Prepping for 24 hour test

Okay, I'm assuming that this is the appropriate forum for this thread. Json, feel free to move it if I'm wrong.

Here's my two cents worth.

Suspension: Disassemble and inspect forks and shock, to ensure that there are no parts that are going to come loose. As well as making sure there is no air in the shock which could lead to seal failure. Are we sure that we can't put some stiffer springs on if needed??

Chassis: Check steering head bearings for grease and proper adjustment after break in. Check all fasteners for tightness, maybe even apply blue loctite to all fasteners. Check all electrical wiring harnesses for abrasions, pinches, proper routing, and make sure spark plug lead lead is screwed into coil and plug cap properly. Bleed brakes. Clean and flush fuel tank. Check wheel bearings are properly lubed. Check that rear wheel is square with swingarm axle to prevent chain/sproket wear. Controls: Disasemble throttle, clean, and lubricate with a little silicone spray. Disasmeble front brake and clutch levers. Clean perches, and lever bushings. Lubricate with a touch of grease or graphite on bushings. Also, clean and lubricate adjusters with silicone spray or graphite. One other thing that I do, but does not apply here is to drill a small hole in the bottom of the swingarm in front of the axle adjuster flange to allow any water that get's in during washing to drain out. I also pull the axle adjusters out and give them a shot of anti-seize.

Engine: Flush cooling system, and put in Engine Ice coolant. Maybe leave valve lash a little loose so things to get too tight during ride, how about .006" to start out with? Can we install a stainless mesh oil filter? Bleed clutch system. Check ignition mounting bolts, loctite? Clean and flush carb. While carb is apart for jetting, verify all jet sizes correct, PAJ, MAJ, start jet, float height, check vent hoses aren't going to get pinched or plugged, check throttle cable adjustment correct, can we put on an aftermarket pilot screw?

Hi Brett,

I don't know if you have been following the jetting a 2004 550 or not, but, if the all things remain equal I would suggest going to the closed course jetting which would be the DVR needle @ #5, and the 40 pilot jet. I have put a 42 in mine but have not ridded it yet, but, I have run the bike and it seems more responsive off idle than with the 40 . According to Taffy's spec's the 48 pilot should be used with the stock air jet of 100, probably even more so in the cooler time of the year. I believe that with the 48 the correct idle mixture can be attained over a wider range of density altitudes, with just a twist of the idle mix screw.

So opening up the motor is off limits. So is a different oil filter out of the question? I mean it would seem to me that in the course of the 24 hours, there would be at least one filter change anyway. Just thought it might be a good idea since the bike will still be relatively new, and it is my opinion that the stainless steel mesh filters would be better able to handle the more debris that this type of test will produce. And with a paper filter, once it starts to clog up it will pass debris that is quite a bit bigger than what a stainless mesh filter will allow to pass, without a significant reduction in flow. Whereas paper filters during cold start ups can have enough resistance in flow as to cause the bypass to open until the oil heats up, again, stainless filters do not have this problem.

That's cool that you can open the suspension.

What's the plan for the lighting?

I'd say that the air filter change would be dependent on the conditions as well, but, at least at every oil change. I.E. Very dusty, more often.

If it's not too much trouble I'd change at every third tank of gas. I would say the min amount of air filte changes would be at least 6.

If it were me, I would get some no toil filters and maintenance products. I have been running the no toil system for the last 3 & 1/2 years with great success. The best thing about no toil is that all you need is some water,a bucket, and their powdered soap to clean them. And, it's all bio degradable. You can also run Twin Air filters with the no toil, but, only new ones. Not ones that have had petroleum based oils on them.