Pro's and Con's of my new 570

No guys, I am certain I'm not hitting the brake. Now that I really listen for it, I hear the bike do a small backfire as it flames out, which almost always happens as I chop the throttle, shift, and get back on it hard. Which is why the first couple times I thought it was a problem with the tranny as it locks up and dies. As the other guys state, the FI gets confused when rapidly going up/down thru the gears with many fast throttle chops/accellerations.

Mrpwr said:

No guys, I am certain I'm not hitting the brake. Now that I really listen for it, I hear the bike do a small backfire as it flames out, which almost always happens as I chop the throttle, shift, and get back on it hard. Which is why the first couple times I thought it was a problem with the tranny as it locks up and dies. As the other guys state, the FI gets confused when rapidly going up/down thru the gears with many fast throttle chops/accellerations.

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Thats it, like a mini backfire except the explosion is in the air intake box.
One push on button and your away again.
No flash code faults and its def not the brakes , although i agree the foot pedal is higher than the footpeg which is not too clever.

Yes, the second ride I adjusted the brake pedal down, and gear shift lever up. Coincidently, someone else started a thread about this same issue over at KTMtalk( inquiring if anyone was having the backfire/flameout), several replied that they also had the problem. One suggested that simply raising the idle will "fix" the problem, although I'm not a big fan of a fast idle I will experiment with the idle to see if it goes away.

Mrpwr said:

Yes, the second ride I adjusted the brake pedal down, and gear shift lever up. Coincidently, someone else started a thread about this same issue over at KTMtalk( inquiring if anyone was having the backfire/flameout), several replied that they also had the problem. One suggested that simply raising the idle will "fix" the problem, although I'm not a big fan of a fast idle I will experiment with the idle to see if it goes away.

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Hmm, maybe that's the reason I don't have this problem........ I raised the idle on my bike when it was new to what sounded to me like a good idle. If memory serves, it's about 4 or 5 clicks increase in throttle speed. Hopefully this will solve your problem.

Dale

Ah, maybe thats why they set the bergs at 1800 rpm then.
I too dont like a fast idle and slowed mine by around 4 clicks when i first bought it, taking it towards the lower end of the 1500-2000 idle range.
I will reset to a faster idle and see what happens.

I slowly advanced the idle one notch at a time until the "flameouts" stopped, which is 4 clicks counter clockwise (faster) than factory delivery. The flameouts quit, but the high idle interfers with the cold start. I now have to crank a lot more, and the bike doesn't run right for a few seconds until it cleans itself out. Starts perfectly warm/hot though. Now I have to decide which alternative is the least offensive, the flameouts or a bike that doesn't want to start cold.

I noticed day before yesterday that the pipe is sagging down and resting against the shock spring(and the tire is grazing the pipe), no amount of tightening the bolts prevented this sagging, so I placed a 2mm washer behind each of the muffler mounts. Now when the pipe sags it clears the spring by at least a couple mm.

Arhhhhhhh....! The trial and tribulations of a new model. Give them a few years and all these little annoying problems will be a distant memory. Nothing like using the general public as a teething ground for new models.

Mrpwr,
Did you know the idle screw pulls out for cold starts ?
If it takes more than two pushes of the button i would be looking at something else regardless of the idle speed.
Nick

Eyspy

This bike isn't perfect, but I'm far more impressed with this first year bike than I ever was with any KTM bike I owned. I had far more complaints with every KTM I owned, and they had many years to "improve" or fix the on- going problems. So, view this thread as more of a chronicle of a new model and my experience with it(good and bad). On the whole, I'm happier with this first year bike than any bike I have owned.

NKW570

With the idle set normally I never needed the "choke". As it is loading up with the accelerated idle, it seemed counter productive to choke it.

I appreciate your post on your new bike,am getting ready to spring for one as soon as i take the last draw off the job I am doing.
I did have a question,my local dealer has some 08's left @ about $5500,he quoted me an 09 @ $8500
Is the 09 that much better than the 08.

Thanks For Your Input !!

RM9155

I have not ridden the older Bergs, so I will leave the comparison to others who have ridden both. I will say, the more I ride this bike the more I like it. I am a harsh critic of any bike I own (it's hell being a perfectionist), so if the only thing I ever have to complain about is the poor fuel economy, occasional flamout (which appears to be fixed by increasing the idle), and a saggy muffler (that can be fixed with a couple washers, then I will be a VERY HAPPY Husaberg customer.

The bike handles better than any four stroke ever has (my not so humble opinion), turns exceptionally well, flicks from side to side, and has pretty decent suspension right out of the box, and NO FOUR STROKE BOG!

NKW570

I have to eat a little crow. From the first day the bike started cold without the choke, so I had never used it down here in the warm desert, so when i increased the idle and the bike didn't want to start cold I assumed that it was loading up from the high idle, so it never occured to me to choke it. So, this morning just to confirm my theory I pulled the choke, and it jumped to life almost before the starter turned over once. I will need a few more cool mornings to confirm, but it seems you were right to suggest the choke. It just confounded me as to why increasing the idle would cause it to now want to be choked?

its been interesting reading these posts. i think what is happening here is one of the main reasons why ktm keeps husaberg around. when the orange bikes come out with the "revolutionary" "new" engine and efi everything will be absolutely dialed courtesy of husaberg riders and their feedback. i can already see it now, a $199 ktm hard parts "kit" to turn your "revolutionary" plastic sub frame into an auxalliry fuel tank.

Hi, DaleEO, Mrpwr and uaeberg etc.,
Just thought i'd catch up with you guys on the 570s and see how you are getting on with the flame out and idle speed issues.
On my last race the efi cut the bike out 5 times in the first lap, throwing me off the bike twice, always on the trial sections, never thro the woods or on the flat.
It then seemed to get better as the bike warmed up and i made a concious effort to be a little less violent when chopping off the throttle and snapping it open again.
In the break i turned up the idle another 3-4 clicks counterclockwise and by the second half it only flamed out twice in 2 hours.
Trouble is , i now am not sure what rpm im at.
Does anyone know how many clicks out from full stop is standard and how many more from that would work best for a faster idle? Without being too fast.
It now only cuts out maybe once in an hour, again usually when you chop off and snap open.
I am also wondering if the soft mapping is helping it flame out, i will try standard mapping on same route for an hour next time and compare.
The other weird thing is fuel consumption , i seem to now be getting a little over 6 miles to a litre in race rather than 5 which is good.

Cheers,
Nick

NKW570 said:

Hi, DaleEO, Mrpwr and uaeberg etc.,
Just thought i'd catch up with you guys on the 570s and see how you are getting on with the flame out and idle speed issues.
On my last race the efi cut the bike out 5 times in the first lap, throwing me off the bike twice, always on the trial sections, never thro the woods or on the flat.
It then seemed to get better as the bike warmed up and i made a concious effort to be a little less violent when chopping off the throttle and snapping it open again.
In the break i turned up the idle another 3-4 clicks counterclockwise and by the second half it only flamed out twice in 2 hours.
Trouble is , i now am not sure what rpm im at.
Does anyone know how many clicks out from full stop is standard and how many more from that would work best for a faster idle? Without being too fast.
It now only cuts out maybe once in an hour, again usually when you chop off and snap open.
I am also wondering if the soft mapping is helping it flame out, i will try standard mapping on same route for an hour next time and compare.
The other weird thing is fuel consumption , i seem to now be getting a little over 6 miles to a litre in race rather than 5 which is good.

Cheers,
Nick

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Hi Nick,

I am not having the flame out issues that you are having at all. I turned my rpm up the first time I rode my bike around very easily and have not adjusted it since. I don't know what idle speed it is at, and really don't think it matters as long as the bike is running good.

From what you stated in your post it sounds like you are going in the right direction.

The only time my bike quits while I am riding it, is when I stab the rear brake pedal and kill the motor or just plain old stall it in the slow going.

For what it's worth, I have always let my bike warm up fully before going for a ride, I start it up and let it idle while I'm changing out of my street clothes and into my riding gear. So it's probably running for about 8-10 minutes. I do have the fan kit so I don't worry about it getting too hot, but, so far the fan has not come on while it has been idling.

The last time out I was the first time I have really ridden my bike really hard, revving it hard and rowing the gear box where I could with as late as possible shut downs into the corners, and then blowing up the berms on my way out. Later in that event was some very very technical riding with a lot of clutch slippage. This is where I noticed the fan cycling on and off going up loose rock infested hills, getting hung up and having to really slip the clutch to get going. The clutch maintained it's feel throughout the event.

I have yet to try the soft mapping. I have been using the aggressive and standard maps only. In the last event, I did cut it back to standard at one of the resets. I'll have to give the soft map a go to see what it's like the next time out.

Dale

For what it's worth, my 570 will flame out on occasion. Not very often, perhaps less than once a ride. Everytime it does it it seems to be under very unusual conditions. Full on brake slide with an impact and usually running a gear too high. The impact being a heavy "G out" or running into a boulder garden. I didnt notice it untill I derestricted the exhaust. I am still trying to pin down exactly what triggers it before I make adjustments. It does not seem to be map related. The bike is fitted with a Rekluse so I am confidant it is not a stalling issue. It does seem to be a flame out.

I suppose the odd flame out would be acceptable, small price to pay when you compare the FI to carb.

DaleEO, you said:
[color=blue]For what it's worth, I have always let my bike warm up fully before going for a ride, I start it up and let it idle while I'm changing out of my street clothes and into my riding gear. So it's probably running for about 8-10 minutes. I do have the fan kit so I don't worry about it getting too hot, but, so far the fan has not come on while it has been idling. END QUOTE[/color].

You may have hit the nail on the head there. All our races are a dead engine start from cold and the last race went straight into technical/trials area, so other more open courses may not give the same problem as it will allow the bike to warm up at a more constant throttle.

Cheers,
Nick

My races are dead engine too, I just let the bike warm up at the truck before riding over to the start.

I've also been experiencing the flame-out situation with my FE450. Always seems to happen in very technical, uphill rock gardens. And ALWAYS happens at exactly the wrong time! I have a Rekluse installed, and turned the idle up to try and alleviate the problem, and then the Rekluse starts to drag and engage due to the faster idle. It helped the flame-out problem, but didn't completely clear it. My next step is to either take out the tungsten balls in the Rekluse or put in the stronger spring to try and get a higher speed engagement of the clutch so I can run a higher idle speed. Any other ideas are welcome!

Don't know whether you guys read this in a post here a while back or not, and don't know if it will help you. BUT.

There was a post here awhile back from BikeBarnBeckman talking about "burn in" that the dealers do as part of their set up. BBB also went on to say that at the Tech school, he learned that it was important to repeat this burn in procedure when the conditions change a lot from the last time you were riding your bike. This allows the computer to get the motor controls set up for the current conditions. This "burn in" requires at least 10 minutes of idling WITHOUT touching the throttle, just start it up and let it idle.

You might give that a try on your next outing to see if it helps resolve your stalling problem. I have not had any problems with stalling what so ever on my bike that are caused by the bike itself.

Hope this helps,

Thanks Dale, sure can't hurt to give that a try... Appreciate the heads-up.