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FE450e 2004 dies on throttle and starts again

Joined Apr 2014
44 Posts | 8+
Serbia
On acceleration, hard or soft, will randomly die and will restart only if engine stops reving. Meaning if bike is still rolling i pull clutch to allow engine to stop reving and release clutch slowly and engine will start again and run normally. Also will restart normally on kick or e-start.
When cold will start with choke on first kick and when warm on e-start. Runs good, will pop on exhaust on closed throttle. Checked everything, carb, valves, new spark plug, TPS disconnected, new spark cap, new battery, air gap on crank sensor, all cables and connectors. Also measured values on stator. All good except white-yellow wire. On one multimeter im geting 0,08 ohms and on other 0 ohms and manual says that should be 0,16ohms. Headlight is working normally.
 
sounds like you may be running out of fuel in the carb due to restricted fuel line, plugged tank cap vent, crap on the carb needle valve screen, or too low float level. or a combo of the above.
 
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This can also happen with restricted air flow. You have checked air intake yah? I do agree with Ned as more than likely something is going on with fuel in carb or flow.
 
BLOCKED PILOT JET.

then set the PS for highest idle speed, then reduce the idle.

regards

Taffy
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vent-hose-k...m2c7873eb2d:m:m8VtoZlgQ3CgK2dV0luyGDw&vxp=mtrCheck and see that your carburetor vent and overflow lines are not, blocked, crushed or melted closed. They get very hard over time and can kink also. If you or someone has changed the vent hoses there is a potential that they are too small of a inner diameter. I think that the FCR takes a 4mm hose but most replacement line sold at stores is 3mm. If you struggle to get the vent line on or if you must heat it get it over the nipple then its too small. There is an e-bay seller that sells the correct size.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vent-hose-kit-Keihin-FCR-MX-carburetor-OEM-pink-breather-carb-KTM-HONDA-etc-/190999423789?hash=item2c7873eb2d:m:m8VtoZlgQ3CgK2dV0luyGDw&vxp=mtr


s-l500.jpg
 
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Checked float level. Was little bit off. Set it to be parallel to carb cap line while carb is leaned about 45 degrees. Nothing really changed. Still cuting off randomly on acceleration. Vent lines looking good. One that is near exhaust was little melted and I cut it just above melted part. Is length of lines important?
What worries me is the fact that engine will restart only if completely stops revving. If engine dies for example on 80 kmh and i let go throttle or whatever will not start again. Just clutch in and out will wake engine. Looks more like electrical problem to me. Any ideas?
 
could be your coil?
could be that the plug has had enough?
could be the HT lead and/or the plug cap?

finally, you could try dropping the needle TWO CLIPS. so clip 5 to clip 3 for example. it could be very rich.

didn't mention what PJ you have fitted or whether it was clear or not?

Taffy
 
Checked coil with multimeter and it looks good. Spark and cap is new.
Idle screw is ~2 turns out. Carb is completely stock. All jets are clean. Only thing that is not stock is crank case vent. Rear is plugged and on front there a pipe to air box. In air box there is small amount of oil. Will try with needle drop.
 
Moved needle clip 2 up and much better and smoother running now. But issue with engine dieing still exists. Will try to go one more step with needle clip because still have poping under acceleration.
 
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One more thing. Sometimes when engine cuts out speedometer would get confused and stuck on one speed reading. Could it be stator problem? Light are working fine...
Resistance readings on white-yellow wire are 0,08 ohms...
 
Will check valves one more time...
And just remembered one more thing. Some times on constant speed exhaust would change sound and throttle response would be very weak and if I pull clutch and press kill switch to stop engine and restart engine with releasing clutch it will run normally with deeper exhaust note and throttle response. To me it looks like some sort of electrical problem. When engine stops revving it will stop power supply to CDI? right? It looks like cdi would reset and continue running until next voltage oscillation.
 
i still think you're running out of fuel. sometimes when you've been in the bowl too many times, the brass vent tube pointing down gets bent and keeps the float from properly dropping.
 
Removed magnet cover and found little scratches inside magnet. Is it possible to have so much radial play in crank bearings that magnet touched stator under load and cause electrical short circuit.
 
Considering that I bought bike month ago with 260 hours on clock rebuild was planned but was hoping it will last until bad weather.
 
I'm in the middle of engine rebuild. Will change main bearings. Conrod looks OK also liner and piston are inside limits. Machinist measured 0.04 clearance between piston and liner. But rings are on upper limit. Can I put wossner or prox rings on original piston?
 

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