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2nd battery

Goat,

Try following this thread:

http://www.husaberg.org/modules.php?nam ... =0&thold=0

In summary, it talks about upgrading to the 04 and later 650 starter part number 820.40.001.000 and starter bracket part number 820.40.002.000 plus the later battery.

I would also recommend you replace the cam shaft mounted decompressor shaft counterweight with the one for the 04+ bikes, part number 590.36.016.000, and while in there you replace the pivoting timing chain tensioner with the 05 model for the 650 part number 820.36.002.000, bushing part number 800.36.002.050 and the kickstart shaft with the 03 version part number 800.33.050.000.

Even after doing this I would also use the manual handle bar decomp lever to help the engine turn over initially when using the E-start.

There are starters identical to the new Berg starter I recommended that are sold on other bikes that guys are picking up used real cheap. Do a search on starters on this web site and you should get a eyefull of good info.

Regards,

Joe
 
Hi,

I have been reading this forum for months, but this it is the first thread in which I write: I dont know enough english (sorry)

I would like to make some questions, mainly directed to which ALREADY has placed the second battery in his husaberg.

- Really, really, really starts better than with one battery?

- Can you show any photos of under seat battery box?, mainly how it is stingy to the chassis and how you made it.

- Where do you have placed the voltage regulator/rectifier?(mod. 2003). Is it enough ventilated?

- What thickness has the new cables? (diameter in milimeters)?

Best regards from Spain.
 
Hola Jon. Bienbenido.
Yo abla Espanol bali, perro escribar basura!
I wil try to help with easy english e un poco espanol para te.
3 Easy Options:
1. 24v ... Todo electricales normal. Acceptamento un cable de 10mm desde la solenoid +ve hasta la secundo batteria -ve. E otro cable desde la +ve hasta la motor. Si no possible para recharge la secundo batteria, perro es normal bien para trente vaces...Recharger quando tu eres en tu casa con tu Optimizer.
2. 24v ... Desde tu generator huy tres amarilo cables. Comprar otro rectifier/regulator e connector en parrallel. La nuevo rectifier/regulator recharger la secundo batteria. E la cables para la motor egual de antes.
3. 12v ... Es importante tu secundo batteria es exactamento egual.Tu 10mm cables connect directamento desde la primera batteria. ( Es mejor con un nuevo rectifier/regulator que es mas potentia, perro no essential )
..............................
PS. La secundo batteria es cable tied, just under the seat on the mudguard.
Buenos suete me amigo.
Regarde
Ady
 
Hey can I ask my question in French, Ady? After aren't you learning the language right now?

Seriously what prevents one from connecting the extra battery between the solenoid and the motor, knowing that when the circuit is closed, then the 2 batteries are then put in series?

The extra battery is not juiced up by the stator, of course, but the SEM of the older berg does not even rejuice one battery.

One would have to put the two batteries on an Optimate (each or one after the other) after the ride.

I also thought that the extra battery could be put in the fender bag, the cables routed along the rear frame. Would add some weight to the back, but no big deal.
 
Thank you very much, Ady and LeFroq

I am going to try the option number one from Ady: Cables of 10 mm following the scheme that has been published in this thread. I have the Optimate and I am going to use it before ride. No problems: two equal battery, correct welded cables. later, I will conect the switch to convert parallel-serial battery (somebody drew the scheme)

But I don`t have still resolved how to make the second battery underseat box. Should it be placed completely vertical? Neither I know where to place the rectifier (same rectifier). When I have it made, I will put some pictures. Any guy have photos of this?

More o less, I can read and write something in English, but I am the slowest in the world. I spend more than 15 minutes to write these lines (with the little help from Google -or no-). And there are technical words that are difficult to translate and they don't appear in the conventional dictionaries. Never mind, This can be a good moment to learn


Redards.
 
Under the seat the battery has to be vertical, yes, if you put it in a T-Shirt or a rag to hold it in place while experimenting different positions, you'll see there are not a lot of options, which is why I am thinking about the fender bag option myself, if I am to do that.

Indeed the bike restarts a lot more easily with the 24v but it does not start the bike cold (2001), that is not going to happen unless the bike is not really cold.
 
Jon & Le Frog... gentlemen.
Agreed. Simply sticking a second battery, wired in series from your solenoid gives you 24v and works a treat. Good fro approx 30 starts.
PS. Don't press your button for too long - you will burn the motor out.
PPS. My 2nd battery sits at an angle of 30 degrees, on my mudguard and works fine.
Regards
Ady
 
In the latest Dirt Rider they have a photo showing the 2-battery setup of the 2007 450 SXF.

There are two batteries mounted under the seat, apparently Yuasas branded as "Superlite" (the PNs looked like Yuasa's).

The secondary battery is smaller. I guess because you do not need to crank that much to start the bike, but there are definitely two batteries.

Now the secondary battery may only be there to support specific DC items like blinkers, horn and what not.

No words about what the 2-battery setup really is like, if there is a parallel to series switch or what.
 
2 batts

I went thru ALL this ages ago????
The batts are in series to start only. My bike started hot or cold and you charge the second battery after a ride as that eliminates a huge switch.
 

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