New to me FE570

Weird. I was just reading about that bash plate just this second or something very similar on advrider. Are you AussieADV by chance? Saw it in the Berg for the High Country thread. That bash plate looks badass.

Yup. Been reading that one for a while. Kinda feel like I have to go back to the beginning and take notes. So much valuable info! I'll post my bike in there soon just to join the community.

Alan said:

Yep n yep Jake...

This thread also Jake...

Husaberg 70 Degree Owners Thread! | Page 490 | Adventure Rider

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Suspension update...

Man, rough weekend. I got my sag settings where I thought they looked pretty good the weekend before last as previously posted. Rode the bike twice the following week but just a few blocks around town. Then last Friday I went in to prep the bike for a ride Saturday, lifted the bike and immediately the shock leaked a bunch of it's oil all over the place. It just absolutely let go with no action on my part that I can tell.
Is there something I may have done in setting the preload or remounting the shock?
Is there a fix I can do on my own or better to have a suspension shop refill it and check the seals?

ALSO
I found out my left rebound clicker on the top of the fork is stripped or just turning forever. It still clicks but just doesn't stop. The right one is a bit weird too. I'd like to get these working up to spec. I read a thread on here about a 390 doing the same thing. I hope it's as simple as his fix was.

Tough discoveries on a new to me bike but I know it's all part of the process.
Let me know what you all think.

Yup. I think you're right. I talked Super Plush here in San Francisco yesterday. I'll get the shock serviced and in the long run get the whole thing set up by them. I'm sure it'll be amazing. Gotta save up some dough!

Update on the 570 project...

I got the shock serviced. No explanation on the weird nature of the failure but it is what it is. It just needed to be serviced I'm sure. The shock has a bunch of upgraded business in it. That's interesting to hear. I got the oil and the bladder redone and I have no idea what state it was in before so now I have to reset the sag. We'll see this weekend what numbers I can pull off. Super Plush said the 76-250 (I'm 155 lbs) is fine for now since it's lowered. And I've also heard on here that a stiffer shock is a good thing for the rear weighted nature of the bike. I found out that the lowering shim is 7mm which I think equates to lowered by 1 inch. That's what the previous owner said so that makes sense. With that knowledge: total travel of 335 mm minus the inch of lowering gives me a travel of 310 mm (hence the stiffer shock), and 33 percent of that is 102 mm race sag. Shooting for that.
Does that make sense to everyone out there?

Tonight I put a 14 tooth front sprocket on. 14/50 now as opposed to 15/50. 15/50 felt like it want to kill me on the technical stuff. A blip of the throttle was immediate light speed. I'm on the cusp of being a novice rider so we'll see if this is more controllable while I learn. I'll also play with the mild setting as opposed to the wild.

Just to be sure, there no instructions in the manual for front sprocket work. I just put the new one on. No grease, loctite blue, 60 Nm torque spec from the book. Anything I should be aware of?

My chain guide is pretty loose. Is that normal or should I look at replacing that?

Other questions:
My clutch doesn't allow the bike to roll freely when I'm pushing it around and it pulls a bit when the bike is cold and I pop into 1st. I've read this is a Berg/KTM thing but is this true or should I look into it? The previous owner said he put a new clutch in. My local mechanic (who hates KTM (but now owns a Husky 501)) advised me this was not normal. Not sure what to think.

Also, does anyone have a tool list for this bike? An essentials you take on trips type of thing? I took my tool roll from my DR and added to it what I needed as I went for the Berg, but now it's way too much. I think I could get rid of a few things.

The adventure continues!!

Perfect. Good info. I'll replace the guides.

I do see some weeping around the clutch slave so I'll check the fluid and see about rebuilding the slave.

Thanks!

Rainerio said:

It’s not a bad idea to replace all the chain guides there cheap. Try adjusting your clutch as tight as your comfortable with..... he may have replaced some parts of the clutch but not all. A common problem is slow leaking slave cylinder check master to see if it’s low? I have one and every 6 month I refill it. Allballs makes a rebuilding kit don’t how well it works. I got one but haven’t tried it yet

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Yeah! Can't wait to ride the new shock.

I'm glad to know that 570s kinda do that grabby clutch thing. It's not terrible. It killed the bike twice cold but never any other time. But it does make it tough to start unless you're in neutral, which I think is how you're supposed to do it anyway but I get in a hurry on the trail sometimes.

tourist said:

Suspension: sounds good!

Clutch: sounds like mine! My 570's clutch is completely different than my DRZ400's clutch. The DRZ clutch clutches completely out and is more docile overall, but the 570 feels tight and aggressive. Has been about like that on those 'Bergs I've ridden. You get used to it, if it's like mine. If it's hardcore grabby then it might be off in some way of course.

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Great. I'll make that the standard I shoot for. I'll check the fluid level this weekend.

Alan said:

Jake, when cold just give the throttle a blip when clicking it in gear. It shouldn’t ‘drag’ at this point if adjusted properly.

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I also need to rebuild the rear fender a bit. Riding last weekend 4 of 6 screws fell out and the whole thing hit the rear tire a couple times. Bent the hell out of my plate and ripped both turn signals off. Ha. Man, I can't win. We just duct taped it up and kept riding. I jumped this thing for the first time. Holy hell it's fun. From the DR to this is like another world. I love this bike. I hope I can make it stay in one piece while I ride it. I read no loctite on plastic so how do I keep those screws in? I was thinking a little dab of silicone on top of each. And a strap around the whole assembly for good measure. Seems every screw that goes into plastic is stripped and barely holding so I need to find a solution.

Alan said:

The plastic screws are great. Just that they are ruined by those with a heavy hand. If stripped they’ll only pull out again. Try and source some larger screws. Grind the point off. I had to do this with a couple. Drill straight through and fit set screws and nuts? Either of these or replace the plastics. You just need to go over the whole bike. They stay together as well as any if set up right.

Yes brilliant bike.

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Yeah. Maybe larger diameter screws is the answer. I can't really replace the plastics as the plastic that's stripped is the subframe and the main fuel tanks. I tried plumbers tape wrapped a bunch of times around the bolts that hold the shrouds to the main tank but that wasn't enough. If bigger screws/bolts is the solution I'll get into that next. Definitely some heavy hands working on this bike in the past. Much evidence to that effect.

Update...

I've been riding every weekend and loving this thing more and more. Really trying to work on technique and getting faster. Such an easier bike to learn on than the DR. So weekend before last I rode to the gas station before loading up for the trip to the trails. I had almost no back brake which was concerning. I had felt the break lock up a bit when I was backing it out of the van after the last ride but I had hit the pedal once and it ceased to be a problem. I cleaned the chain that week and made sure the brake was working and not dragging too bad. Seemed fine so I was surprised it was barely working that morning. To make matters worse I had gained enough confidence in my rear tank fixes that I filled to the top to check my mileage in the dirt. Bad idea. It leaked worse than ever and I just stood and stared at it waterfalling gas down both sides of the bike. I had to ride it home like that and just leave it in the back yard to leak till it was done. The leak finally slowed enough to be able to ride it to my mechanic friend's shop. He shoved the rear brake caliper over toward the wheel and pumped it back out with the pedal a couple times and it sorted it out. Thankful for that knowledge. I wouldn't have guessed to try that.

The gas leak I'm assuming was the red plug at the top of the subframe tank. The JBWeld Clearweld seems to be holding strong where it would easily fail if it wasn't gas safe so that red plug must be the culprit. I'll have to retreat those threads. We couldn't find the yellow teflon tape that was recommended so my dad used Rectorseal. I hope that was the weak link and I can seal that some other way and be done with that tank for a while.

After that morning of problem solving we went to the trails and rode our ***** off. So fun. I got so comfortable I was feeling faster than I've ever felt. On the last hill climb to get back to the van I decided to rock 3rd gear which I rarely hit since this bike is scary fast. The speed put my weight back and I started to lose it. Then I hit a good bump that popped my front wheel up, which pushed me back even more so I accidentally yanked on the throttle, which then looped the thing out. So crazy. I've never done that before. It landed on it's rear end and ripped off the plastics and then fell over and bent the handlebars. Brutal. I nursed it back to the van cracking up at how full of myself I had gotten. Got the parts in the mail today, the black plastic under the rear fender and new handlebars... 100 bucks. Not bad. Back in business by the weekend I hope.

I’m doing a 300 mile dirt ride coming up and I want to carry about 5 lbs of tools, a jacket, and some fuel, under 10 lbs total. Does this seem like a bad idea? Not much support right there obviously. More forward and it’s right in the way. I’ll want to put more weight on later but lower and more supported by the subframe. I’ll probably try this weekend and see how this feels.

Yeah, maybe I’ll try tank bag style. The bike already hits me in the *** sometimes. I won’t be riding super hard on this ride though. Gotta make it to the end.

Alan said:

Jake, be careful with too high the gear on the back. If you shift weight to compensate for leaping over humps, mounds, jumps etc the gear on the back can restrict your movement and send you over the bars. Can be very dangerous. Buy a cheap small back pack and strap it on like a tank bag. You can run gear down the back, just be careful of its height. Some tall blokes don’t have any issues as they go back over the gear. I can run some but not too high.

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