Tons of metallic flakes in oil: culprit?

bushmechanic · Mar 21, 2015

LOL

on a new rod build if you get the twist out before pressing it all the way together it requires far less violence

fantastic video though

KentJ · Mar 25, 2015

Any update on your findings? My drain plug looked similar after my last ride so I'm eager to see where you go with this.

Edit: I see your other post about the conn rod, so I guess that answers that.

ned37 · Mar 26, 2015

Just to confirm, you're serious, right? Because I like it.

dead serious. my favorite tool was a steel handled 4 lb brass hammer. get it close and then grab the rod close to the flywheel and smack it! after a bit of practice, you get a good feel for it.

Grandpa told me that that's what he did too

hmmm, i might BE your grandpa, what was your grandma's maiden name?

jmscrttndn · Mar 26, 2015

Hello Kent,

I haven't figured out anything yet. I suspect main bearings are going, but who knows. I am simply doing my research before I open the engine. I would like to have the parts on hand or readily available. I always run into the issue of overlooking parts when planning a job, so I have to make a temporary fix when putting things back together. This time, I am more confident that I have done my homework and have all required parts.

I will definately put a big thread up with the rebuild and put videos and everything. My intent will be to help others in my position (with no previous experience) to fix their engine without being raped by a dealer's shop rates.

KentJ said:
Any update on your findings? My drain plug looked similar after my last ride so I'm eager to see where you go with this.

Edit: I see your other post about the conn rod, so I guess that answers that.

jmscrttndn · Mar 26, 2015

Added photos to first post. Click the links for more.

bushmechanic · Mar 26, 2015

mine looked like that after 5th gear lost its hardfacing

only had about half the amount of chunks though

Kayeffess · Mar 28, 2015

jmscrttndn said:
Hello Kent,

I haven't figured out anything yet. I suspect main bearings are going, but who knows. I am simply doing my research before I open the engine. I would like to have the parts on hand or readily available. I always run into the issue of overlooking parts when planning a job, so I have to make a temporary fix when putting things back together. This time, I am more confident that I have done my homework and have all required parts.

I will definately put a big thread up with the rebuild and put videos and everything. My intent will be to help others in my position (with no previous experience) to fix their engine without being raped by a dealer's shop rates.

Oh,oh....I see the bike is up for sale on kijiji...

jmscrttndn · Mar 29, 2015

Kayeffess said:
Oh,oh....I see the bike is up for sale on kijiji...

Yeah, man, but new insurance rates are driving that. $400 per year in Ontario, $1700 per year in Winnipeg (Manitoba).
Got to get me one of those sub-500cc bikes

jmscrttndn · Apr 8, 2015

The engine is almost out. I went to remove the ?swingarm? pivot bolt, but my socket set only goes up to 18mm... I think it's a 19mm... I will go buy some more sockets soon.

I have been recording everything with a camera (GoPro) so I will compile a sort-of how-to video when I am done.

I am having a really difficult time removing the rear axle. I won't slide axially without being hit with a hammer. I got it to move about 1" axially, but then I quit for the night. Any thoughts?

jmscrttndn · Apr 8, 2015

Kayeffess said:
Oh,oh....I see the bike is up for sale on kijiji...

No longer fer sull. Kept'er. Going to spend the big bucks on insurance as a result. Oh well.

Kayeffess · Apr 8, 2015

Siezed in the wheel bearings. It's going to take some more work with the hammer.

jmscrttndn said:
The engine is almost out. I went to remove the ?swingarm? pivot bolt, but my socket set only goes up to 18mm... I think it's a 19mm... I will go buy some more sockets soon.

I have been recording everything with a camera (GoPro) so I will compile a sort-of how-to video when I am done.

I am having a really difficult time removing the rear axle. I won't slide axially without being hit with a hammer. I got it to move about 1" axially, but then I quit for the night. Any thoughts?

worstinfinland · Apr 8, 2015

Bang it like you mean it!

makazica · Apr 9, 2015

jmscrttndn said:
I am having a really difficult time removing the rear axle. I won't slide axially without being hit with a hammer. I got it to move about 1" axially, but then I quit for the night. Any thoughts?

Since you have to hit it on the thread side, make sure you don't damage the threads, I recommend you take a helper to hold something the same diameter as the axle and you hit it with something big and heavy, really hard but ONCE.

jmscrttndn · Apr 9, 2015

I left the nut on the end, albeit somewhat loose. I used that to hit... it got lightly deformed on the end dome, but affects the function in no way. I then removed the nut when I realized it was so thin and used a wood handle saw blade.

I basically held the steel thin saw blade perpendicular to the axle and hit with a hammer. Worked... but now the axle is just starting to disappear into the swingarm so I need some sort of shaft to follow it so I can keep hitting.

KentJ · Apr 9, 2015

You need some of these:
3 pc Brass Pin Punch Set | Princess Auto

I've never paid full price for anything at PA, but something similar is needed. I've had the same set for years. Brass is great because it won't damage steel parts, and if the drifts get deformed you can just file/cut it back down to shape. Good for driving out bearings etc too.

jmscrttndn · Apr 12, 2015

Alright. Problems are all sorted (in terms of getting the engine out of the frame). Engine is ready for tear down (except I don't have a stopper bolt made yet and my flywheel puller is in another town).

Will keep this updated. I have videotaped everything I have done so far. GoPro strapped to my forehead!

I will compile some videos when I actually have a chance. I have no garage, so I am working out of my piece of S*** shed. Sucks.

Might bring the engine inside to do the remainder of the work.

Kayeffess · Apr 12, 2015

I wish you had posted that yesterday. I was at mission cycle yesterday. Could have brought the puller with me.

Btw, I just use aluminum rod for drifts.

jmscrttndn · Apr 12, 2015

Darn, oh well. It's all good. I had my dad make one (machinist). I only asked for a nut cut to the thread, then I would use a standard bearing puller. He made an entire flywheel puller, so it will work too.

Kayeffess said:
I wish you had posted that yesterday. I was at mission cycle yesterday. Could have brought the puller with me.

Btw, I just use aluminum rod for drifts.

KentJ · Apr 12, 2015

I was able to pull the gears out without the crank stop bolt. I put a chunk of scrap aluminum inbetween the gears to lock them and opened them that way. I could be wrong in my approach, but I don't think the aluminum will hurt the steel gears at all.

steve · Apr 12, 2015

Al wedge has worked for me over the years. Some think it doesn't do the crank and primary shaft bearings any good, dunno.

Tons of metallic flakes in oil: culprit?

Help Support Husaberg:

bushmechanic

KentJ

ned37

Moderator

jmscrttndn

jmscrttndn

bushmechanic

Kayeffess

jmscrttndn

jmscrttndn

jmscrttndn

Kayeffess

worstinfinland

makazica

jmscrttndn

KentJ

jmscrttndn

Kayeffess

jmscrttndn

KentJ

steve

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions