The technical adventures of Dr_C

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Very Interesting Dr C. I would have thought adding weight to only
One side wouldn't have made that much difference

Love the crank ! looks like it just needs a few more tig rods melted into it

Thank you for the video, very much appreciated
 
bushmechanic said:
Very Interesting Dr C. I would have thought adding weight to only
One side wouldn't have made that much difference

Love the crank ! looks like it just needs a few more tig rods melted into it ����

Thank you for the video, very much appreciated
Click to expand...
Me neither!
Haha! Big fan of welding the big end, aren't you! :)
What bearing type would you suggest for the flywheel side, if in need of keeping the flywheel?
 
so what is your balance factor now Mats?

also, perhaps a block of plained wood and some p400 for that head gasket.....or scouring pad?

Taffy
 
Dr_C said:
Me neither!
Haha! Big fan of welding the big end, aren't you! :)
What bearing type would you suggest for the flywheel side, if in need of keeping the flywheel?
Click to expand...

I use 22206 spherical rollers both sides in one bike and one of the Ktm ntn nj206s on the ignition side in the other.

However in your case I recomend new billet cases and a balancer running in its own dedicated playpen :)
 
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Sometimes I amuse myself (and others) with more than one cylinder! The spectators at this event showed their appreciation by raising 2530 SEK for the Child Cancer Foundation!

First Supermono practise is on Sunday. Fingers crossed!

 
I can see how your next thread is going to start ''1918 v12 engine EFI '' :)...do you mind one question (as I been thinking about this one in work) ...why are you not running some engine bracket on your frame to the engine? wouldn't them improve frame rigidity and stability when revving ...ok those bolts hold the engine case but you can still put pressure by the bracket, or what I am thinking is a no go zone 20170503_231206.jpg ...dont laugh at the picture
 
paolo6 said:
I can see how your next thread is going to start ''1918 v12 engine EFI '' :)...do you mind one question (as I been thinking about this one in work) ...why are you not running some engine bracket on your frame to the engine? wouldn't them improve frame rigidity and stability when revving ...ok those bolts hold the engine case but you can still put pressure by the bracket, or what I am thinking is a no go zone View attachment 6589 ...dont laugh at the picture
Click to expand...
Hi Paolo!
Bolting the engine (the oscillating part) more firmly to the frame will result in:
-the oscillating mass will increase substantially. This will reduce the amplitude and change (probably reduce) the resonance frequency. The practical effect of the changing in resonance (also the directions) is extremely difficult to foresee.
-high stresses will concentrate to the few points where the the two heavy bodies are attached to each other. The bolt areas will get susceptible to fatigue cracking. The engine cases are no designed for adding forces to the cylinder/head.
-as the engine heats up (dT is around 150degC) the aluminium cases expand in the region of half a millimeter. Not a big distance, but the force is immense. It is important, for any design, that there is play enough for the thermal expansion.

It might work, and if it was a street legal bike, there would be plenty of opportunities to test and find out. I do not have that luxury. I have however positive experience from going in the opposite direction! Loosening the front engine attachment and make it flexible with some kind of rubber inserts/blocks/bushings, has worked very well on my previous bikes. The downside with letting the engine vibrate is that everything that is mounted onto it (carb/throttle body, exhaust system, sensors), falls to pieces!

So, curing the problem at the source is priority #1.
 
I would have to give you dubble thanks...It's mainly because I saw this design in more or less all 4 stroke (ktm,honda...) I have a friend in Italy who race in the national and he is even fussy about the material of it.... then I saw some people in here that to improve frame rigidity they welded the bottom and front of frame so why not taking the same idea of the other manufactures...I might look into it (part time future) as you saying just to see if it could ever work as I saw some frame sold for cheap on ebay(oscillating mass will be then an issue)...but yeah your 3 points are the absolute real facts when doing something like this

going the opposite way ..uhm...how is your frame holding with EFI and all the other stuff into it? Does it create any problem especially with yours in your dyno video I saw 85hp :)


Thanks a lot for your reply
 
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Yep, vibrations are sod to sort out. Luckily I've only had a cracked exhaust of the major components to sort and my motor is solidly mounted.
I run my eye over the bike after every race. The one I missed was the rev counter bracket! The rev counter dropped down the steering head as I was exiting a hairpin. Oh how me and the marshalls laughed as I took to the grass unable to straighten up!!
She shakes like a tarts arse when the sailors are in town.
 
paolo6 said:
going the opposite way ..uhm...how is your frame holding with EFI and all the other stuff into it? Does it create any problem especially with yours in your dyno video I saw 85hp :)


Thanks a lot for your reply
Click to expand...
With my own frame I decided to bolt the engine firmly, but when having to let go of the CB, the vibrations killed the rear shock. Three times! The first time happened already at the dyno! With a result of 88 RWHP, BTW! :cool:
I have rebalanced the crank again (see video), so now some track days are needed to check the result.
 
I wouldn't be surprise, that poor shock what he is going through with you :) ...now that you point out about rear shock I been looking around to other people who custom build their frame and this guy has his shock horizontal Maarten Janssens is Building the MJ Works Racing Supermono

what is your feeling about it?

It does look smart and innovative but i haven't seen any test or actual result of it
 
I have had some bad experience with the fuel hose from the internal pump to the fuel tank penetration. I had to learn the hard way that ordinary fuel hoses only have nitril/NBR quality on the inside tube. So when being soaked the outer tube dissolves and lose control of the reinforcement. Then the inner tube bursts from the inner pressure (some 4 bars). SO, you need a hose with both layers made from nitril/NBR. But there is still good/bad quality hoses!

This particular hose was sold by an industrial hydraulic shop, specifically for this type of application. So I put one piece in a jar with petrol. After 12 days the soaked piece had swollen (se the left piece of hose in the photo. The wall thickness had increased from 3,5 mm to 4,2 mm!

Now I will test a Cohline hose to see if it´s up for the job! Track practise tomorrow!

db602a38be186da184c0a0e91134a733.jpg


Skickat från min SM-A310F via Tapatalk
 
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See if it's possible to buy only the fuel hoses from a KTM/husaberg/husqvarna as they are made for that purpose. But I guess you only can buy them together with filters and pump..?
 
The practice went more or less in the bin. The engine stopped just by taking the bike down from the starter rollers a couple of times. Then it didn't start at all. No squirting from the injector when turning the engine on the rollers and no movement on the rpm needle, made me think the EFI didn't get any pulses from the hall sensor on the cam sprocket.

Back in the workshop I found some broken leads on the hall sensor. So I replaced the sensor and supported the cable better. One more problem cured. How many are there left? :unsure:

New practice session the coming Sunday!
 

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