engine off button that shorted when drained, just a heads up if you find your self stranded when a lot of water has reached that area. Just disconnected it and full on again Will remove the control all together as its mandatory with a tether kill switch and no lights or indicators.

Pics of the flux capacitor, also known to earthlings as air boot