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Hi Coastie,
The reason it still runs is when you start to generate electric if the voltage is high enough it basically pushes it's way through but will not be very stable hence all of a sudden it will stop and could take some time to restart. You will probably find if you take the plug out it will be as black as the Ace of spades.
Cost to rewind your stator will be 190 Eros plus an extra 8 Euros for post.
Regards
Steve.
The reason it still runs is when you start to generate electric if the voltage is high enough it basically pushes it's way through but will not be very stable hence all of a sudden it will stop and could take some time to restart. You will probably find if you take the plug out it will be as black as the Ace of spades.
Cost to rewind your stator will be 190 Eros plus an extra 8 Euros for post.
Regards
Steve.
Hi Sparks
Yep you're on the money there, the plug is pretty black but I thought the cause was running too rich.
All my troubles may be the stator all along.
I've found some other probs with my Hussey recently (like water in the oil) so I have to find the cause of this and see what the damage is - literally and budgetary.
I'm hoping it's just a water pump shaft seal and not the head gasket.
Only had the bike a couple of months now so I guess it's 'welcome to the world of Hussey ownership'.
When and if it goes it does really go though.
Shayne
__________________
03 fe650e - sometimes in the bush
Yep you're on the money there, the plug is pretty black but I thought the cause was running too rich.
All my troubles may be the stator all along.
I've found some other probs with my Hussey recently (like water in the oil) so I have to find the cause of this and see what the damage is - literally and budgetary.
I'm hoping it's just a water pump shaft seal and not the head gasket.
Only had the bike a couple of months now so I guess it's 'welcome to the world of Hussey ownership'.
When and if it goes it does really go though.
Shayne
__________________
03 fe650e - sometimes in the bush
Hi,
Just thought this might be of some interest to somebody, it's a photo of four SEM stripped source coils from a stator a guy sent me from Seattle. You can see the thin green lines, this is where the enamel has deteriated and the copper wire has oxidised when the moisture gets in, this brings shorted turns(low voltage output) or compete open circuit.
All so you can see how tarnished the copper wire is should be a bright copper colour.
Sparks.
Just thought this might be of some interest to somebody, it's a photo of four SEM stripped source coils from a stator a guy sent me from Seattle. You can see the thin green lines, this is where the enamel has deteriated and the copper wire has oxidised when the moisture gets in, this brings shorted turns(low voltage output) or compete open circuit.
All so you can see how tarnished the copper wire is should be a bright copper colour.
Sparks.
Attachments
A bit of interesting feed back regarding SEM ignition stators, most of the stators I rewind are totally open circuit across black and red but there are some that come in that give a reasonable reading, when I rewind this kind of stator the feed back from the customer is nearly always the same.
Usually there initial problem has been bad starting and what appears to be an over richness of fuel one or two people leaned off the mixture and this cured the problem for a short time until the same problem returned.
What happens when you get under voltage to the coil is one the spark is weak and two the spark duration is shorter, in turn this gives bad combustion which gives the impression that the engine is running rich.
When they refit the rewound stator they find they have to rejet the carb because now the spark duration is longer which in turn gives better combustion and now require more fuel.
They also go on to say that starting is a whole lot easier kick or lecky.
So if suddenly you start having starting problems or the engine starts to become over rich for no apparent reason it could be a sign of ignition problems but check for needle and nozzle wear first.
Sparks.
Usually there initial problem has been bad starting and what appears to be an over richness of fuel one or two people leaned off the mixture and this cured the problem for a short time until the same problem returned.
What happens when you get under voltage to the coil is one the spark is weak and two the spark duration is shorter, in turn this gives bad combustion which gives the impression that the engine is running rich.
When they refit the rewound stator they find they have to rejet the carb because now the spark duration is longer which in turn gives better combustion and now require more fuel.
They also go on to say that starting is a whole lot easier kick or lecky.
So if suddenly you start having starting problems or the engine starts to become over rich for no apparent reason it could be a sign of ignition problems but check for needle and nozzle wear first.
Sparks.
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2004
- Messages
- 1,340
- Location
- nova scotia
Interesting comment Sparks.I would assume this would apply to any ign system and engine that developes a rich condition for no apparent reason.
You mentioned that the stator coils may give readings that are not very far from spec.Is there any way to verify this condition causing poor spark? Or is it a exclude everything else sort of thing?
You mentioned that the stator coils may give readings that are not very far from spec.Is there any way to verify this condition causing poor spark? Or is it a exclude everything else sort of thing?
Yes indeed nsman this problem can exist in all ignitions that rely on stator voltage to power the system but I was just keeping it to the SEM system because this is the one that causes the most trouble.
The re-jetting lean on the four stroke is not as serious as on the two stroke thats a bit more serious.
When I used to work on the TZ's that had the same problems as with the Husaberg they didn't bother to re-jet and now the engine is running lean and this lead to many seizures.
Dare I explain it again or should I say when testing the spark jump gap make sure it is as far away as possible from the plug hole just in case there is any petrol mixture in the cylinder.
A good stator should jump a spark of around 8 to 10 mm without really having to hammer the kick start. But even when the engine is running it my not be running to it's full potential and you my find you my have to alter carb settings all through the rev range.
All I'm trying to say is if anybody starts to have starting problems for no apparent reasons and the carb settings have always proved good and the resistance readings from the stator come within spec test the spark jump distance if you find the kick start has to be really hammered for the spark to jump this distance then the stator is on it's way out.
Sparks.
The re-jetting lean on the four stroke is not as serious as on the two stroke thats a bit more serious.
When I used to work on the TZ's that had the same problems as with the Husaberg they didn't bother to re-jet and now the engine is running lean and this lead to many seizures.
Dare I explain it again or should I say when testing the spark jump gap make sure it is as far away as possible from the plug hole just in case there is any petrol mixture in the cylinder.
A good stator should jump a spark of around 8 to 10 mm without really having to hammer the kick start. But even when the engine is running it my not be running to it's full potential and you my find you my have to alter carb settings all through the rev range.
All I'm trying to say is if anybody starts to have starting problems for no apparent reasons and the carb settings have always proved good and the resistance readings from the stator come within spec test the spark jump distance if you find the kick start has to be really hammered for the spark to jump this distance then the stator is on it's way out.
Sparks.
For what it's worth I finally got to ride my sparks rewound SEM equipped '03 FE400. I must say that starting is much improved as opposed to the last ride in November of '06. All things being equal for all intents and purposes, my seat-o-the-pants testing method came back with much improved performance. I pulled the front wheel off of the ground in 1st and 2nd whereas last November the thing didn't have enough ambition to get out of it's own way. Now, could there be other factors, maybe... The jetting has remained the same and temps being low 40's F in Michigan in November and two days ago so that shouldn't be a factor. I noticed improved starting over the "stock" version. In fact, I started the thing off of the button dead cold at ~45 F! It took a couple of tries, and after a backfire or two it fired up, go figure. I did fudge with the manual decomp while starting but still I don't think the bike has started cold off of the button in 1 1/2 years...
Initial product impressions combined with excellent customer service and support are and "A".
Initial product impressions combined with excellent customer service and support are and "A".
Hi Kzoo,
Nice to here there is good improvement. You mentioned that you have left the jetting the same, is the jetting stock or has it been altered over the years?. Keep an eye on the performance as the tempurature rises.
Regards
Sparks.
Nice to here there is good improvement. You mentioned that you have left the jetting the same, is the jetting stock or has it been altered over the years?. Keep an eye on the performance as the tempurature rises.
Regards
Sparks.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2007
- Messages
- 15
New rewound Stator
Sparks,
I apologize for jumping in here unannounced, I am new to the board and to Husaberg's as I just picked up a 2000 501 FC -2 days ago and you seem to be the resident expert concerning the ignitions and stators The bike starts on the first kick and seems to run fine with the switch in the Low position, but if I flip it to High it runs rough and backfires. I removed the stator case and cleaned the coils with a degreaser and a lot of rust was on the rag and the guided hash lines that shuldbe lined up were way off- a full compression turn, so I lined those back up, new oil, new spark, and turned down the air-fuel screw as it seemed to be running rich (the old plug was coated black but not that bad.) I'm in Colorado at elevation and there is a 180 Main jet, and a 40 pilot jet, I think. The igition module is not the original SEM, as it was in a box that came with the bike, but it looks like the same model but with an extra lead for a light. I really like my bikes to VERY reliable as I go on long desert trips occasionally, so my question is: What is my best course of action here and if I disconnect the HI/LO switch- what are the consequences? I am looking to have you rewind the stator to new, or send me one that is altready done that will fit, if you have one, and should I go ahead and upgrade the ignition module - Kokusan? even though the bike runs. Your thoughts, if you'd be so kind to indulge me. Thanks
Sparks,
I apologize for jumping in here unannounced, I am new to the board and to Husaberg's as I just picked up a 2000 501 FC -2 days ago and you seem to be the resident expert concerning the ignitions and stators The bike starts on the first kick and seems to run fine with the switch in the Low position, but if I flip it to High it runs rough and backfires. I removed the stator case and cleaned the coils with a degreaser and a lot of rust was on the rag and the guided hash lines that shuldbe lined up were way off- a full compression turn, so I lined those back up, new oil, new spark, and turned down the air-fuel screw as it seemed to be running rich (the old plug was coated black but not that bad.) I'm in Colorado at elevation and there is a 180 Main jet, and a 40 pilot jet, I think. The igition module is not the original SEM, as it was in a box that came with the bike, but it looks like the same model but with an extra lead for a light. I really like my bikes to VERY reliable as I go on long desert trips occasionally, so my question is: What is my best course of action here and if I disconnect the HI/LO switch- what are the consequences? I am looking to have you rewind the stator to new, or send me one that is altready done that will fit, if you have one, and should I go ahead and upgrade the ignition module - Kokusan? even though the bike runs. Your thoughts, if you'd be so kind to indulge me. Thanks
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2007
- Messages
- 15
D'town
I'm in downtown Denver, if your familiar with the area, west side of City park 3 blocks of York. I am going to take the bike down to Pueblo to that mini-track and the "landfill" trails and bookshelf cliffs way out behind the track. I usually ride there, Rampart more often than any other, Moab couple times a year, Grand Junction (Finally took Skinny Ridge on my old Husky 610 last year), and around my neighborhood much to the displeasure of my neighbors. Anyway, I'm always up for a ride if work/time permits and your welcome to come and ride/camp at Pueblo Lake this weekend. Imagine two Husa's at the same place at the same time, other people around may have a heart attack.
I'm in downtown Denver, if your familiar with the area, west side of City park 3 blocks of York. I am going to take the bike down to Pueblo to that mini-track and the "landfill" trails and bookshelf cliffs way out behind the track. I usually ride there, Rampart more often than any other, Moab couple times a year, Grand Junction (Finally took Skinny Ridge on my old Husky 610 last year), and around my neighborhood much to the displeasure of my neighbors. Anyway, I'm always up for a ride if work/time permits and your welcome to come and ride/camp at Pueblo Lake this weekend. Imagine two Husa's at the same place at the same time, other people around may have a heart attack.
RE: D
Hello from Estonia. I just want to say thanks to this site for a lot of information I have found here and also to sparks for his help. I can really recommend this guy when you have broken SEM ignition stator - very helpful and fast response to all my questions. I am still having some problems running my FE501 but I believe I can find good help from here and everything should be fine soon.
Hello from Estonia. I just want to say thanks to this site for a lot of information I have found here and also to sparks for his help. I can really recommend this guy when you have broken SEM ignition stator - very helpful and fast response to all my questions. I am still having some problems running my FE501 but I believe I can find good help from here and everything should be fine soon.
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2004
- Messages
- 336
- Location
- North England (Hull)
RE: D
Just in case anyone is in any doubt -
Steve (Sparks) is ya man.
He repaired mine in two days and it works fantastic. Better than the original.
And he knows his stuff IMO. Excellent ! Another electrical guru on board.
Regards
Ady
Just in case anyone is in any doubt -
Steve (Sparks) is ya man.
He repaired mine in two days and it works fantastic. Better than the original.
And he knows his stuff IMO. Excellent ! Another electrical guru on board.
Regards
Ady
JoeUSA said:
Joe,
Having just gone through an epic on my 95 FC 501, I have had three different stators and two CDI coils in the bike. The original stator, the KTM unit, and the rewound one from Sparks. The last change was to go to a new CDI Coil which finally did the trick and the bike starts reliably / easily now.
In all three stator cases, the Black Green trigger pulse was 0.8 to 1.0 VAC as measured on a Fluke 189 DVM. I was recording the peak voltage for half a dozen good kicks.
It sounds like the 1999-2003 stator had more turns on the Black Green coil than the 1995 stator...3.0 VAC for 1999-2003 and 0.8 VAC on all three of my 1995 stators.
Do you have trigger voltage specks on older stators??
Do the flywheel magnets get weak??
WAberg
sparks said:
Jetting is stock needle, needle clip and main. The pilot is few sizes larger. I was fighting multiple issues at the end of the year now have them sorted... The weather in MI changes 20 degF day by day during the spring so it makes no sense to try and lean it out on warmer days as it may be much colder the next ride... When the weather gets steady I'm going to put it back to stock and do as Taffy says and change ONE thing at a time starting with the main on down... To bad I couldn't jet my way outta a wet paper bag...
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2001
- Messages
- 1,355
- Location
- Pasadena Ca.
WAberg said:
No I do not have values for the 95. It sounds like you already have the data from what you posted above.
You might do a search here if you haven't already done so. I recall numbers being posted for some of the early models and being much lower than the 99-03 but did not write them down.
I read something about the CDI deteriorating, maybe thats why when replacing yours it solved your problem.
As far as I know, the magnets will not loose their charge.
Regards,
Joe
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,028
- Location
- Ely, England
good to see you're still about joe, but not so much of you lately? where have you been and what kept you away?
i also didn't realise that you wouldn't be doing moab. disappointed that i didn't catch up with you this time over...
regards
Taffy
i also didn't realise that you wouldn't be doing moab. disappointed that i didn't catch up with you this time over...
regards
Taffy
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