tubliss?

Motocross Action Mag had a good write up on it.

They are nice can change air pressure and run very low pressure. The very inside tube is high pressure. You can still get puncher I hit some garbage in the trail sliced my tire ...... never came off the rim on the why home. I could run tube in the tire of buy a new to use Tubliss.

Tu-Bliss is providing a set of their tu-bliss systems for the raffle, on front and one rear for FR 3, so maybe the lucky winner will do a write up for us here on the site!!!!!!!

I finally got around to fitting mine to the 650. I always have a problem spinning front tyres, but not rears. Dunno why, but maybe I'm hard on the brakes? My main interest was the bead locking.

They fit easy after drilling the bigger hole for the rim lock substitute. I put some Slime in as recommended and set the pressure to my usual 12-13. I found the front washed out a little easier, so bumped it to 14 psi. The Ultra HD tubes I normally run presumably added somewhat to sidewall stiffness. I also found evidence of Slime escaping at the lower pressure, and the pressure dropped off during a ride as a result, down to about 10. Set at 14 and handling is better, and no leaks. The ride compliance and feel is like at 11-12 with the big tube. No rim dings and if the tyre has spun I haven't noticed, so my objective achieved.

I also may have had some leaks due to not being able to get more than 100 psi out of my compressor for the bead lock tube. OTTOMH 110 is recommended. Might have to investigate a HP bicycle pump, but so far I'm happy.

Not sure if I'll get one for the back yet, we shall see. I'm a pensioner now, so have to watch my pennies.

Cheers
Steve

fwiw steve the little 12v 4wd compressors should do it

i use them to charge shocks, 190psi is possible.

just another one, on those little sheit box 4b pumps...i was using one that i got from autobarn & i hooked up my good compression tester gauge into the compression line of the 4b pump.
when the 4b pump said 125psi the compression tester gauge said just under 100 psi.
the packaging on the 4b pump said it was capable of pumping 300psi...what a load of b.s...don't be fooled like i was.
fwiw..yep i have to agree with steve on the tubliss,the tubes in the normal set up do hold the sidewalls up more.
probably have to run about another 4psi in for the same sidewall sag.
where the traction is greater,it will not be any advantage,cause the sidewalls will just fold under if you run lower pressures.
maybe on slippery surfaces where there isn't as much side pressures trying to fold the sidewalls under, you could run the same pressures as you do now with a tube(which will have a bigger footprint with the tubliss),for more traction & still not have to worry about pinching a tube...make sense?
..weed..

I have thus far had excellent success with the Nuetech Tubliss system, both front and rear, through three tire changes. The main advantage for me has been the ability to run much lower tire air pressures without the constant fear of rim pinches. With tubed tires I found that I would have to run up to 20/15 psi, front and rear, to avoid rim pinching in higher speed rocky areas. I did suffer a puncture flat during my two week trip to Stanley, ID this past summer. A two minute trail-side repair with a 'plug' provided a permanent fix.

I got one of the cheap compressors from Aldi recently like Bushie suggested and it goes to 150 psi or more and now I can get the 110 psi in the Tubliss tube and its all good, no more leak evidence, ie no Slime escaped and air pressure held. I've settled on 13 psi as being equivalent to 11 psi with the 4 mm tube. Note that even at 11 psi I had no problems with pinch flats or dinged rims over the rocky terrain I mostly ride. I attribute this to my suspension setup (and 4 mm tubes). When the bike was new, and prior to springing and valving, I dinged a rim on my first ride with 14 psi.

In theory, with the less unsprung weight of the Tubliss system, suspension response should also be improved, and if you are really sensitive, you could add a click of compression and/or rebound to compensate for faster wheel speed. Personally I haven't noticed, but I am still learning to ride again after my knee reconstruction last year!

Steve

tubliss

Hey Steve,
Did you get yours from Ballards or some other place?
Todd

Ballards

Steve

so now that some here have presumably been using them for a while how are they holding up?

as above, and so far so good.

I like the concept, and the theoretical advantages are real if you are good/fast enough.

Steve

steve said:

as above, and so far so good.

I like the concept, and the theoretical advantages are real if you are good/fast enough.

Steve

Click to expand...

The 'theoretical' advantages are real for all riders, including those who are 'good/fast enough'.

Chas said:

steve said:

as above, and so far so good.

I like the concept, and the theoretical advantages are real if you are good/fast enough.

Steve

Click to expand...

The 'theoretical' advantages are real for all riders, including those who are 'good/fast enough'.

Click to expand...

Yep, but my point is that I know riders who are quite happy putting along running standard thin tubes and 16-18 psi. I don't see any point in those riders spending up on Tubeliss as they won't benefit from it. If you have problems with dinged rims running your preferred pressures for grip, then the first thing to do is get the compression damping sorted. Anything else is a bandaid, not a cure. The more agressive you are on a bike, the more you will benefit from the Tubeliss, and other things like a steering damper too.

Steve

They work great for trail riding but they do not replace a bib mousse for harescrambles. In the northeast guys have tried the tubliss set up for harescrambles and they dont work as well as the bib. For most riders they are fine and work great, but the AA riders can destroy them in one race. Still a great idea and a great product though.

I've had my bike setup with a Tubliss and an Pirelli MT43 (DOT trials) on the rear wheel for about a month now.

I have not noticed that much difference (if any) - significant difference with regards to the tire, but the Tubliss system itself seems about the same as before. Possibly I don't notice the difference because I am running a totally different tire?

The tire works well. Much more flexible than any knobby. Overall it works better for trail riding, and it is smoother than the knobby on pavement. It also seems to be wearing better. I don't think I gave anything up by going to a trials tire. I run 8 to 10 PSI and I ride slow single track mostly. About the only thing I think it would give up is cornering under speed/acceleration because there are no side knobs. I don't ride like that so no problem for me.

yeah, just a bit of an update on the tubliss system.
adding on to the diy tubliss thread.
as far as leaks go,i have not had a leak from sidewalls to rim with new tyres(and i don't use slime to help it seal),but putting old tyres on which has had lever damage where it seals agaist the rim."yes" i have had leaks.
simple really,i just put a light smear of sikaflex around where it seals against the rim.give it a day or 2 to dry before putting the tyre of course.but problem is fixed.
the main problem i have had from the tubliss system is just a slow leak from where the valve of the inner tube seals via a o-ring against the cloth tape (that goes over top of the spokes).
the inner tube doesn't leak pressure.the tyre pressure slowly drops,sometimes worse than others.even though there is a o-ring that is suppose to seal that.
if it takes a week or 2 to go flat ,well thats no biggy by me,but if its a bad leak around there i probably try covering that o-ring in some sort of slicone,pump the inner tube up to pressure then let it set overnight before pumping the tyre up.
now people,anyone can destroy anything,if "one" has no common sense.
now what i read on ktm talk was 1 bloke destroyed his tubliss cause his rim was too wide.it only makes sense that it will never seal.it will not spread anymore than it is designed to spread.
if "fast riders" are so fast that they can punture the red outer of the tubliss,then why are they running them so flat for?
running 4-5psi in a "tubliss" in rocky country,i am sure i could destroy one too.
i recon you would have to have about 60mm tyre tread flex to punture the tubliss red outer.
a little bit of common sense really does go a long way.
..weed..

popup said:

the main problem i have had from the tubliss system is just a slow leak from where the valve of the inner tube seals via a o-ring against the cloth tape (that goes over top of the spokes).
the inner tube doesn't leak pressure.the tyre pressure slowly drops,sometimes worse than others.even though there is a o-ring that is suppose to seal that.

Click to expand...

The o-ring is only there to keep crap from getting in, not to stop air from getting out. The seal that keeps the pressure in the tyre itself is between the outside of the red cover on the bladder and the inside of the tyre walls - if that seal is intact there won't be any pressure from the tyre getting beyond it to leak out around the valve stem. In fact if there was, it would also come out around the spokes as they aren't sealed (TUbliss point out that their rim tape isn't meant as a seal for the spokes because it isn't necessary).

You do get some air trapped in that area around the bladder when you first install it because there are gaps around the bladder before you pump it up fully which naturally contain air, so you can get that air leaking slowly out around the valve stem for as much as 48 hours. If everything's working properly it's only that trapped air which leaks out and that doesn't reduce the tyre pressure - if it keeps leaking in the long term it means you don't have a good seal between the tyre and the red bladder cover and that's letting air get past the joint to work its way around the bladder and out wherever it can, which could be around spokes and/or the valve stem.

TUbliss are aware of the sort of problems you had with used tyres and recommend that you only install their system with new tyres because on used tyres any damage to the tyre bead from levers or from the old rim lock will often result in a leak. Luckily you worked out a way around that problem so you're one step ahead of them!

Javier of trailtricks is one of the guys whos had some problems

I think its just in the extreme case where you happen to dent the rim so bad all the air comes out.

if you're racing to win I guess you don't give a stuff about rims and can deal with stuffing a set of wheels tyres and perhaps an engine every race then it might be safer results wise to use a mousse tube...

for everyone else who just wants an alternative to UHD tubes I think Tubliss is a great idea, if Weed can't break em I doubt I could :twisted: