oil weeping out of this hole. what is it?

your water pump seals are bad, not a big problem just be a little careful with installing them, they are pretty sensitive. I used the steel encased seals from motoxotica.That was almost 2 years ago,I think, and no leaks yet.
98 FE 600

my suggestion is to quit riding it and pull the cam cover. i'm guessing you will find that the inner oil seal has failed between the cam and the waterpump, allowing oil to get into the airspace and out the breather hole. while you have it apart, take a critical look at the cam bearings to see if they are coming apart. there should be a ball retainer on both sides of the bearings and all the balls should be evenly spaced in the race. if i remember right, the bearing on the chain side is hard to see in place. also look in all the corners for pieces of retainer. is there oil in the water?

you type faster than i do, schultzy.

Its just that I am a little younger,,,, and maybe faster!

maybe younger :wink:

good one!

And don't forget to have a close look at the roller followers while you are there. Plenty of info in the doc about these.

Steve

before taking the cam cover off, remove the spark plug and mag cover and turn the flywheel clockwise with a non-ratcheting bar so that the marks on the flywheel line up with the one on the case about 11:00.. tdc. that will remove any cam pressure on the cover.

OTTMH you'll need to remove the water pump cover, the pump impeller and then the rocker cover. To remove the cam you need to remove the cam chain tensioner and break the cam chain, and you'll probably find a master link to enable this. Whilst its apart you might as well replace the cam bearings and the seals, one to keep oil in the engine and the other to keep coolant in the pump. They are cheap enough. Seals and bearings can be sourced from most any bearing/auto parts place. I think we use C3, but I expect its in the doc. I like to use sealed bearing and remove the inner seal so that they get lubed, but keep the oil from draining through them. Others do it differently. Then might as well do the roller followers while you are there. The doc on this site and the workshop manuals are avaiable from www.husaberg.se.

Steve

its not all that difficult. the tricky part for most people is breaking the cam chain and then finding a replacement master link (clip type or press type) that is the same width. last time i did that job, i put in a new chain because i had no idea how long the old one was in there and they aren't that expensive (relatively). changing the chain just involves linking old an new together and feeding it thru. in order to maintain proper cam timing, i pull the tensioner device (remove the center bolt and spring first so you can see how far out the plunger has gone - will also tell you how worn out the chain is) and with the flywheel marks at tdc compression (cam lobes pointing to 5 and 7 o'clock), take a marker pen and scribe a line across the cam gear so its level with the head surface. then when reassembling the chain, you line everything up and you're still in time. changing the cam bearings requires that you fashion a bearing puller. they generally aren't pressed on that tight. rocker follower bearings will also need pressed. a vise and a socket and a bolt make a good press for this. proper use of torque specs and loctite are required.
might as well give it a go, its all part of dirtbike maintenance 201. ( 101 is the oilchange type stuff, 102 the valve adjust, etc)

Have you downloaded the service manual? Good information. I really can't remember if I had to break the cam chain just to replace the seals. I remember I had to do it twice because I damaged the first set but I dont remember breaking the chain for it. So, I dont think you have too but maybe wait until hear from so oldtimers to get a second opinion. Ned, Ned, Where are you Ned!? Your knowledge and experience is required!
I just walked out to the garage in zero degree weather to get my manual so I can answer your question intelligently. Yes you do need to break the chain. Its not that hard.