09 Forks Strip !

Taffy said:

whato Bowser

I think the first thing I would do now that you've had the suspension done is to get the ride heights and sags written here. how far the forks are through, where you sit etc and also how well it turns slow speed round a barrel type of thing?

I have found that getting the steering and balance of the bike right goes hand in hand with suspension. at the moment you seem too soft on the front or too heavy. the face shim on the MV and also two stage compression BV is hard to improve as a NASA scientist has to work out that one.

I would have thought that that MV face 13 needs upping to at least a 16. and I would up the 12 between the 24s in your BV to at least a 16 as well as pulling one of the 13s.

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

I need to measure the sag for the front (bit late now), forks are sitting with the top line flush with the top of the clamps, i am a lazy rider and do tend to sit a lot (although trying to improve this), tend to sit just behind the tank in the normal area, ie: not on the tank and not on the back of the seat.
slow speed turning seems fine, bike doesn't drop in but turns ok, I think my riding technique needs work too

I'll go and track down some shims tomorrow if possible and try to set up up as per Cimwell/Slopies setup. i'm thinking Cimwell's comp might be a bit stiff for my speed?

Terry's not a fool, perhaps you're out on your set-up a little or it needs a small tweak. When I know I have plenty to do i tend to get the MV done first and then do the BV by turning the steed over and just pulling the comp caps out the bottom. you can sometimes do two BV changes after a MV change - all for the price of one fork strip = not bad!

I tend to try the preload by feel by taking the rear spring preload 1/2 a turn either way and then set the fork height for steering. then i look at what they measured and take it from there. with the 19TCs these turn on a sixpence anyway and grip well so they don't need jacking at the rear I think. looks like 100-105 rear rider sag is about right although as i say, I like to get the feel of the suspension right then look at the handling through the fork height.

regards

Taffy

hey Bowser

you have the type 2 Gv's with the restrictor stack, these are things I have no experience with. you also have them in an 09 which I also have no expereice with :lol: . but you sent me a well thought out PM so I might as well answer it here.

you can alter the port size and the preload on the BV shims by changing the shims that fit inside the little recess. so it looks like a 2 stage BV but its not really.

the MV float measurement is very important

the bleed hole is not present as stock, your MV has bleed shims if you drill the MV as shown by mud400 on the previous page then you have a bleed hole. the main advantage is it will free up the forks for short movements particulary on rebound.

I recommend as before that you put cimwills stacks in on the stock Bvs and have a tinker to get a feel for the changes, having the G2Rs port size and prelaod as a variable is perhaps a hinderence at this stage.

also have a fiddle with the oil height and the main spring preload, if you're going for improving the feel of the forks forget about sag or you'l spend hours going round in circles. just reduce the preload and ride increase and ride to see what it does.

FWIW the main thing I change on RT setups is the HS rebound in the shock, I make it stiffer, this changes the whole bike.

cimwills stacks may look stiffer but just give them a go, stiffer is not allways harsher.

have you tried the 14mm tripples ?

HTH

Great thread.
I did a lot of work on the valve stacks on my old bike, but nor ridden the Berg enough to tell what needs changing yet.
Has anybody got any information on the 2010 bikes?

Taffy said:

Terry's not a fool, perhaps you're out on your set-up a little or it needs a small tweak. When I know I have plenty to do i tend to get the MV done first and then do the BV by turning the steed over and just pulling the comp caps out the bottom. you can sometimes do two BV changes after a MV change - all for the price of one fork strip = not bad!

I tend to try the preload by feel by taking the rear spring preload 1/2 a turn either way and then set the fork height for steering. then i look at what they measured and take it from there. with the 19TCs these turn on a sixpence anyway and grip well so they don't need jacking at the rear I think. looks like 100-105 rear rider sag is about right although as i say, I like to get the feel of the suspension right then look at the handling through the fork height.

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

Found out today that my front fork springs are actually still the standard .44's according to wire dia, coil dia and free coils. They were measured when he done up my suspension and claimed they didn't need replacing cause they were already .46's! :angry:

no wonder i'm getting headshake!

Since you specifically asked me for a comment I will share my thoughts about this.
Keep in mind that I have no experience with this piston at all and none with the 09 fork. This is the OC fork?, yes?
Comp
18x0.1x3
13x0.1x2 these + the shims above are likely a filler of the plate recess, remove one here if you want stack preload, or rather just grind one of them down to .05 or so using wet and dry if you cant find a shim of that thickness. (assuming the recess is .5)
24x0.1x2 these are covering the plate , intuitively i feel this part is a bit on the soft side especially considering the relatively large plate area, its full 24 mm diameter for low compression speed, i'd not start with less than x4 or even 5 here and increase the number from there, to my eyes the stack is looking weak now.
12x0.1 or you could try moving this one down the stack. Maybe replace it with a 14 mm shim as well.
24x0.1
21x0.1
19x0.1
17x0.1
14x0.1
13x0.1
12x0.1
16x0.25

TH is as Taf said no fool and likely a tuner vey well aware of, and indeed deliberately using, cavitation, but I doubt that you will be able to get him into any discussion about it since these discussions tend to get lengthy and still not getting anywhere.
Cavitation is perceived as general unpleasant harsh and too often caused by too weak compression stacks.
Plush sounds nice but if the road is rough the ride will be rough, what you can get is firm, control and smooth OR soft, rodeo and harsh. Firmer compression stacking may be perceived as less harsh and less unpleasant.
Regards.

Cimwill, with the help of your stacks and bushy, today ive just finished converting 08 530 EXC forks off a friends bike to 2010 cartridge internals and your specs.

Only difference is ive fitted 4.8 N/mm fork springs, preload adjuster turned all the way out, thin nylon washers installed under caps to give approx 6mm spring pre-load as a starting point. 130mm oil level, SKF seals, <07 lower fork guards and slider ring. Clickers at your settings 18 & 18, forks installed in triple clamps at first line.

Just had shock serviced and revalved, fitted 76-250 spring, sag 110mm rider, static approx 35mm, 7mm spring pre-load. Not sure of shock shim specs as was done buy a shop.

Fitted all up to my 2010 400 EXC, testing on Sunday. Have been running TTX on my 400 for the past 40 hours so will be interesting to see how it all feels. :?: Hope to get it feeling good, pull it out and send back to him ready to bolt up and go.

I'm taking it one step at a time and the .46s I tried on sunday just didn't hold up. I weigh 210LB. so it's .48s next.

regards

Taffy