Joined Feb 2018
62 Posts | 17+
San Rafael, CA
Got one good dirt ride in. Seriously fun. Now it’s all torn down getting detailed. Got the typical 70 Degree tank leak and ignition side cover oil leak. Trying to seal the tank and thinking of sanding the cover like I’ve read about. Tried a bit of sanding but it seemed like it was way too far to go. Big gaps on a piece of glass. Maybe a new gasket and some Permatex black over the top after it’s torqued will do the trick. Using JB Weld ClearWeld on the tank on a recommendation from some thread. We’ll see.
Joined Jul 2016
596 Posts | 281+
Australia, Beechworth, Vic.
A simple ‘O’ ring can prevent a leak in your sub tank. Rubber inner tubeetc.
I had a leak and used an inner tube patch. Never leaked again. They aren’t under pressure due to the tank breather. On the tank breather, look how low it is. There is more range by placing a self tapper as far back up this tank as possible. It not only allows more fuel capacity but helps fill quicker.
Sealers on gaskets are not a fan of mine. Excess can enter your oil system. Glass the cover flat and use slightly thicker gasket paper. I make my own gaskets as I keep sheets of various thickness. Gives the ability to have a gasket on hand.
Oh and welcome and enjoy one of the most reliable versatile beasts on the planet.
Joined Feb 2018
62 Posts | 17+
San Rafael, CA
Thanks for the tips. I have read that sealers could seep into the oil. I'll definitely try harder to sand the cover flat. Making my own gasket sounds promising too.
As for the O-ring fix on the tank, you have any pics? I'm not sure where you mean. One of the bolts that connects the rear plastics to the tank at the bottom was broken off and some caveman PO just took a self tapping screw and went diagonally up into the tank. So we took that out and just patched right over it. That spot is holding fuel as of now. We'll just attach a nut to the outside to hold the plastics on, or zip ties if that fails.
There's a real ugly patch on top where the red plug used to be. Smells like gas. Trying to grind off the patch and redo it.
I love the idea of faster fill time and more capacity. I'll look into relocating the vent as soon as the tank holds fuel. I'll probably need some more detail on that too. If it's holding fuel I may be a little gun shy to go banging holes into it again for a new vent, but that does sound like a great idea.
As for the O-ring fix on the tank, you have any pics? I'm not sure where you mean. One of the bolts that connects the rear plastics to the tank at the bottom was broken off and some caveman PO just took a self tapping screw and went diagonally up into the tank. So we took that out and just patched right over it. That spot is holding fuel as of now. We'll just attach a nut to the outside to hold the plastics on, or zip ties if that fails.
There's a real ugly patch on top where the red plug used to be. Smells like gas. Trying to grind off the patch and redo it.
I love the idea of faster fill time and more capacity. I'll look into relocating the vent as soon as the tank holds fuel. I'll probably need some more detail on that too. If it's holding fuel I may be a little gun shy to go banging holes into it again for a new vent, but that does sound like a great idea.
Joined Jul 2016
596 Posts | 281+
Australia, Beechworth, Vic.
I had the same one leaking as well.
Use a bit of tie wire, feed it through the side filler cap to then come out through that bottom hole that needs fixing. Slide some fuel line over the wire at the top and feed it so it comes out through the hole. The idea of the wire is to guide this fuel line. Once the fuel line is protruding place a 6mm bolt and decent sized washer that will fit through the filler ok onto the fuel line. Use hose that has the bolt very snug. Now pull the hose through so the bolt protrudes through the hole. Cut some of this hose off longer than what the tank thickness is. The idea is that when you place another washer and nut over the bolt, it will make the hose ‘swell’ as you do up the nut. You just hold the end of the bolt from turning.
Hello everyone, I also bought a Husaberg 570 from 2010 and I have a question about how to activate the fuel reserve. I read the manual of the motorcycle, but it does not say much, only the capacity of the reservation is mentioned.
Thank you very much to all.
PD: it's my first Husaberg xD
Thank you very much to all.
PD: it's my first Husaberg xD
Joined Feb 2018
62 Posts | 17+
San Rafael, CA
Man I admire your ingenuity. Great ideas abound. If I hadn't plugged that hole completely up already I would love to try that.
Update is, the tank was holding after plugging up that caveman hole in the bottom right. The red plug was buried under a pool of epoxy. Someone had obviously not had the internet and just wanted to be done with that thing. It didn't work. It smelled of gas so my dad took a dremel carefully dug into the pool and got the red plug out. It's now fixed the correct way and holding so far. Another leak was found after that. It had also been plugged by a pile of something that didn't work. It's a hole straight across from the battery box screw. It didn't have threads and had been poorly plugged when I bought the bike so I'm not sure what it was for but it was working ok without it so we'll plug that up the right way and hopefully that'll be the end.
Very much looking forward to trying to sand the ignition cover case down but I'm back in Oakland working so I'll have to do that later in the month.
The next question I have is 2 (1 intake and 1 exhaust) valves are out of spec by .02 mm and the others are in, 1 right in the middle and one just barely in and on the tight side (all on the tight side except the one in the middle of the range). Should I be shooting to get everything middle of the range or just leave the ones that are in spec alone and call it good?
Update is, the tank was holding after plugging up that caveman hole in the bottom right. The red plug was buried under a pool of epoxy. Someone had obviously not had the internet and just wanted to be done with that thing. It didn't work. It smelled of gas so my dad took a dremel carefully dug into the pool and got the red plug out. It's now fixed the correct way and holding so far. Another leak was found after that. It had also been plugged by a pile of something that didn't work. It's a hole straight across from the battery box screw. It didn't have threads and had been poorly plugged when I bought the bike so I'm not sure what it was for but it was working ok without it so we'll plug that up the right way and hopefully that'll be the end.
Very much looking forward to trying to sand the ignition cover case down but I'm back in Oakland working so I'll have to do that later in the month.
The next question I have is 2 (1 intake and 1 exhaust) valves are out of spec by .02 mm and the others are in, 1 right in the middle and one just barely in and on the tight side (all on the tight side except the one in the middle of the range). Should I be shooting to get everything middle of the range or just leave the ones that are in spec alone and call it good?
Joined Feb 2018
62 Posts | 17+
San Rafael, CA
Be thankful you have a low fuel light. My 2009 doesn’t. I figure I’ll carry a good sized fuel bottle with and that’ll be my reserve. I may get a sensor and wire in a light someday if I get ambitious.
Hope you love the bike! It’s a great one from my limited experience.
Hope you love the bike! It’s a great one from my limited experience.
Joined Feb 2018
62 Posts | 17+
San Rafael, CA
Update on the 570 project...
So far I've done:
Knobbies (the inside of the spoke nipples are pretty rusted. Any advice on that would be welcome)
Hand guards (yellow, looks so badass)
I sanded down the ignition cover successfully (I think, hasn't been tested yet). Took about 45 minutes. It was really out of whack. I wonder if they came from the factory like that.
Subframe tank leaks were super patched and pressure tested but since reinstall it's still leaking. Slower now but no doubt not fixed. Can't be sure from where. My dad said he tested the hell out of it before reinstall so maybe the fuel line between tanks?
Valve adjustment. One intake was tight by .03 mm and one exhaust was tight by .04 mm (this to get them both mid spec). One shim was cupped a bit. Wondering if this is an indication of anything for future maintenance. Let me know. Actually I have a worry about the cam chain too. I had already reinstalled the valve cover (multiple times, I was very tired of dealing with it) when I installed the cam chain tensioner. After multiple failures getting the tensioner to engage I finally did but to verify that it was engaged I unscrewed it a bit to see if I felt tension and then screwed it back in when it was clear I did. At that point I still felt unsure so I took the valve cover off again and tested the cam chain and it had tension on it (obviously should've done this originally). My question is, does my unscrewing and then rescrewing the tensioner after it's been engaged mess with the tension on the chain and am I risking damage to chain or worse, the engine? There was no oil in the tensioner since I had pushed it all out compressing it and since it's hydraulic I'm hoping that the actual tension hadn't been established until I started the bike and oil began to circulate and fill the tensioner again.
Sorry. Long winded, but I'd really hate to screw this bike up. It looks so clean inside.
Any advice or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated and much anxiety relieved.
Thanks!
So far I've done:
Knobbies (the inside of the spoke nipples are pretty rusted. Any advice on that would be welcome)
Hand guards (yellow, looks so badass)
I sanded down the ignition cover successfully (I think, hasn't been tested yet). Took about 45 minutes. It was really out of whack. I wonder if they came from the factory like that.
Subframe tank leaks were super patched and pressure tested but since reinstall it's still leaking. Slower now but no doubt not fixed. Can't be sure from where. My dad said he tested the hell out of it before reinstall so maybe the fuel line between tanks?
Valve adjustment. One intake was tight by .03 mm and one exhaust was tight by .04 mm (this to get them both mid spec). One shim was cupped a bit. Wondering if this is an indication of anything for future maintenance. Let me know. Actually I have a worry about the cam chain too. I had already reinstalled the valve cover (multiple times, I was very tired of dealing with it) when I installed the cam chain tensioner. After multiple failures getting the tensioner to engage I finally did but to verify that it was engaged I unscrewed it a bit to see if I felt tension and then screwed it back in when it was clear I did. At that point I still felt unsure so I took the valve cover off again and tested the cam chain and it had tension on it (obviously should've done this originally). My question is, does my unscrewing and then rescrewing the tensioner after it's been engaged mess with the tension on the chain and am I risking damage to chain or worse, the engine? There was no oil in the tensioner since I had pushed it all out compressing it and since it's hydraulic I'm hoping that the actual tension hadn't been established until I started the bike and oil began to circulate and fill the tensioner again.
Sorry. Long winded, but I'd really hate to screw this bike up. It looks so clean inside.
Any advice or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated and much anxiety relieved.
Thanks!
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Joined Feb 2018
62 Posts | 17+
San Rafael, CA
update
Finally set my sag last night. I have a 76-250 spring which is rated for 187 to 209 lbs and I'm only 155 plus riding gear (guessing 15 to 20 lbs). Right now I'm at 5 mm preload, 30 mm static sag, 109 mm race sag. Seems pretty close to good, at least for a good test ride in some dirt. Hoping for that this weekend but rough weather lately. A quick test ride on the road still felt way stiffer than my DR but that's to be expected. I wonder if I should keep this spring, ride it like this most of the time and then increase the preload when I gear it up for camping or is it way over-rated for my weight?
The ignition cover didn't leak on the test ride so that's amazing news. I'd be super stoked if that was fixed. Thanks to you all for the solution.
While the shock was out I took a look under the tanks to see where the fuel leak was happening and it might actually be coming from the front tank. I didn't have great light or much time so I'll have to do a more thorough inspection.
Still wondering about the cam chain tensioner. I'm new enough to bikes that I can't quite tell if it sounds right but it runs well so I'm trusting it for now.
Any advice welcome.
Thanks.
Finally set my sag last night. I have a 76-250 spring which is rated for 187 to 209 lbs and I'm only 155 plus riding gear (guessing 15 to 20 lbs). Right now I'm at 5 mm preload, 30 mm static sag, 109 mm race sag. Seems pretty close to good, at least for a good test ride in some dirt. Hoping for that this weekend but rough weather lately. A quick test ride on the road still felt way stiffer than my DR but that's to be expected. I wonder if I should keep this spring, ride it like this most of the time and then increase the preload when I gear it up for camping or is it way over-rated for my weight?
The ignition cover didn't leak on the test ride so that's amazing news. I'd be super stoked if that was fixed. Thanks to you all for the solution.
While the shock was out I took a look under the tanks to see where the fuel leak was happening and it might actually be coming from the front tank. I didn't have great light or much time so I'll have to do a more thorough inspection.
Still wondering about the cam chain tensioner. I'm new enough to bikes that I can't quite tell if it sounds right but it runs well so I'm trusting it for now.
Any advice welcome.
Thanks.
Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
Those sag numbers look good. Generally you want to have a stiffer spring more than you want a lighter spring! As long as the rear doesn't KICK! up when going over sizable bumps and you can't dial that out with the rebound damping. (This happens on the DR-Z which is super oversprung and super underdamped on the rear rebound. Neither is going on here, just a spring on the stiffer side of fine, and a quite decently set up shock). - I think you'll be fine!
Sag is a rule-of-thumb. If you drop the rear further, steering will stabilize a bit. (I recommend trying it! Just to get a feel for the effect! Even only a few mm will be noticeable.)
Keep us posted
Sag is a rule-of-thumb. If you drop the rear further, steering will stabilize a bit. (I recommend trying it! Just to get a feel for the effect! Even only a few mm will be noticeable.)
Keep us posted
Joined Jul 2016
596 Posts | 281+
Australia, Beechworth, Vic.
I just use my ‘trail’ settings when ADVing. Try to balance your load. Remember you have the subtank to the rear so any luggage you fit out here will add to the rear bias. Run a tank bag and consider fitting tools to your front fender. Make sure your bike has the fender brace.
Joined Feb 2018
62 Posts | 17+
San Rafael, CA
Those sag numbers look good. Generally you want to have a stiffer spring more than you want a lighter spring! As long as the rear doesn't KICK! up when going over sizable bumps and you can't dial that out with the rebound damping. (This happens on the DR-Z which is super oversprung and super underdamped on the rear rebound. Neither is going on here, just a spring on the stiffer side of fine, and a quite decently set up shock). - I think you'll be fine!
Sag is a rule-of-thumb. If you drop the rear further, steering will stabilize a bit. (I recommend trying it! Just to get a feel for the effect! Even only a few mm will be noticeable.)
Keep us posted
Perfect. That's great info. Planning to ride it hard the next few months and see how it feels. So easy to adjust I'll definitely mess with different settings.
Yeah. I've read a lot about the rear bias with these bikes. I've seen some pics with dudes putting the big Wolfman bags on the tank. No way I can ride like that. My knees go right there! But I'll definitely get something to put some weight up front. Maybe I can get away with the mid size rollies. Thinking about getting a skid plate tool box made too.
Joined Jul 2016
596 Posts | 281+
Australia, Beechworth, Vic.
Force in Dandenong Melb make a combo 2 litre tank tool box plate.
I got them to make up a batch of 4 litre fuel tank/bash plates. Brilliant. With I could post pics for you. Are you on Facebook? If so link to me, Alan Howarth and I’ll send some pics. Check out the Husaberg 70 deg forum.
The most success I’ve had is Kriega panniers down back, the 70* tank, the 4 litre bash plate tank, tank bag and a bag for tools etc on the rear guard. It does sound like more rear bias but it works. You can still back it in, slide it out with control. A mate on his Berg strapped his bum bag across the rear guard. It worked so good.
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