footpeg´s - modified for long legs?

Hey mate i'm pretty sure Steve who is a member here by that name has done exactly that check out his gallery and maybe pm him i'm sure he would be happy to fill you in on best way to do it.
Regards Pete

Hiya Husa 98, not sure of other peoples experience with that geometry/riding position, but on the welding side;

if u have access to the equipment, TIG would be the ideal method of welding on frames/attachments due to better control of heat input/weld bead profile. Failing that, either SMAW or MIG will work, but require a bit more attention to weld set up/parameters/profile.

Be sure the correct consumables are used (folks on this site with prior experience?), & that component assembly fit-up allows for adequate weld penetration, with no dirt/paint/grease etc wherever possible to remove contaminants from the equation.

Finally, be sure to eliminate stress raisers (fusion defects, stop/start weld cracking, poor weld profile etc), as this will reduce the likelihood of cracking issues down the road.

Hope this helps

Crispin

apparently the factory boys liked the footrests back and i know steve does. down though? not so sure? go to gallery and to 'steve' armin ok?

regards

Taffy

G'day Armin,

The adjustable KTM/Berg pegs were/are a bit of a disappointment
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php
Their adjustment range is designed to go up and forward, not down and back which was my objective as per my 98 FE501
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php
which was/is really good.

I got the pegs packaged with the bike and assumed they'd be OK, but not so. They are now for sale if anyone is interested?

I've recently fitted some Fastway pegs http://www.promotobillet.com/catalog/pr ... cts_id/388 to the 650 which are adjustable pivot and have given me what I wanted. Not ridden with them yet though. You can change the cleats for different heights and the bushing position on the mount as well as the vertical angle to the bike. They ended up about 8-10 mm down and about +/- 15 mm back. I'll take some photos and measure them up properly and update my gallery when I can get out of the house and up to the shed. I got the knee reconstructed last week and its splinted and I'm on crutches and not real mobile for a few weeks. Only 173 sleeps to go before my next proper ride!!!!!

I used oxy acetylene welding on my 98 pegs. The mild steel new bits welded OK to the Chrome Moly originals. I certainly didn't hit the first jumps real hard though!

As you no doubt realise, current Bergs will take a current KTM peg, whereas the older ones are Berg specific.

Whatever you do, make sure the kick start is not fouled, and you may have to change your foot position a bit when kicking.

Steve

could move the steering head forward

if it goes far enough forward then it will handle like an 09 ? !

I seem to recall that Pollo did a cut and weld of some standard pegs recently. Try pm him for details.

Steve

Hobbled out to the shed today and actually measured up the pegs. I set them up in a vice and took some measurements, the Fastways end up 12 mm back and 8 mm down compared to standard. No more guesses, this is what it is.

Some pics in my gallery,
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... php&page=4

I suspect that by grinding off the lower boss and replacing it with a washer on top as I did with the Force ones and welding on a bit at the back to move the heel instep back then you could get 3-4 mm down and 10-12 mm back without compromising the original pegs strength, just wear a bit quicker due to a thinner boss.

Steve

Hum...for what it's worth - I kind of appreciate the forward positioning on the Husa, It felt cramped to begin with, but getting used to it I definitely feel more "active" than I did on my old orange 450 exc that had more room for my 193 cm's.
I don't even run a handlebar riser setup now, I'm happy with it.

Mine is a 08 fe450, but I assume they're all quite similar.

Rgds

/J

If the stock position works for you then great, less to do and less expense.

For me, I have dodgy knees and need to reduce the stress on them as much as possible, so on my 650, even with a high factory seat and the lowered pegs I still have less leg room than on my wife's KLX300, albeit with widened pegs, and therefore 10 mm rearset pegs. (Its the back of the peg that defines the position as thats what locks your heel instep in)

I also like them back as I like to stand a lot and the stock Berg position means that even with high bars I am off balance. Bars up and as far forward as possible, ie bar ends in line with head axis to avoid kickback, and pegs back means that I can get more 'triangulation' in my upper body which means that I can stand and relax and be in control. I also have a stiff right elbow, it only bends about 25 deg which doesn't help either.

I have 3 fundamental things that I aim to achieve with my bikes,
1 reliability through sensible setup and maintenance
2 ergonomics, I've got to be comfortable
3 suspension working for me and not against me which assists in objective 2

I can, and do get the opportunity to pretty much ride anything, although modern sports road bikes have have become a challenge to get my feet on the pegs, but to attack you need to be relaxed and comfortable and have a bike that helps you and not hinder in that objective. Thats why I still like my old ZX9 for road and track work, with a sheepskin seat cover, Ohlins kitted forks and WP kitted rear shock with a hydraulic preload adjuster and a different suspension link courtesy of my mate Frank Pons its comfortable and predictable, and the engine is fast enough too.

Shifting the pegs on the Bergs assists me with that objective.

Steve

been measuring up a n 08 yzf450 as compared to the berg

there are a lot of ways to alter weight distribution between the wheels, wheelbase sag influence balance point etc but basically if I move my footpegs about 55mm back and or some odd mixture of both the steering head or swingarm mounts 30mm forward its starting to get closer to the yz.

all that weighting toward the front is probably very good for a lot of things but high speed sand whoops are not among them.

so do I cut the steering head off and put it back on 25-30mm forward like the factory guys or move the pegs back or do both hmmm

bollocks I need a new hub first.

bushmechanic said:

been measuring up a n 08 yzf450 as compared to the berg

there are a lot of ways to alter weight distribution between the wheels, wheelbase sag influence balance point etc but basically if I move my footpegs about 55mm back and or some odd mixture of both the steering head or swingarm mounts 30mm forward its starting to get closer to the yz.

all that weighting toward the front is probably very good for a lot of things but high speed sand whoops are not among them.

so do I cut the steering head off and put it back on 25-30mm forward like the factory guys or move the pegs back or do both hmmm

bollocks I need a new hub first.

Click to expand...

Have you measured the weight distribution before and after the footpeg move? It would be interesting to know how much the balance point/weight moves aft. I think it was Taffy who suggested using two scales under the wheels and recording the readings.

I did lower my pegs. I cut them with a die grinder and lowered them directly a 1/2 inch and welded them back together. They are down but not back. I got a fuzzy pic. You may be able to see some teeth down in the weld.
Pollo

You could try the high seat helped me a bit.

Cheers spanner

You could try the high seat helped me a bit.

Cheers spanner

Hello Husa,
Just some added info on my pegs. I did a precise cut to separate the footrest itself from the holder part of it . I then lowered it directly down about 1/2 inch or 13mm.Then welded it back. I haven't noticed any negatives with it. I really like the feel. I'm just thinking you went down enough more than me to notice a boot hangup on that hoilder. I haven't.

Pollo