Tons of metallic flakes in oil: culprit?

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Not sure if this is any help, but after rebuilding my husaberg first oil change I had metallic particals on the oil pick up screen. I was very worried but when I removed the clutch cover and then the kick start shaft you could see the gear was rubbing on the new countersunk screws holding the sledge on. Since it took the high spots of it seems ok. Not sure if this is common but all the second hand cases on eBay look like mine.
 
Tool re-tapped and fitted with a beefy M16 bolt. Aint no M16 'gon break on me now!

jmscrttndn said:
Man, I tried to take the flywheel off today... broke a M8 bolt on the extractor tool. Guess I need to re-tap the tool for an M12. That f***ing flywheel is really stuck on there. Even heating it up didn't help.

Oh well, I'll get it in a few days.
Click to expand...
 
PEI Mudder said:
It looks the the invisible type :p
Click to expand...

Homemade!

eBxIV4O.jpg


Gqb4n8Q.jpg
 
Installed this bad boy today. Only trick was having to hit the 27mm aluminum nut on the tripe clamp with a hammer to flatten out the upper dome. Other than that, plug and play.

Unfortunately, the under bar mount raises the bars about 1 1/4" higher than stock, so it may be too high now. I will have to wait and see.

I also installed my secret (anti-ignition) switch... it is ghetto and the wires are a mess behind the headlight. I also suck at soldering, so that doesn't help the situation.

kkzv1qS.jpg
 
jmscrttndn said:
I also installed my secret (anti-ignition) switch... it is ghetto and the wires are a mess behind the headlight. I also suck at soldering, so that doesn't help the situation.
Click to expand...

sweet

p.s., soldering is less of a craft skill and more of tick-the-right-boxes process ... Have liquid flux on hand! It's really the secret sauce. It helps "pull" the solder along onto where it should be, and allows to re-melt and re-crystallize cold joints.

here's a great video that shows the principles:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY
... albeit in a tutorial for surface-mount soldering, but no matter, the principles are the same. Just a bit easier when it's bigger :)

Also recommend a decent temperature-controlled iron!, TOTALLY worth it! a good 50W digitally-controlled Hakko clone can be obtained for ... idk, less than $100? heats up super fast and is ROCK stable and accurate. this is a REALLY REALLY GOOD station for not much money: Hakko (compatible-affordable) Digital controlled soldering station | Let's Make Robots!

also make sure the solder you're using isn't something that's hard to use, i.e. silver solder or low-lead or lead-free, those are more difficult to work with afaik ... (not sure what they use on the bikes? leaded or lead-free? might have to be the same type? idk)

do try a decent iron and liquid flux! soldering isn't really anything that you can suck at, it's just a question of some simple rules of thumb which aren't widely known as they could and should be

(hope I'm not coming across as patronizing here .! if so please blame it on english-as-second-language, thanks :) )
 
Thanks Tourist, great advice. I will take it and learn. The iron that I have is a cheap one... so maybe I can blame it!

Also, forgot to mention the flywheel puller. With the new, beefier bolt, it worked great. What I did was snug up the bolt nice and tight so that the flywheel was under pressure. Then I hit the head of the bolt with a hammer (lightly). The impact was enough to loosen everything and off came the flywheel.

If I had used this approach the first time, I probably wouldn't have broken the M8 bolt... but live and learn.

Now everything is apart and I just have the remove the crank bearing inner races (advice?) as well as the balancer shaft+bearings (without wrecking the balancer shaft bearings, also advice?).

The conrod big end appears to be gone, so replacing that. Long wait time for the new repair kit, but oh well. I measured 0.1 mm radial play in big end... manual says 0.05 mm radial play max.
 
I used a couple of screwdrivers behind the balancer to pry it off gently.
I'm not bothering with a damper . I find the bike is so stable, unless you plan on baja or desert racing, I'm not sure it is necessary.
 
Kayeffess said:
I used a couple of screwdrivers behind the balancer to pry it off gently.
I'm not bothering with a damper . I find the bike is so stable, unless you plan on baja or desert racing, I'm not sure it is necessary.
Click to expand...

This one was curtesy of of Saskatchewan friend parting out the '08 650 Snowbike. It was a great deal and everything he sent works well so far, so tough to pass up. I did however spend the money on this rather than a second set of wheels... but oh well.
 
jmscrttndn said:
Holy crap. Epiphany time. All the flakes in the tranny could have come from the kickstarter catastrophe since it feeds right into the transmission cavity. Well Hopefully this is the only problem and I can confirm when I inspect the transmission.

Nevertheless, the case is split so the least I can do is replace some bearings. Also, as per previously mentioned in the youtube video, there is a clunk in the bottom end when turning by hand so I will inspect the conrod for issues.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it's working out for you! It's nice to see someone learn from my mistakes!

Another little trick I just learned, next time your're in the left side, use a little dremmel with a light bur bit and knock down the edges a slightly on both sides of the mating surface. I can now use the same left side gasket about 2-3 times without leaking (the knife edges really cut the gasket making it impossible to re-use).

If you have ever replaced the water pump seal on one of these, then you'll understand what I'm talking about, haha.
 
Boys and girls. I got the crankshaft back yesterday after having the new conrod installed by a local shop. They charged $150 cash, so it was a reasonable deal. The old conrod had bad pitting on the upper surface of the big end, so it was on its way out. Apparently the bearing itself looked okay, but the race of the conrod was pooched.

Also the big end pin had some grooves worn in...

I am going to post pics when I get a chance. Bike only had 100 hrs, so that's somewhat worrisome.
 
Alright, the engine is prepped for re-assembly. Used the freezer to help get the new crank bearing races onto the crankshaft. Worked pretty well.

Cold crankshaft, hot races.

The trickiest part yesterday was getting the various seals to go on straight, and to seat flatly (countershaft, both crankshaft...).
 
Alright, put the cases together with sealant... then measured the axial clearance on the crankshaft... It was only 0.25 mm, should be closer to 1 mm [ref: Bushie].

I am going to remove the flywheel-side race and remove the 0.10 mm shim. That will give me a bit more room.

Other than that, I will have to use whatever I end up with.

I measured the crank web spread... it's bang on (61.2 mm I think).

---
I used Loctite 518 as case sealant... it seems like it should work but it squishes out really thin. I stuff that was in there seemed a lot thicker and more rubbery.
 
Isn't loctite anaerobic? I.e it won't form a solid in your oil capillaries. One of the benefits of using loctite.
 

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