tubliss?

yeah, i get what you are on about pete,and i take your point,but that is what suppose to happen in theory.
dunno, it doesn't seal that good in mine.i replaced that original yellow tape around the spokes with a double layer of similar cloth tape.i assembled the tubliss & tyre inflated both then tested it for leaks in the bath tub.
well ....it was like a spa bath :shock: ,bubbles coming out of the spokes everywhere.
back to the shed ,ripped it off again & the 100-110 psi in the tubliss was too much for the 2 layers of cloth tape,it puntured small holes where spoke nipples protrude.
i then put 6 layers of cloth tape over the rim/nipples ,assembled again & pump it up & no more leaks from the spokes,just that slight leak beside the valve stem,which is no biggy.
so..if it leaks between tubliss to the inner wall of the tyre, what are you suppose to do? i still think the tape & that o-ring saves the day.
well... it did for mine anyway.
kettle calling the pot black i think bushy
probably the sales pitch for the tubliss is a bit misleading,saying that you can run lower pressures with no pinch flats,maybe so if you are a casual rider,but then you are going to get some young prick with 1/2 a brain hitting rock ledges at break neck speed with 8psi in the tyre. :roll:
remember you got to allow for the ********* :|
..weed..

How long do they last, IE how many tires/hours/Kms/whatever before your due for another $160+ Tubliss High Pressure Core?

NickGleeson said:

How long do they last, IE how many tires/hours/Kms/whatever before your due for another $160+ Tubliss High Pressure Core?

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You don't need to buy another complete TUbliss if the bladder (as they call the high pressure tube) does get damaged or wear out. You can buy replacement bladders and in the UK they are only a few pounds. Can't remember exactly but ISTR something like £10 to £15, so a comparable cost to an HD tube but the bladder should last much longer. It's unlikely to get damaged by riding the bike because it's so far inside the tyre that even a nail going through the tyre won't touch it unless you're very unlucky, and it can't get pinched like a normal inner tube could, not even if you ride with the main tyre completely flat. People who've been using them for a while say bladders normally last at least for several tyre changes, and even then they often only change it as a precaution (which may make sense given that they're not expensive - I periodically replace normal inner tubes while changing tyres to reduce the chance of flats).

I've not heard of any problems with the other parts of the TUbliss. I suppose you could possibly break the rim lock or the valve stem somehow or damage the red bladder cover and I don't know whether you can buy those separately, but Jeff at Nuetech generally responds well to emails so you could ask him if you're worried about it.

i overtightened the nurled nut & screwed the valve stem completely out the inner tube.be carful,it doesn't take much.
a 24" pushy tube fits in the front one smicko ,& only $10.
comes with a french valve though.just get an adapter to convert over.
i would imagine, it wouldn't be hard to get a pushy tube to fit the back one as well,just take it down there & get them to match it up for size.
..weed..

popup said:

i overtightened the nurled nut & screwed the valve stem completely out the inner tube.be carful,it doesn't take much.

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You're not actually supposed to tighten that knurled nut against the rim at all! When the bladder is first installed on the rim you screw the nut only a little way down the valve stem and it sits there loose until you've finished the installation, just to make sure the valve stem can't pull back through the rim while you're working on it. After you've finished the installation and fitted the valve cap, the nut should be screwed away from the rim until it seats against the underside of the valve cap. The instructions say it should never be tightened down onto the rim - I'm wondering now if maybe they say that because you might pull the valve out of the tube! :mrgreen:

I'm not too surprised about pushy tubes fitting as I thought the original bladders might basically be pushy tubes anyway - that's a handy tip to know they'll work.

Petem,

Thanks for that bit of info mate, I couldn't see online anywhere to get the replacement bladders so figured it was a new kit if something went bad. Guess its time to pull out the credit card and get me a couple of these...

Cheers,

Nick

As a side note from the post above; you guys are putting 110PSI into a pushy tube, or am I missing something here? Seems insane if I'm on the money!

NickGleeson said:

Thanks for that bit of info mate, I couldn't see online anywhere to get the replacement bladders so figured it was a new kit if something went bad. Guess its time to pull out the credit card and get me a couple of these...

As a side note from the post above; you guys are putting 110PSI into a pushy tube, or am I missing something here? Seems insane if I'm on the money!

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No problem Nick. I couldn't find out who to buy spare bladders from in the UK as nobody seems to advertise them, so I emailed Jeff Douglas at Nuetech who make the TUbliss and had a reply the same day with the name of the UK supplier (email jeff at nuetech.com).

Yup, 110 PSI it is! A friend who's a keen cyclist told me that he uses over 100 PSI on his bicycle- must be like riding on wooden tyres. A lot of good bicycle pumps will get to 110 PSI, but most motorbike pumps don't seem to. Doesn't actually take many pushes on the pump to fill it as it's a small volume, but you need to be careful taking the connection off or when you use a separate gauge to check the pressure as you can easily lose enough air to make a difference (it's coming out at high pressure from a small volume). My original pressure gauge would make it lose as much as 5 PSI each time I checked the pressure but I found another one which hardly loses anything. Jeff told me that most tyres will still seal ok with the bladder down to 85 PSI or sometimes even less if the tyre was in good condition before it was fitted, so the exact pressure's not absolutely critical but keeping it up close to 110 PSI reduces the chance of a leak so it's worth doing that.

petem said:

Yup, 110 PSI it is! A friend who's a keen cyclist told me that he uses over 100 PSI on his bicycle- must be like riding on wooden tyres. A lot of good bicycle pumps will get to 110 PSI, but most motorbike pumps don't seem to. Doesn't actually take many pushes on the pump to fill it as it's a small volume, but you need to be careful taking the connection off or when you use a separate gauge to check the pressure as you can easily lose enough air to make a difference (it's coming out at high pressure from a small volume). My original pressure gauge would make it lose as much as 5 PSI each time I checked the pressure but I found another one which hardly loses anything. Jeff told me that most tyres will still seal ok with the bladder down to 85 PSI or sometimes even less if the tyre was in good condition before it was fitted, so the exact pressure's not absolutely critical but keeping it up close to 110 PSI reduces the chance of a leak so it's worth doing that.

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I have ridden my Tubliss with down to 80 PSI, but not on purpose. I usually check it before each ride. As you mentioned, it is important to have a gauge that loses as little pressure as possible when checking the pressure. It is also necessary to have a high pressure gauge as most car and motorcycle gauges don't go over 60 PSI. A bicycle gauge works well. I have three - one low pressure for 0 to 20 PSI for the trails, one 0 to 60 PSI standard gauge and a high pressure gauge that goes up to 120 PSI for the Tubliss tube.

Rolling resistance is everything to street bicyclists who ride high performance street bicycles (I used to) - makes a big difference in the power needed to propel the bike and keep it going.

CodeMonkey said:

Rolling resistance is everything to street bicyclists who ride high performance street bicycles (I used to) - makes a big difference in the power needed to propel the bike and keep it going.

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He did say that's why they're pumped up so much as he likes to go quickly. Can't be the most comfortable ride, but I guess he doesn't care!

On Bushies suggestion I got a 12v compressor from Aldi l time they were on sale. About $30-$40. 150 psi with a gauge. I swapped the 12v plug for some aligator clips and fitted an angled adaptor to the hose and it works a treat. I pump it to an indicated 130 and lose about 20 when removing the hose.

Steve

Popup, many years ago when I started building some wheels for my dirt bikes I was told that you have to grind off the spokes when they tighten up through the nipples because they are too long. Those days you used a hand drill and a round headed grinding stone. Now you can use a high speed cutting wheel and clip them right off. That will prevent you from having to double or triple tape the protruding spokes.
Just a tip from the old days.

Swiss

I keep re reading this thread and for my 2 cent contribution this is what I am going to attempt next time I have to have my tyre off.

After much research on this topic in other forums I will combine a few methods for a home made set up.
1st I will completely clean the inside of my rim
2nd a very small dob of grease on the spoke nipple inside the rim
3rd a bit bigger dob of silicone completely covering that grease blob
4th either smear the complete lower inside area with a smoothe coat of silicone or use a piece of bicycle tube cut in half to form a 2" wife flat strip an then use contact adhesive and stick the whole thing over the lower nipple area and then perhaps sealing the edges with a smear of silicone
5th insert a tubless valve and thats it !! should work ? I hope ????

Run my Pirelli mt43 at about 6 psi and all should be good

It'll be interesting to see whether you can make it work. Of course there's also the possibility of leaks around the tyre beads as well as through the spokes, so you'll need to be careful not to damage the beads at all while fitting the tyre, and make sure the rim is smooth where the bead sits on it. I guess it's no different to a normal tubeless rim and tyre which has to seal at that point anyway, I just wonder if there's any difference in the inside of the rim when it's not designed to be tubeless compared with a rim that is? I have no idea whether there is any difference, just wondering. I guess you'll be fitting the tubeless version of the MT43 so at least you know the tyre's designed for it?

Running at 6psi are you going to fit a rim lock? If so, how will you make sure the hole around the bolt doesn't leak?

I guess as you're going to run low pressures there will be less tendency for the tyre to leak and a slow leak might not bother you anyway so long as it stays up long enough to ride for a day. Could be a cheaper solution than TUbliss if you can make it work, and tyre changing would be easier in future with no tube/mousse/TUbliss bladder to worry about! Let us know how you get on.

the spokes are easy, don't need rimlocks just use screws

problem is the bead

first you need to be able to get the bead to come out then you need to get it to stay there while riding over rocks and bumps and all kinds of stuff

you can get rims with a raised ridge to help like the roadbikes or if you use 15psi + its fine without.

on our normal rims under 15 psi even with 10 screws a side the bead needs to be phsysically glued to the rim. cyanoacrilate or methylmethacrylate is about the best there is for rubber to ally.

bushmechanic said:

first you need to be able to get the bead to come out then you need to get it to stay there while riding over rocks and bumps and all kinds of stuff

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Wouldnt it stay there if i managed to get it to pop out in the first place ? With my mt43 i am only running about 6psi which is not a lot of air to hold it there, but it does. With the method i mentioned whats the diff in it not holding there, i will still have the same amount of air, just no tube ????

well everything is worth trying, the difference with a tube is the bead can move around and the air doesn't leak out.

without a tube 1 tiny leak when you ride over a rock can reduce the pressure by 1/2 a psi or so then enough rocks and you're down to 4 or whatever the minimum is then it just pops off.

eyspy said:

bushmechanic said:

first you need to be able to get the bead to come out then you need to get it to stay there while riding over rocks and bumps and all kinds of stuff

Click to expand...

Wouldnt it stay there if i managed to get it to pop out in the first place ? With my mt43 i am only running about 6psi which is not a lot of air to hold it there, but it does. With the method i mentioned whats the diff in it not holding there, i will still have the same amount of air, just no tube ????

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An advantage of the Tubliss system in this situation is that the high pressure Tubliss carcass will hold the tire beads against the wheel rims regardless of the air pressure in the tire, i.e. the air pressure can be run very low without fear of the tire becoming unseated from the wheel.

only an advantage eh? sounds like the entire tubliss concept

the only thing i don't like about it is they talk up how light it is without giving any specific data then we find out its heavier than a standard tube. not very honest

as a weed proof tuff product and an idea in general I like it.

bushmechanic said:

only an advantage eh? sounds like the entire tubliss concept

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The fact that the tyre is very unlikely to come off the rim and can still be ridden even if completely flat is one advantage but not the only one. You're also less likely to get a flat when running low pressures as you can't pinch the inner tube. And if you do get a flat from something puncturing the tyre, you're much more likely to be able to seal it successfully with something like Tyre Slime or a tubeless tyre repair plug as it is effectively a tubeless tyre (so a trail-side repair is quicker and easier than replacing the tube as you don't even need to take the wheel out). And...

bushmechanic said:

the only thing i don't like about it is they talk up how light it is without giving any specific data then we find out its heavier than a standard tube. not very honest

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I was running a heavy duty inner tube in the rear wheel on my old Husky. Replacing that and the old rim lock with a TUbliss and it's built-in rim lock reduced the weight of the wheel by 902g. Losing nearly 1kg of rotating mass (and unsprung weight) made a noticeable difference.

If you're running a standard inner tube and/or no rim lock (or a very light one) obviously you wouldn't save as much weight and for all I know maybe nothing at all or even be heavier. I don't know anyone among the people I ride with who's *not* using HD tubes and a rim lock so they could all save weight, but that might not be true for everyone. If you're sure it would be heavier for you and its other advantages aren't enough of a benefit to you personally to make up for that, then I wouldn't suggest fitting them.

this is all getting too hard......so far it's not a problem running very low psi in my MT43, if it does then I mights just stuff the whole thing with straw :tongue: :bounce3: :bounce3: :bounce3: