09 FE 450 Boiling fuel

Any updates on the boiling fuel issues?

I rode a gnarly 200 mile technical ride on Saturday.. Like many of you my fuel boiled. I have my tank fully wrapped with the DEI tape and I use the hardparts billet cap, I'm thinking of hogging out the pinhole size vent in the cap just to give me more venting. My next step will be wrapping the exhaust and installing the fan kit and use lower octane fuel... Anything else?
:mrgreen:

I would suggest using the DEI header wrap as it is very easy to use compared to other wraps and it does make a huge difference in radiated heat.

The addition of the fan kit will also help a great deal. It is kind of ironic but it might be a good idea to install the 85C temp switch instead of the supplied 100C switch as this will bring on the fan earlier and help get rid of heat sooner. By ironic I mean that it used to be that everyone used to try and find / search for a higher temp switch to keep the fan from pulling all the battery charging power, but now the bike is all DC so this is no longer an issue.

It may also help to drill small holes in the flange that seals the seat to the radiator shrouds, as this will help lower the temperature of the air entering the motor, which will in turn lower the EGT by that amount, and the IAT sensor will see a lower temp and richen the mixture slightly thus lowering the head temps even further.

I used the KTM Hardparts Aluminum Reflective Barrier (adhesive-backed) to heat-protect the bottom of my tank.
Unfold the material and let if lie flat for a while. The fold lines will never fully come out -- don't worry about it.





Remove the gas tank, drain it and securely prop it up.
Clean the heck out of it!! Use rubbing alcohol and a coarse cloth. The cleaner you get it, the better the alumiunum barrier will stick. I also used a heat gun to make sure that the surface was completely dry.



I cut and used notebook paper to make a paper template. Then used the template to cut out the aluminum sheeting:



When applying the aluminum sheets .... GO SLOW ... BE PATIENT ... and work with SMALL AREAS.
Remember, this stuff does *not* stretch. So you need to cut your paper templates with that in mind and be careful around compound curves. In places like that, use several smaller pieces and overlap their edges. A heat gun ... used wisely ... is a a huge help in getting the aluminum sheeting to soften, mold, and adhere. But go slowly and carefully and err on the side of caution:



I also did the winglets:



One package is quite enough. I ended up with plenty of material left over. Of course, I forgot to put it on my 70D sub-frame tank as well when I installed it at a later date. arghh.



Done and installed - here's what mine looked like:
NOTE the extra care given to the wiring bundle.
== Wiring bundle zip-ties were cut off, wires were restacked in a more "vertical" manner to get extra spacing to avoid rubbing on the shock resovoir body.
== And a section of bicycle inner-tube was placed around the wiring bundle to avoid any chafing issues with the top of the engine case.





The black pipe in the lower-right is my mid-pipe that I had ceramic-coated, inside and out:



All of these items have helped me avoid the dreaded heat-trap/heat-soak/boil-de-gas and screw up the fuel pump:

== getting the ECU reflashed with the competion map
== ceramic-coating the mid-pipe
== installing a radiator fan
== removing the one-way, in-line vent
== using Engine Ice in the cooling system
== running an Akropovic slip-on exhaust (to help reduce back-pressure) with a 92db "quiet-tip" insert (to control noise)
== and installing the heat barrier on the bottom of the gas tank.

Hope this helps. Cheers! E-Ticket

Outstanding job!!!!!

DaleEO said:

Outstanding job!!!!!

Click to expand...

Well, t'ank kew!
Just trying to pay back some of the excellent help that I've recieved on Husaberg.org. :^)

Cheers! E-Ticket

Nice work Eticket! Thanks Dale... I'll do the wrap... BTW, the subtank has been outstanding..