ok I'm getting PISSED

i can understand your frustration, believe me :x

i did my valves recently, slight drag on the feeler gauge at 0.004 it runs fine
dont give up

OK Bob....take a deep breath.....hold it......now gently exhale......good, now repeat. Feeling better??? Good!!
I think for your own sanity, you should recheck your valve adjustment. I would suggest removing the radiator (even though it is not necessary) so that you have plenty of room to work as well as see what you are doing. try the 1/8 th turn method, but recheck it with the feeler guage .004-.005 is good, anything else is not acceptable. Do not compromise and dont quit untill you get it right. It might take and hour and a half but it will be time well spent.
I used to adjust my valves at intervals (every 10 hours), now I do it as needed. Now that the motor is broken in, you may not have to adjust them for awhile. If it aint broke dont fix it.

BB,

Sounds to me like there is a chunk of pencil in the combustion chamber :lol:

It ran good before the last valve adjustment right?? As far as I know, your jetting is not going to affect your idle the way you are describing. I say it still sounds related to the valve adjustment. If you cannot get it to idle properly with the mixture screw, you know what you have to do.
Just my 2 cents...it's not like I'm an engineer or anything :wink:

ok , thats more like it , do the valves take your time [ critical ]
take plug readings , dont guess

sorry big bob

but i like what you said a few pages back.

why screw with a perfectly running bike?

spent time & money & didnt get a free lunch?

go figure!

did you say the guys that built that awesome machine are idiots?

some tuning may be necessary, but not reinventing the wheel bro.

good luck!

Get an off-set feeler gauge, .004" on one end .005" on the other as per the picture provided by Joe usa in the other thread.

Follow directions in other thread on how to adjust valves WITH feeler gauge, set valves @ .005" and you're good to go. Now that you've had someone show you how it's done, it should be easier. You can't do it by feel, you have to check it with a feeler gauge, that's why they make them.

Do this before you go any further. Because right now you don't know what you've got, you're guessing, and bouncing all over the place, and you're going to drive yourself nuts!!!

I am surprised that Dan's mech would tell you that .002" is good, that's too tight Bob.

The only time Husaberg valves get loose is when the cam followers wear out or the bike is new and it's the first adjustment. Otherwise they will get tight as the valve wears into the seat.

BB,

One other thought is to go back to your original jetting and see what happens. I know the carb was set up by DL but if the bike ran good with the "as delivered" jetting go back to them and see what happens. This may solve the question as to wether this is a "carb" issue or a "valve" issue. Just wanted to through this in as a suggestion to maybe help relieve some frustrations. Don't get discouraged, we'll get this sorted. This dosn't sound like a valve problem to me, this is a fuel delivery issue.

Regards,

3,200 posts and i've never seen the red mist till this ph..... thread!

first of all if the guy at the shop-ossaman-has done it it'll be a good job and you'll have the 1/8th turn method and the bike will be set correctly so leave him alone.

secondly DL took it that the rest of your bike was in spec when he set the carb so don't even think of whinging over there either.

thirdly, if you're not prepared to see the job through without whinging like a kid then you shouldn't have touched it. now you have? get on with it without complaint! - especially a man of your age!

it doesn't help that we continually get cocky and arrogant anal messages from the NW.

so BB calm down and stop acting like a big kid.

this is your problem: you've gotta know what your doing or learn to do it. if you don't you're at other peoples mercy. this site can help but as my old saying goes "40 non-cooks in the kitchen can still only make baked beans on toast". no knowledge is no knowledge. even 40 times it is still NO KNOWLEDGE!!!!!

so: what you're gonna do is start thinking it through-calmly!!!!!

your tappets will be good but it looks like they were well out of spec and it has radically altered your tickover so we need to sort it. the carb is the problem and not the tappets.

and don't move the needle, the needle has nothing to do with idle and moving off whatsoever. why did you just run the bike round the block and not test it thoroughly? the problem is your pilot circuit and that means the PS underneath the carb and the idle screw.

just imagine if you had done all the following BB?
new carb with no previous settings to go by
two types of cam
different headers
two different tailpipes
different sized carb
3 top end rebuilds
change of radiator
new needles and MJs = 100+ tests
larger exhaust valves
ported inlets
altered ignition timing

and do you know what? after every single change, i didn't make another until the bike is running right from the first one. that meant sitting there with dale's cam next to me for 3-4 months and the same with his needle. i have 450LS kit that has been stood here for 4-months and it might be another 4 before it's fitted!

it starts 2-3 kicks and idles perfectly and runs like sh.. off a shovel.

so this is what i suggest you do. you buy a kouba pilot screw adjuster or make one similar to the one in my gallery and then you go for a ride and you get it really warm. 10 minutes should do. AND NO DON'T DO IT IN YOUR YARD! then you adjust that PS underneath the carb until she gives the best snap wheelie you can get. .5 turn in either direction. try it.

your bike will be fine. you should have a kouba already and if you haven't-why not?

stay calm, don't rant and remember that the dealer, the mechanic, the man who sold you the needle and dealers in general will see this and take this site for a bunch of jerks-whinging jerks and i disassociate myself from that. we haven't come this far just to be called a bunch a whinging girls.

i'd rather fall out than the site be known for being full of clueless people who can't do the most basic things to their bikes without complaining.

there are a lot of people who work very hard here and have a great deal of knowledge. WE set a high standard and expect it in return from others.

Taffy

I don't know... I hate to post because to be frank, I have a had few adult beverages, getting my bike ready for a ride tomorrow, loading up, etc...

I'll say this Bob, after riding my Berg, and helping two friends with their own for years now (I guess), never has a valve lash adjustments yielded such results!

Take it easy big guy! My money is on Dale seeing you through all this. After all, He has done more research and given his results more freely than anyone associated with Husaberg in any professional capacity that I know of (Taffy is of course is the man otherwise!).


Hope this helps.
John.

This is bringing back memories of ThumperTalk

jeezzzzuzzzz

If you found filter oil in the intake you may consider checking the pilot air jet. If you get that thing plugged with filter oil your bike may start but idle poorly because the idle mixture will be rich.

Another thing, if you've had the carb apart lately the slide may have been put in upside down, this will cause similar issues.

The needle will kick in right around 1/4 throttle so if your bike runs well after idle then I believe the rest of your carb settings are not an issue.