2nd battery

Hey guys.

I thought I'll give it a try, an came up with this.
Haven't tryed it yet, still puttin it toghether.
Got the extra relays an stuff, real cheap.

Thought perhaps some of you guys were more of an electrical enginerer than me. Any input of what you think of it would be appreciated.

Hope you can understand my draving.


/Erik

I dont understaind why to fit two batteries in a husaberg.its not a harley davinson.its a race bike i think.try to fit a hawker-cyclon battery.it has two more times cracing amps from yuasa ytz 7 s.you can see it in my gallery.work with that battery 2 temp gauges,2 cooling fans,1 engine hourmeter,1 alarm,and everything is all right.start up without choke in half push of button.

I seriously belive my bike needs all the crankingspeed it can get.
An its got an e-start so it should e-start, I also belive. :wink:

Takis, the 01-03s are harder to e-start and the 24v mod helps, it really does, as long as the sprague bites, that is. Still need to kick start it cold but then the second battery helps dramatically with the restart.

If you intend to race it, really, then the best is to remove the battery and the starter assembly altogether.

If you are a humble Sunday morning dirt rider like me, who already goes too fast for his own good (see avatar), then the second battery mod is not such a bad idea, although I have been able to restart in one kick most of the time. My issue is with finding neutral, not kick starting it.

So far the starter does not help at all, unless I stall while riding, in this case I can e-restart while in motion (unless I am going downhill in this case it's a hump start).

For the second battery, you don't really need a big Yuasa. You need 12 move volts with at least 4 more cranking amps and that's all the little extra push that you need.

i know very well older bergs start up.You can try the hawker cyclon battery for big cracking amps without more weight and bore beauty.i use my bike every day and never let me down.over 30 electric start up per day.i believe the secret is not in the battery.is in the right decompression set up.

Indeed. And in the carb. And in the ignition. Overall, the 2nd batterg mod is simpler to do that upgrading all of the above.

i think every bike must be perfect in all above.a 2nd battery does not fix the bike.all above you find them front to wait you.

Well, perfecting the ignition and the carburetion on an 01-03 would mean replacing the SEM with a Kokusan, which is something that Hribman did (see his gallery) and it means machining an adaptor plate to accomodate a later stator cover (or one from an LC4, in his case), and it's such a corny solution that nobody else did it (that I know of); and replacing the Dellorto with a Keihin, which is do-able.

Otherwise, in many cases, even with a very well tuned Dellorto, the best spark a SEM can give, a larger starter motor, updated sprague, the bike still can be very hard to restart on the button.

It's my case and so far the only workaround was the 2nd battery mod. Still would have to kick start it cold. I am at the crossroad where I have to decide between a second battery or removing the entire assembly.

With only one arm to work on the bike for about 3 more weeks, I have the time to think about it.

LE FROG I put 3 photos of cyclon battery fit in my berg to my gallery.i believe that is more simple solution ,with more power,and little weight,from second battery.also i believe 1 photo 1000 words.

Nowthen Eric
Welcome to the site.
Thanks for your drawing and thanks for posting it.

It appears your power connections to your relays are all wired in series, thus 4 coils at 12v would require 48 v to trigger them.
Also, the practical disadvantage is that the second starter relay would have to have contacts rated at approx 100amps. (Big, expensive bugger !!)
Also with 4 relays, even wired in parralell, the coils would need more amperage to drive them than the 10a available switching from the push button start switch. In reality you would weld it's contacts together as it's max breaking current will be approx 30 Ia in my opinion.

I am testing my new 24v system later today and will let you know how i get on.

Kind Regards
Ady

Battery tray under seat.
What you do is buy second battery leave it in cardboard box supplied with then you get some fibre glass matting cut it to the width of the box both ways allowing a three inch overlap at top of fibre glass over box.
Now get some ressin or p40 paint or spread it around the cardboard box then start to apply the fibre glass matting around it with 3" overhang left at top of the box with no ressin on it. If you do about 4 layers either way from side to side and front to back leave this to dry hard. Once the resign has dried take the battery out of the cardboard box wet the cardboard box inside the moulding you have just done so you can pour the old cardboard box out easily in bits. Now take the seat and rear fender unit off bike put tape or grease over bars to rear subframe. Now you get the box you have just fibre glassed put it in position under the seat with the 3 " overlap hang those over bars which is the rear subframe. Prop the box up underneath with something substancial when you got it in the right position. Now fibre glass ressin the 3" tails left at the top over the bars and let them go hard! When hard trim off fibre glass to make it neat and replace the new battery inside it and it should look something like this - pictures added [color=] [/color]

Hi Dusty
That sounds like a nice way of doing it !
I just used large cable ties and a couple of L shaped brackets, but yours sounds much neater.
I take it you are using 24v for starting. Are you charging your 2nd battery whilst riding, or like most of us - charging it when you get back home.

Oh & welcome to UHE
PS Love Evesham ... Ex Group 4 man

Hi All,

Will using a battery of higher AH say a 8.6AH or 9.0AH and 190CCA hurt the motorcyle. Lets say the battery housing or location makes for use of a larger battery.

I need to buy one soon so your advice would be of great help.

Thanks in advance!

Hi Husarocks
No - No detrimental effect at all.
Having a bigger ampere hour battery will maintain the effect of having your battery at 100% for longer periods of time.
So if your present battery stays fully charged for say 2 hours on average and then slowly gets depleted of energy, a larger ampere hour battery will hold the charge for longer. ie. Amps per Hour.
You must ensure that whatever battery you put in that a) it is rated with the same or more amperage ie. 7Amps or more, and b) that it has sufficient Ampere hours for your needs. This is what normally determines the size of the battery.
It would be very easy for Husaberg to fit a powerful 12v battery that would not even need charging whilst riding - but it would be 'HUGE', so they compromise with a medium amperage battery with high cranking power and a low ampere hour rating - thus relying on a good charging system.

So long as you can secure your battery and aren't bothered about the extra weight - theres no problem.
Note however. If your battery wasn't fading in the first place and your engine turns well all the time .... Your existing battery is fine and replacing it will not help.

Clear !
Regards
Ady

was looking to replace stock battery with something more substantial,and re position under seat?
but after reading all links ect takis has convinced me to try said cyclon battery!
does any one know of uk supplier?
has any one fitted one
or any feed back on fitting bigger= more cranking power battery
pleas do not direct me to any links as i have had a good read and my head is hurting :lol: :lol:

I found that adding a more substantial ground wire, and changing out the stock battery to the YTZ7S, and making sure the Fuel screw is set correctly made the bike start fine on my 2001 501.

It does not seem to me that the Cyclon battery is a motorcycle battery by design, even less a dirt bike battery.

Don't forget that Takis is a supermoto rider, for what I know.

The Yuasa is by design a motorcycle battery and it is fit for dirt riding as well.

I still have to hear from someone who rides with a Cyclon battery in enduro conditions: mud, dust, rivers, lots and lots of jumps and tremors.

Hi Guys,

I have heard that you can get the starter motor re-wound by an armeture winder for higher torque and rpm??? Does anybody know about this.

My starter motor does not even spin my motor, I think the prevuois owner had a high compression piston put in, plus I have broken off two kickstarter shafts, so I am very keen on finding a way to start my bike witht eh e-start.

The dual battery system sounds nice but seems to be alot of work.

Hello Goat, and welcome to the UHE.

Before we can help you you need to tell us what year and size your Berg is.

Regards,

Joe

Hey Joe,

Sorry I'm on a 2001 FE 650...